Completed Strat - First Build

[SixString]

So here's my first Warmoth, which is also my first build.  This project slowly morphed from a refinish project of my cheapo Taiwan strat, into an entirely brand new guitar.   I basically decided that after two failed attempts with getting the body paint how I wanted I would stop hesitating and just order a Warmoth showcase.  Part of me feels defeated for giving up on the original body, however there is no way that thing would play/feel/sound as good as this one!  More importantly it allowed me to work through many of those fatal newbie mistakes without risking damage to a nice guitar.  Hopefully the next finishing attempt goes with far greater success.

Anyway, here are the specs:

Body:  Swamp Ash, Top Rout, Contoured Heel, Black Gloss finish

Neck:  Birdseye Maple Back/Fretboard, 1 11/16" Nut Width, Standard Thin, SS6230 Frets (22), 10-16" Compound Radius, Black Face Dots Inlay, GraphTech Black TUSQ XL, 25-1/2 in. Scale, Clear Gloss finish

Pickups:  Fender Hot Noiseless
I was worried about the "vintage white color" (the only color they offer for some reason) contrasting harshly with the rest of the guitar, but they actually work better with the color theme than I expected (pics a bit off with color)

Tuners: Sperzel Locking

Bridge:  Fender American Modern

The only thing I'm hesitant about is the Fender "F" backplate.  I think I'd rather have a Warmoth "W" on there, so that might change down the road...

Thanks for looking!
Cheers-

 

[Tipperman]

Looks good man! I would consider getting a new bridge block if it'll fit, but that's just me. I love that pickguard and neck especially. Great choices. I think the neck plate gives it a pretty cool vibe, personally.

 

[llmtelecaster]

Nothing not to love about a straightforward strat, especially a Gilmour-inspired one. A Callaham upgraded bridge block would make the guitar sound 10 times better. Didn't think that was possible til I got one.

 

[Cagey]

Very nice! Black guitars always look so good when they're first born. I think I would have made the bridge match the rest of the hardware, but it still works.

 

[SixString]

Tipper / IIstrat, thanks for the heads up on the bridge block replacement....that's honestly something I've never looked into.

Cagey, I hear ya on matching with the rest of hardware...however I bought it before I tweaked the color theme.  
I'm always a sucker for some chrome though

 

[Nando Vallart]

Very cool!

 

[Tipperman]

SixString, check out this site: http://www.callahamguitars.com/partsstr.htm

Callaham makes great Strat and Tele parts, absolutely top-shelf stuff. The bridge block replacement will make it more stratty/give more sustain. I replaced the bridge on my old Mexican standard (And the neck, too!) with a Callaham bridge assembly. The biggest factor was the bridge block. Gave it a LOT more quack and strat tone. Definitely a worthwhile investment.

As far as the chrome bridge goes.... I'm a sucker for chrome bridges, especially when the shine starts to wear off (My sweat could burn through a bomb shelter, I tell ya!)

 

[DangerousR6]

So here's my first Warmoth, which is also my first build.  This project slowly morphed from a refinish project of my cheapo Taiwan strat, into an entirely brand new guitar.   I basically decided that after two failed attempts with getting the body paint how I wanted I would stop hesitating and just order a Warmoth showcase.  Part of me feels defeated for giving up on the original body, however there is no way that thing would play/feel/sound as good as this one!  More importantly it allowed me to work through many of those fatal newbie mistakes without risking damage to a nice guitar.  Hopefully the next finishing attempt goes with far greater success.

Anyway, here are the specs:

Body:  Swamp Ash, Top Rout, Contoured Heel, Black Gloss finish

Neck:  Birdseye Maple Back/Fretboard, 1 11/16" Nut Width, Standard Thin, SS6230 Frets (22), 10-16" Compound Radius, Black Face Dots Inlay, GraphTech Black TUSQ XL, 25-1/2 in. Scale, Clear Gloss finish

Pickups:  Fender Hot Noiseless
I was worried about the "vintage white color" (the only color they offer for some reason) contrasting harshly with the rest of the guitar, but they actually work better with the color theme than I expected (pics a bit off with color)

Tuners: Sperzel

Bridge:  Fender American Modern

The only thing I'm hesitant about is the Fender "F" backplate.  I think I'd rather have a Warmoth "W" on there, so that might change down the road...

Thanks for looking!
Cheers-

Very nice six string, I may have a "W" plate lying around... :icon_biggrin:

 

[tomroffey666]

That looks awesome! Very clean build dude. Did the pick guard come from warmoth?

 

[SixString]

That looks awesome! Very clean build dude. Did the pick guard come from warmoth?

Sure did!

 

[tomroffey666]

Sweet it looks badass!

 

[Strat Avenger]

Very cool.  :kewlpics:

 

[bagman67]

Well played, sir.  Well played.

 

[Disco Scottie]

Very cool pickguard! I'd go with a black trem to complete the look.

 

[SixString]

If I were to swap out the bridge, aren't the stud locations drilled specific to the bridge I'm using?  Or do many 2-post tremolos have the same distance between their studs and can be easily replaced? 

Just curious...

 

[Tipperman]

SixString, you can keep the studs and bridge in place. Look underneath the saddles by the Intonation screws at the back on the bridge. THere are three large screw. Unscrew these and the bridge block will come off. The Callaham bridge block will fit right in there. Shoot Bill Callaham an email or give him a call, he can tell you all about it. But you don't need to pull the studs out, which is great news.  ccasion14:

 

[SixString]

SixString, you can keep the studs and bridge in place. Look underneath the saddles by the Intonation screws at the back on the bridge. THere are three large screw. Unscrew these and the bridge block will come off. The Callaham bridge block will fit right in there. Shoot Bill Callaham an email or give him a call, he can tell you all about it. But you don't need to pull the studs out, which is great news.  ccasion14:

Thanks dude, I was curious about that too...  But I was actually referring to replacing the entire bridge (if I wanted to replace with a black one).

 

[ORCRiST]

SixString, you can keep the studs and bridge in place. Look underneath the saddles by the Intonation screws at the back on the bridge. THere are three large screw. Unscrew these and the bridge block will come off. The Callaham bridge block will fit right in there. Shoot Bill Callaham an email or give him a call, he can tell you all about it. But you don't need to pull the studs out, which is great news.  ccasion14:

Thanks dude, I was curious about that too...  But I was actually referring to replacing the entire bridge (if I wanted to replace with a black one).

Black bridge! Black bridge!! Do iiiiiiiiiiit!

ORC

 

[Cagey]

SixString, you can keep the studs and bridge in place. Look underneath the saddles by the Intonation screws at the back on the bridge. THere are three large screw. Unscrew these and the bridge block will come off. The Callaham bridge block will fit right in there. Shoot Bill Callaham an email or give him a call, he can tell you all about it. But you don't need to pull the studs out, which is great news.  ccasion14:

Thanks dude, I was curious about that too...  But I was actually referring to replacing the entire bridge (if I wanted to replace with a black one).

Changing colors isn't going to change mechanics. But, going to black is almost always an improvement <grin>

If you're going to change manufacturers or models of bridge, then you need to do some research. There is no "standard" post spacing, per se. Some are more forgiving than others, so close enough is good enough. Others, not so much. Gotta be spot-on, or the bridge won't install. Also, you have to be careful about bridges that look very similar and seem like they should work, but are machined in metric vs. SAE or imperial dimensions. For example, many of the inexpensive parts sourced from the Pacific Rim are willfully metric parts these days. By "willfully", I mean they're dimensioned that way on purpose, since almost all parts come from there anyway. But, the suppliers will make parts with SAE dimensions to satisfy ancient US traditions, while making the same parts to satisfy the rest of the world in metric sizes. Unfortunately, not all vendors make the distinction. So, even little things like the switch tips on Strat/Tele pickup selectors can be different enough that they won't mutually install.

 

[Tipperman]

You likely would, yes. Unless Fender makes that same bridge in black? Which I don't believe they do. Personally I really dig the chrome bridge. I had a guitar a while back with gold hardware but the bridges Tune-o-Matic piece was chrome. I have weird preference. Do what makes you happy with the guitar!