Clear Filler for Mahogany?

[SixString]

Any good recommendations?  I was going to use black filler, but now I'm leaning towards keeping the mahogany natural and using clear.

I only currently have neutral and black Timbermate Filler.  I believe the neutral leaves a tint once dry.  I'm going to use the black on the BK laminate.

Thanks.

 

[Cagey]

The neutral works. Be prepared to do several coats, maybe even as many as 4 or 5. Mahogany is pretty coarse-grained, so it doesn't fill easily. Also, you can get some filling action from the sealer, given enough coats and sanding between coats.

 

[SixString]

Really?  I figured it would remain some sort of tanish color and look odd against the mahogany.

And yes, I'm very much mentally prepared for the long road of filling ahead of me, no worries.

 

[Cagey]

It looks like that in the can, but it doesn't look that way applied. Soak the edge of a paper towel in it and drag that across a piece of white printer paper. You'll see it's pretty clear. If not, maybe it's a different "neutral" than the last one I used. I think I used the "Colortone" product from StewMac. I'm not seeing the can here, so I must have used it up.

Actually, I just checked the StewMac site, and they do have a "Clear" grain filler, so maybe that's what I used. I do remember it not looking clear at all, though, at least in the can. 

 

[SixString]

Right on, that's a good idea, I'll test it out tonight.

I'm still curious about any other ones people here may prefer to use....?

 

[bagman67]

I think the Timbermate might be more opaque than the Stew-Mac clear stuff.

 

[bagman67]

I've used the ebony Timbermate, and the neutral tinted with Mixol black, and found it worked well in both instances.  I did two rounds of filling on each of two bodies and got very good results on ash (ebony) and mahogany (neutral tinted with black).  I applied stain, then shellac, then Timbermate, and then Deft lacquer in both instances and am quite satisfied.  Ash was harder to work with than mahogany.

 

[Tonar8352]

You want to use transparent or clear filler not a neutral. 

The key to getting better results is to spay a coat of sealer or wash coat of finish on the surface before you fill it.  That will seal the pours of the wood and will help stop the filler from shrinking into the wood as badly as it would without the wash coat.

After you fill it the first time let it set for a couple of days because it will still shrink. Next put another filler coat on and let that set for a few more days. Now shoot a couple of coats of sealer and level sand it. If it still needs more filler give it one more fill and then repeat the sealer process.

 

[bagman67]

The Master Has Spoken.  Do it as Tonar suggests and you will find enlightenment.

 

[SixString]

Thank you Tonar.  I've read some of your other posts on the subject and was definitely planning on shooting a sealer coat prior to the fill.  But I appreciate the specified filling schedule :icon_thumright:

Any suggestions for a good clear/trans filler to use??

 

[Tonar8352]

The only one I liked to use was the old McFaddend’s, which is not longer available. I have not had to try anything different yet because I still have shop stock so I suggest you do a search for clear or transparent filler buy some and try it on a test board first.

The nice thing about using transparent filler on unstained wood is you do not have to worry about burning through into color when you are level sanding so you can sand a little more aggressively with out causing problems.

 

[SixString]

Can this stuff be tinted?

 

[Jusatele]

Best advice I see given here is about shrink and waiting several days to sand
I have found a filler needs a few days to cure before filling or it will load up the paper with some big chunks and this will gouge your surface. I will usually do about 3 coats and then let it dry 3 days, Flat sand and repeat. At this point a a lot of woods are ready to go but others are just starting. I have never done Mahogany so I will not comment on how how many coats you need to use. Just remember the quality of the prep work is what pays off when you are working in the final sanding of the finish. A great prep job and you can get that uber shine, bad prep work in the base coats and you work yourself to death getting a good surface in the finish.