Finish on Bubinga fingerboard?

[Ted Spencer]

I just finished building a Strat -type with a maple neck and Bubinga fingerboard. I was told that the Bubinga would never need a finish (beyond the sealer that Warmoth applied), but was wondering it it might be a viable option anyway, and if so, what sort of finish or oil might be appropriate (I don't want to clear-coat it, so I guess I'm thinking of some kind of oil-type thing). Are there some recommended finishing oils (or whatever) that people get good results with on these? Or should I really just leave it as Warmoth delivered it, which isn't bad of course. I have been thinking though, that a slightly darker, more consistent color, like an oil finish would produce, might be preferable.

TIA

 

[kboman]

Just give it some lemon oil when it starts to feel a bit dry, there's no reason to do anything more that I know of. Oxidation, UV from the daylight and your sweaty fingers will take of the rest! :icon_biggrin:

 

[JamesL]

I wouldn't think that an oil finish could hurt it in any way. And I think it would look super cool.

 

[Rickgrxbass]

Rickenbacker uses Bubinga on lots of fretboards, and they apply a thick gloss finish on it, looks pretty cool...

when I did my bass build a while back, I pulled all my necks off my other guitars and finished the 'boards with a couple coats (maybe 3 or 4) of 1:5 dilution of tung oil and turpentine (well, synthetic 'turpatine' anyhow), and from rosewood to bloodwood, I can say it really brings out the iridescence of the wood grain and adds a (very) slight gloss.  Really "classes it up", IMHO.  Doesn't adversely affect the feel or tone, either.

 

[Ted Spencer]

I've got a Ric 12 and the clear gloss does look great on the Bubinga fingerboard - in fact that's where I got the idea to use Bubinga on the project Strat. But I don't really want to have it that way on the Strat, and of course it would be pretty impractical to clear-coat it now that its otherwise complete.

Regarding Lemon oil, which sounds like a nice simple solution (and what I had hoped would work), are there any particular types that are or are not recommended? Obviously, it's available cheaply and generically in any hardware store. Would that kind be acceptable, or should I look for something of more specific quality?

Thanks all!

 

[Rickgrxbass]

Regarding Lemon oil, which sounds like a nice simple solution (and what I had hoped would work), are there any particular types that are or are not recommended? Obviously, it's available cheaply and generically in any hardware store. Would that kind be acceptable, or should I look for something of more specific quality?

I've used Formby's lemon oil treatment as a conditioner between string changes with pretty good results.  I'd try and stick with the "treatment" type products as opposed to "cleaner" type products, obviously enough.  Ernie Ball even has their fretboard conditioner wipes which are mostly mineral oil and orange oil, although they're a bit expensive, as are most modern wipe-based products, and don't seem to work that much better than a regular hardware store brand IMO.  Not to mention, if you use what would normally saturate a pre-moistened wipe, a 4-oz bottle will last approximately 5000 years  :laughing7:

 

[tangent]

I recommend NOW lemon essential oil, its pure lemon oil uncut with anything else..

if you want to thicken it up a bit mix a small amount of castor oil or walnut oil with it, this allows you to adjust the mixture to the specific species of wood you are using, since some of them will drink up thick oil quickly while others will not accept much oil at all regardless of how thick or thin it is (i haven't used bubinga so i'm not sure how dense/porous it is)

you can get 16oz NOW castor oil and 1oz lemon oil at whole foods for around $10 (or any other natural/health food store)

 

[Ted Spencer]

Thanks so much guys. Great to have a group like this...