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Finish color question...a little help please

dmraco

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Looking at this finish...looks like a lemon center.  Would I use orange or red on the edge.  WWTD (What Would Tonar Do)

17059_Gibson_Custom_CS-336_Figured_Iced_Tea_CS203301_1.jpg


Thanks
 
Red + Yellow = Orange. How much of each is almost infinitely variable. On that top, it was probably done all in yellow first, then some dilution of red added to the edges, which produces a reddish-orange result.

It pays to have a test piece or 3 to play with, so you can see your results and refine your mixtures/technique before you commit.
 
Cagey said:
Red + Yellow = Orange. How much of each is almost infinitely variable. On that top, it was probably done all in yellow first, then some dilution of red added to the edges, which produces a reddish-orange result.

It pays to have a test piece or 3 to play with, so you can see your results and refine your mixtures/technique before you commit.

thats what I was thinking....
 
If you use a water-based stain rather than alcohol, you get more time to play as water won't boil off at room temperature as fast as alcohol will. That allows you to rub around and fade things into each other more gradually. You can use water-based stains under solvent-based finishes as long as you give it plenty of time to dry thoroughly. You don't want any water trapped under the finish, unless your inventory of cuss words is low.

Also, if you're going to use water-based stain, wet down the surface before you start staining. That'll keep you from getting boundary marks where more or less stain gets absorbed.
 
Toner has used Lemon Yellow lately on some bodies, If you stain the raw wood (after
a 320 sand) then a few clear coats to seal the Yelow any red should remain red. If you rub the red stain on the yellow it probably will be more Orange. The Red should be suspended
in a clear to give it that transparent look.  Do samples like Cagey said.
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=4976.60
The link above should help its not the lemon though.
 
WWTD (What Would Tonar Do)
  :laughing7: :laughing7:

Well what I would do is use TransTint Lemon Yellow #6020B for the whole top and then burst it with TransTint Reddish Brown #6003. 
 
Tonar8353 said:
WWTD (What Would Tonar Do)
  :laughing7: :laughing7:

Well what I would do is use TransTint Lemon Yellow #6020B for the whole top and then burst it with TransTint Reddish Brown #6003.

Thinking now of a light or desert burst..... :dontknow:
That may be too red....
 
I don't think that guitar has any red in the top. I think it is showing red because of the picture but if you look at the bottom of the face of the guitar you will notice that it has a faded Ice Tea color. Any way that is what I see on my computer. I do know that color can look red at certain angles. 
 
Cagey said:
If you use a water-based stain rather than alcohol, you get more time to play as water won't boil off at room temperature as fast as alcohol will. That allows you to rub around and fade things into each other more gradually. You can use water-based stains under solvent-based finishes as long as you give it plenty of time to dry thoroughly. You don't want any water trapped under the finish, unless your inventory of cuss words is low.

Also, if you're going to use water-based stain, wet down the surface before you start staining. That'll keep you from getting boundary marks where more or less stain gets absorbed.

Basically are you saying you could apply water based dye, followed by nitro lacquer? I assume you cant apply nitro lacquer then water based dye then nitro lacquer?
 
Well, you'd put a sealer coat or 3 on between the dye and the nitro, but yeah. The other way around, no. Lacquer repels water. But, there's no water left once the dye is good and dry, which is why the first way works.
 
That's nice to hear, I was wondering if anything could be used as a thinner/retarder for alcohol. Thanks for the tip!
 
Cagey, explain to me the sealer coat?  In the past, I have just sealed a color with a few coats of nitro before proceeding.
 
There's a good discussion of the topic here. They're talking about fine furniture, but the points they make apply even more so to guitars.
 
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