control potentiometer prep
- Thread starter -CB-
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jackthehack
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Dremel mo'quicker...
bpmorton777
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do you guys still have to use a glob of flux to get the solder to stick?
Brian
Brian
jackthehack
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Nope, just a touch of the skinny rosin core solder...
jackthehack
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??? Aim the Dremel rotation AWAY from the center, you been back in the Drambuie?
Superbeast520
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bpmorton777 said:
Yeah on occasion I will bust out the flux, but like jack said just the skinny rosin core usually is all you need, I do sand the pots as CB is showing, ( nice pics ) and thats usually enough prep for the solder to stick, unless its a heavy piece of metal like when doing a bridge ground wire or spring plate via Strats, then I will sand heavily in all directions and use Flux, thats also a good time to have a higher watt solder Iron on hand, it will save alot of frustration and keep the work clean.
bpmorton777
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hey superbeast
are you saying that a hardtail strat bridge has the grounding wire soldered to it? i thought i could get away with just having it there and fanning out the strands of wire a bit and the pressure from the screws holding down the bridge would make good contact.
Brian
are you saying that a hardtail strat bridge has the grounding wire soldered to it? i thought i could get away with just having it there and fanning out the strands of wire a bit and the pressure from the screws holding down the bridge would make good contact.
Brian
G
guitlouie
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Hey Brian, that's how I did my hardtail and it's as quiet as can be (in the good way, I can turn it up and be loud... :laughing3
Nice shots CB. I did not get my pots from W, so I'm not sure what everyone is talking about as far as those being different, but the ones I did get (Fender brand, I think those are also CTS) were shiny clean already, I just roughed 'em up a bit with sandpaper before soldering. Soldering copper tubing back when I did heating and airconditioning work prepped me for this stuff even though it seems very different, it was all about making sure both components to be joined were equally hot and getting the solder to FLOW, not trying to just melt it on there.
Nice shots CB. I did not get my pots from W, so I'm not sure what everyone is talking about as far as those being different, but the ones I did get (Fender brand, I think those are also CTS) were shiny clean already, I just roughed 'em up a bit with sandpaper before soldering. Soldering copper tubing back when I did heating and airconditioning work prepped me for this stuff even though it seems very different, it was all about making sure both components to be joined were equally hot and getting the solder to FLOW, not trying to just melt it on there.
Superbeast520
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bpmorton777 said:
Hey Brian, that is a perfectly acceptable solution you described, I just mentioned that as an example, not necessarily as the only possiblity, some guys solder it some just fan out the wiring, both methods work fine, I just thought I would make note that it works better when soldering heavier pieces to use a higher wattage Iron and also a good time to throw on some flux, but certainly not the only way.
25 -35 watts is usually enough for soldering lighter more sensitive stuff like the electronics, but 45-75 watts would make it easier for larger block pieces of metal, but again just some general guidlines. Surely not the only way.
The thread here is about the importance of the prep work which helps to minimize the chances of a cold weld, and insures that solid contact is made so there isn't any surprises later.:icon_thumright:
