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Blackening recessed trem pocket

DocNrock

Master Member
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Quick easy question for you finishing gurus out there.

I bought a finished showcase body and it just arrived.  I had it routed for a recessed floyd trem.  Not unsurprisingly, the recessed route is bare wood.  Would a thin layer of black paint followed by some sort of sealant be sufficient for this?  Any other recommendations?
 
I have done exactly what your asking, applied a thin layer of black paint to the bare wood in the recessed area.

It really looks good
 
willyk said:
What sort of wood and what sort of finish?

The reason I asked was, I was going to suggest black stain to give a matt, unobtrusive look to the cavity. No point in putting sealer over anything. You might want it underneath to stop possible bleeding into the finish but I doubt it.
 
willyk said:
willyk said:
What sort of wood and what sort of finish?

The reason I asked was, I was going to suggest black stain to give a matt, unobtrusive look to the cavity. No point in putting sealer over anything. You might want it underneath to stop possible bleeding into the finish but I doubt it.

Sorry, I misunderstood your question.  It is an alder body with a wild maple top.  The finish is a black cherry sunburst.  What you mention is what I am looking for.  I want a matte appearance in the recess.  The upper part of the route will also have black felt placed to protect the underlying wood from whammy mahem. :party07:
 
well, you could do what ibanez does and stick some thin foam in there. matte and cushiony!  :icon_biggrin:
 
marker_fine_black.jpg
    :party07:
 
I'm guessing your sealer question was because you want to know if you need to have a top coat that protects the wood from the elements.  I can't answer the question, but from some of the responses it looks like you may have been misunderstood, or the answer is an implicit no :)  Given the amount of wood that is exposed by a recessed Floyd, I can see why you would be concerned. 
 
chuck7 said:
I'm guessing your sealer question was because you want to know if you need to have a top coat that protects the wood from the elements.  I can't answer the question, but from some of the responses it looks like you may have been misunderstood, or the answer is an implicit no :)  Given the amount of wood that is exposed by a recessed Floyd, I can see why you would be concerned. 


Bingo!  Perhaps I should have been more explicit.
 
A while back I put a recess route on a guitar with a floyd that I had laying around to try and see if I could get some additional up-pull range on the whammy.   I used some leftover shielding paint that i had to cover up the bare wood.   It seemed to do the trick, and gave a nice matte black finish that's held up pretty well.   Too bad the routing itself was sloppy as hell....my dremel tool skills are pathetic. 
 
Jmohill said:
A while back I put a recess route on a guitar with a floyd that I had laying around to try and see if I could get some additional up-pull range on the whammy.   I used some leftover shielding paint that i had to cover up the bare wood.   It seemed to do the trick, and gave a nice matte black finish that's held up pretty well.   Too bad the routing itself was sloppy as hell....my dremel tool skills are pathetic. 

I couldn't imagine cutting a rout with a dremel without a template or plunge stop would be very neat, I'd almost be more tempted to use a hammer and chisel, but something about taking a hammer anywhere near a guitar body is a little scary...
 
Thanks for all your input.  With your input, I think I figured it out.  I decided to coat the bare wood with a few coats of Minwax polycrylic just to seal the wood and keep the humidity out.  The polycrylic should also keep the flat black enamel from soaking into the maple top, as well (didn't want a black burst around my trem).  Finally, regarding the flat black, Testors to the rescue!

I also managed to find some thin black dense foam to protect the underlying wood from the string lock screws.

Cool, that problem is solved.
 
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