DIY "washed black die" on quilted maple top.

RU36

Junior Member
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Greetings!
This will be my second warmoth build and I am ready to take a bit more risk on the finishing.
My last one was easy, deft rattle can clear gloss and car wax. done
Now I have this bad ass guitar that sounds great and plays killer, but looks kindda plain.

So here is the finish I am going to attempt.
washed_black.jpg

It will be a Quilted maple with washed black die.
The body wood is Basswood so I am going to make that gloss black on the back.
I may or may not attempt the natural mask binding, depending on how brave I get.

The neck will be done in the same fashion.
Maple neck with quilted maple headstock veneer.
Washed black dye on the veneer gloss black on the back of the neck and ebony on the fretboard.

Here is my plan of a attack.
Please feel free to let me know if its a disastor in the making.

First off I am going to buy the medium grade "unique choice" Quilted maple for $125
This puts the final cost of the body at just over $500.
It looks almost as good as the $225 version and its a lot less $$$ 

I was going to use this paint from stew mac for the back of the body and the neck.
3885_1lg.jpg


I was going to use this black dye also from stew mac for the top and peg veneer.
5032_2lg.jpg


And for clear coat I will be using deft clear gloss in a rattle can.
The buffing it out with one of these.
3414_1lg.jpg


The only area I am a little grey on is how to get the "Washed dye effect"
My guess is you just dilute the dye to about 50% and brush it on.
I am not sure if you would sand it afterward or not.
Does anyone have any experience doing a finish like this?

Anyone have any tips on doing the masked binding effect?
Thanks in advance for your comments and info.


 
Ok, not a pro yet - but in the middle of doing a blue dye job on flame maple...

I would not 'brush' anything!

Use the colortone tints and water, and whipe it on...

1) Make two dye solutions - one dark black, the other maybe more charcole...

2) dampen the face and sand with 320.. do this twice - this will help to keep the grain from raising...

3) Wipe on the dark black first... this works really well, and is easy to do..


4) sand back again ... there will be balck just in the vallies.. this gives the 3d look..

5) wipe on the charcole.... do not sand back..

6) do the standard clear lacquer job on top of that.... 2-3 coats of vinyal sealer, scuff sand, 6 or so clear coats (scuff between each 2 or 3) - The level sand with 800-2000 wet, then buff...

You need three grades of compound  - medium, fine and swirl.... use three different pads (one for each) and don;t mix them up... you will be sorry if you do...

Good luck.
 
Actually.... you can get the washed effect, literally by washing the area with solvent.

Personally, I'd get some Deft lacquer, dye it, apply it, then wash it back with acetone or lacquer thinner.  Some will dissolve and go into the open grain, and be wiped off the closed grain.  You'll get that washed effect.  Sand back only if places are way over dark or if you have some drips (likely, but easily sanded as they'll be very light)

When I stripped my back BFG Les Paul, the washed effect was there from stripping it.  Be sure to use a sanding block to keep everything flat.
 
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