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Can I add a control switch/toggle to MUSTANG control plate?

JerseyTrash

Junior Member
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Instead of having the little switches on the pick guard, could I potentially just have a volume knob and a three-way Gibson-style switch?
 
You can certainly omit the slider-switches in the plastic guard; that's no big thing.  Just choose the right option in the pickguard configurator.


If you want to mount a three-way Les Paul-style toggle on the steel control plate in place of the tone knob, you can do that too, but you will need to drill or punch out the existing hole, since the dimensions are not the same for a pot as for a three-way toggle switch (or maybe you can find a toggle with a narrower shaft, but I'd expect it to be easier to just enlarge the hole on a standard plate).
 
Another suggestion: make it into a Duo-Sonic. Same body, different routing and pickguard.
original.jpg


WD Music sells Duo-Sonic PGs: http://www.wdmusic.com/guards_guitar_fender_duosonic.html

If you do this, you get your toggle switch and don't have to sacrifice your tone knob.

 
You would have to route out the body for the toggle switch and the wiring of course, but that is a really cool way to go.

 
Agree 100%. Having the toggle switch there like the DuoSonic would be best, but I don't have the resources to route a cavity into the Mustang body to accommodate that. If you check the Warmoth site, their bodies don't have that option. Hence why I thought just putting it in place of the tone knob might be the best/easiest solve.
 
Maybe we could convince them to add that option?  :hello2:
I would definitely choose that solution with a sturdy 3-way toggle switch over the two sliding switches.
With Warmoths pickup routing options one could make a mean rock machine this way.
And I just love 24" scale length guitars!

 
What type is it? A small Dremel type thingy or something big and sturdy?
I would think it required some practice before you started up such a machine on a newly acquired guitar body. Especially if it was finished with some fancy glossy paint.

I know I would be very nervous to try something like that  :o
 
Actually, I have several, as different units are suitable for different jobs. For trem routes, pickup/switch/control cavities, I usually use the big 2.25hp Bosch unit...

822704.jpg

I also have a smaller version of the the same thing for binding work, as well as an even smaller one suitable for inlay/detail work.

As for working freshly finished guitars, I always mask them well. Sometimes, I even mask bodies that aren't going to get routed just to protect them if they're going to be handled a lot. I found a supplier of what they call "anti-mutilation" film, which is the (usually) clear stuff they put on things like computer/phone displays, car paint jobs, mirrors, etc. for shipping to keep things from getting scratched up. It's has a low-tack adhesive, so it doesn't affect the finish it's applied to or removed from. You've probably seen very thin versions of the stuff on new pickguards.

I've been using these tools for decades, but they still scare me because they're all beasties, really. Gotta watch 'em close, because you can do a helluva lotta damage in a hurry with a tool like that.
 
Thanks very much for the info, Cagey. You're a real fountain of knowledge. Cool tip about the anti-mutilation film.
Good to know all these bits of information as they might come in handy some day.
Though I'll probably do more of an assemble type of build when I get around to building my dream guitar.

 
Just to clarify, this is what I meant. I found this online, and the original owner has no idea whether or not the control plate had to be modded to fit the switch.
 

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Judging by looking at my control plate on my Super-Sonic, which is probably the same size as a Mustang plate, it looks like you have to drill the hole to make it slightly bigger to make the switch fit.

 
Yup, done this to a few Jaguars, '51s and Mustangs. Just enlarge the tone pot hole and use a short-bodied, straight toggle switch. Long-bodied switches and angled switches won't fit. Switchcraft make a very good toggle switch with a short body in either plain metal or brass, and the generic short toggles used by Epiphone will also fit and are available in chrome, gold, and black.

Just be careful with the wiring. Don't solder the wires so any part of them bends downwards or far off to one side. Those control routes can get a bit tight, so you want to keep the wiring running pretty directly.

Also, I suggest you buy at least two control plates, because if you've never enlarged a hole in one before, you will scratch up your first attempt. Do use a proper drill press, if you have access to one.
 
Also, I suggest you buy at least two control plates, because if you've never enlarged a hole in one before, you will scratch up your first attempt. Do use a proper drill press, if you have access to one.

Wouldn't i be possible to use a metal file to make the hole the proper dimension? A bit more work perhaps, but less prone for it to scratch up.  ???

 
Yeah, you could just file it, but it'll take much longer, it'll be harder to get an even edge to it, and you'll have to endure the horrible noise for longer!
 
True, the noise can be absolutely horrible ...  :tard: ("The bells, the bells ..." 1:27)

[youtube]-gU7XXzyT6k?t=1m25s[/youtube]
 
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