Boatneck

[spauldingrules]

Got a warmoth boatneck tele and standard thin strat.  MAN - it's hard to go from the tele to the strat!  It feels like a toy!  Anyway, I guess I'd like something in between.  Can I just sand down a boatneck profile neck with some heavy grit sandpaper?  Is this feasible?  Or do I need some more heavy-duty techniques?

I'd be buying a new unfinished neck, btw, and doing it to that.

 

[stratplayer1]

You could just order a different neck profile, warmoth has several ones other than standard thin and boatneck, several are between them.

Heres a link http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/necks.cfm?fuseaction=back_profiles

 

[RobR]

Changing the neck profile is just begging the neck to do all kinda of fun things... like twist and warp.... sell it and get a new neck... really...

 

[Nando Vallart]

Yes, you can change the thickness of the neck sanding it down, but you'll lose the guarantee from Warmoth and, if you don't know how to work and how much to sand, a neck too :laughing7:

 

[rahimiiii]

What I did was use a wood rasp to file off the very tip of the boatneck contour. If you look at the neck you will notice that a boatneck has a slight V shape to it, just file off about 1/16 at a time and measure until you like it. Measure the standard thin and find somewhere in between. I shaped my boatneck koa neck to match a SRV contour and now it feels much better. After you got to where you want (leave a little after rasping, you still need to smooth it out) use sandpaper to round everything out. If you want a SRV contour you take off more from the treble side of the neck and make the crown of the round off a little bit to the bass side.

 

[SkuttleFunk]

a couple things you must know before you start shaving away at your neck:

* Trussrod *
  - what kind is it (dual action in a channel parallel to the bottom face of the fretboard, or arched rod like a vintage Fender)?
  - how much wood is there between the bottom of the channel and the back of the neck
  - what is the minimum thickness this type of trussrod requires to safely operate

* Reinforcement bars *
  - does the neck have them
  - where are they located
  - how deep are they

once you absolutely know these things then you can begin to assess if your neck can be modified to your liking, or if the internal structure will prohibit you from making your preferred modifications. if you have room to make the mods, continue ...


you'll need a few tools:
- contour gauge (can be anything from stiff paper to a dedicate contour gauge pin tool)
- dial calipers
- spokeshave
- sharp wood rasp
- sanding board
- various grits of snadpaper
- long straight edge
- cabinet scraper (and associated sharpening tools)

let me say that hand carving a neck contour is one of the most satisfying parts of building an instrument from rough materials. and let me say that one small careless act (or more correctly - too much ambition for your woodworking skill level) can turn your valuable neck into a significantly less valuable burnable. practice your carving on scrap wood until you have a solid feel for properly using the tools you need to work this endeavour.

it is also best to have a neck that you want to duplicate close by. with this you can measure the contour at key fret locations so you know you're morphing the rear contour into something playable and not something worthy of a low budget Frakenstein movie


proceed slowly and plan to take the wood off in super thin (almost transparent) whisps with each stroke of your spokeshave and cabinet scraper. use the straight edge to ensure a uniform taper that is not plagued by low spots in the middle of the neck (where it's easiest to double sand/scrape/scalp)


all the best,

R

 

[kreig]

Changing the neck profile is just begging the neck to do all kinda of fun things... like twist and warp.... sell it and get a new neck... really...

Ditto

 

[SkuttleFunk]

Changing the neck profile is just begging the neck to do all kinda of fun things... like twist and warp.... sell it and get a new neck... really...

Ditto

ummmm ... you guys do realize that necks are carved from a larger piece of wood, right?  :icon_jokercolor:

if the wood was properly seasoned and grain oriented prior to original fabrication of the neck AND the carving modification job is worked correctly - there should be no issues with a neck twisting/warping


it all comes down to what I outlined in my previous post

all the best,

R

 

[Nando Vallart]

Skuttle said everything that needed to be said...
Just add that I said "yes you can" because I supposed that the inner of all warmoth necks are the same in their category (a fatback Pro the same inside as a wizard Pro)... if it's true, than you can make it untill Wizard thin... if is different from each back contours, than you should X-ray it

 

[SkuttleFunk]

I'm with you NT. for a good review of the trussrod design types check out this Warmoth link

http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/necks.cfm?fuseaction=truss_rods

Vintage trussrod

Dual action trussrod

at a first glance, it "would appear" that there is more wood available for shaving away with a dual action trussrod. unless you know the physical measurements, proceed at your own risk

all the best,

R

 

[-CB-]

I'm guessing that the neck profile is made, allowing the wood to do its thing, BEFORE the neck is final cut (milled?) for the fretboard.  That would allow any heave-ho to occur, and be corrected as the neck continued its formation.

 

[kreig]

But SkuttleFunk .... I'm a LAZY Guitar builder . . . I got tired just at reading your plan of action, let alone actually , physically doin it . It TOTALLY cuts into my Power Naps . It might have been fun when I was younger, thinner . I'm so close to retirement as it is. :icon_tongue:

I seriously appreciate you offering your input though . . .now if you'll excuse me , I have a date with my Laz-e-boy recliner. :laughing8:

I'm up for watching you do it.

 

[SkuttleFunk]

:laughing3:

R