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Baritone Bridge Pickup

+1 on that. When you start with a 7-string it seems like pumping the bass up on your amp is the right thing to do, but you're almost always better off dialing bass back and pushing the mids up. The further into the standard chuggy-chuggy 7-string playing you get, the more the bass needs to go down and the mids up. My E Standard classic blues tone and my Drop A 7-string goth metal tone have almost the same EQ, just with the gain in different places!

I've been using 7-strings for many years now and I've gotten to the point where I've incorporated it into my regular rock, pop and blues playing, as well as the obvious metal. I'll say that low output pickups do work, and in fact are ideal—high output pickups lose too much clarity, hence why active pickups are based on low output winds—but you do need an appropriate amplifier and you have to set everything up in a way which seems a bit counterintuitive.

You're using an Axe FX, right? Brilliant. Solid state/modelling solves many problems for low tunings and extended scale guitars. Your pickup output basically doesn't matter and the low end through to the mids is all naturally that bit more controlled. The Line 6 HD147 and Vetta II, a decade old each and from a much-maligned brand, are still considered to be top-class amps when it comes to 7- and 8-strings because solid state modelling amps sort everything out for you.

If your Axe FX is the first version, try the JCM900 patch. If it's the second version, try the JVM410 Orange patch. JVM orange is basically a JCM800 with a built-in clean boost on the second or third gain stage, and to say it is tight and has more distortion than you'll ever need would be an understatement. JCM900 is much the same case, just very slightly lower in gain. Either way, try setting the bass at half, mids about two thirds or three quarters—depends on your speakers—and treble to taste. If you're using virtual speakers, try going for the kind of curve a T75 has; slack off the mids a touch, extend the lowest and highest extremes. Keep things like resonance, depth and presence around the halfway mark. Set gain to wherever it gets you the level of distortion you want. Remember that the lower you tune, the less gain you actually need; it takes a lot less for a 7-string to sound heavy than a 6-string. On my modelling system as well as my real JVM, I have the gain set just a tiny, tiny fraction beyond 5 for metal and roll it back to about 3.5 for rock/pop, and my 7-strings' pickups have output about on par with an overwound PAF humbucker.

If you find that's still not giving you a very clear 7th string with distortion, I'd lower the pickup a tiny bit, consider using a very slightly heavier 7th string and simply reduce the bass by a notch again. Putting an virtual/graphic EQ in front of the amp, with a treble boost, can also help, though obviously this can make your 1st and 2nd strings a bit piercing, too. If you go that route then you should actually raise the pickup very slightly on the side of the highest strings. It's very common for 7- and 8-string players to have their pickups set high on the high string side and low on the side of the lower strings.

If you do ever want to go the common scooped mids route, just use the graphic EQ options to add a mid scoop after the power amp section. This is the joy of using a modelling system, most of them have these options and the Axe FX's is a very good one. Keeping the mids up on the amp section and scooping the mids later gives you better-defined distortion with a low tuning or extended range guitar than just scooping the mids out at the amp section.

Remember, you've got the most powerful and flexible tone-shaping tool in your hands, and the PAF7 pickups are about as even as you can get for 7-string without going to active pickups. You just have to throw away everything you thought you knew about EQing an amp and choosing speakers.

The only other tip is consider replacing the screw poles in the bridge PAF7 with hex poles, at least under the wound strings. Hex poles give a slightly 'sharper' response. This is especially handy if you do, for whatever reason, end up raising the pickup. It's why most high-output 7-string pickups come with two rows of hex pole as standard.
 
Thanks for the tip on the pole pieces, I'll keep that in mind. Definitely not into the whole chugging thing, was basically looking for tight bottom end, just like I get on my six but with the ability to hit a few lower notes.

By the way, the Fractal (at least the newer ones) behave exactly as you'd expect when you reduce pickup output or roll down the volume. They clean right up just like a tube amp. I definitely do understand the behavior you're talking about with solid state amps or cheap modelers, but the Axe Fx is in a totally different league.
 
Oh no, I know, I use the Axe FX II myself. Point isn't about cleaning up with the volume control, it's more that even if you have a weak signal from a low output pickup, there are so many options with these systems that you can always make up the gain to wherever you need it. Similarly you can always get it running clean no matter how high your output is. I can't even remember the last time I touched my guitars' volume controls, it's easier to just stomp through to a different patch!

And yeah, the same thing applies for getting 6-string-style response from a 7-string. Low bass, up the mids, rethink your whole approach. This is why the 'PAF7' uses a ceramic magnet and not an alnico II, III or IV like you'd expect in a pickup with 'PAF' in the name; you've got to go in a different direction to get the same result. Even if you're not doing chuggy stuff, you still can't treat a 7-string like it's a 6 and expect the 7th string to sound good.

I will re-stress that when it comes to tightness, the right kind of speaker and using a heavier string helps immensely. Even if you use the Axe FX speaker modelling direct to monitoring, you want to make sure you have a suitable speaker sound dialed in. I've tried a bunch and for 7-strings, regardless of the style of music I'm playing, the only speakers I trust are T75s or models of T75s. Nothing else seems to keep the 7th string clear enough. For strings, I use plain old .010 sets for my 6-string guitars and the first 6 strings of my 7-strings, but the 7th string is taken from a .0115 set because anything lighter is going to be too slack and flub uncontrollably. I don't like heavy strings, but when it comes to that 7th, there's really not much choice.

Lastly, think about how you're picking, too. Hitting a G on the 7th string is not the same as playing a G on the 6th. You're picking against a thicker string with lower tension—unless you use a really heavy string—and significantly further up the neck. It's always going to have a rounder tone if you pick it the same. I switch to a slightly thinner pick when I use a 7-string and it's good to practice picking the 7th string lighter than you usually pick the others. It really helps control the booming.

If you do want to just plug your guitar in and play without retooling everything, so you can keep the same settings for your 6- and 7-strings, I highly recommend switching to active pickups. They're the only thing that properly compensates for the 7th string. Take a look at EMG's X-series and 57 and 66 pickups. The 'X' versions of their regular 7-string pickups basically adds dynamic headroom so they're not compressed like normal active pickups, and the 57 and 66 models have the same EQ balance as things like the PAF7 but with a bit more output at the bridge and a clearer 7th string. With those you can switch between your 7 and your passive 6-strings without having to change your settings or play style. Does mean some hefty rewiring of the guitar, of course, and sadly they're not cheap, either.
 
The EMG 57/66 set for the 7 is probably the best active options right now.  I've been quite impressed with what I've heard so far, and I'm a die hard passives guy.
 
Thanks again for the opinions.  I'll play around with the different cab models and see what I come up with (I run the Axe through monitors).

My guitar is an RGD2127Z, which I bought specifically because its an extended scale (26.5").  I wanted more string tension for the exact reasons you state, without going to insanely heavy strings.  I use sort of a custom set with the 7th string (which is tuned to A) as a .062
 
If you're tuning the Low B down to A, you definitely want to tighten up that low end, maybe even back off of the gain just a tad, which will actually make it sound a bit more forward.

I tend to favor bridge pickups that are relatively flat eq wise, but either scooped or favor a tad more treble on the neck.  So long as I get some quack out of the neck and it doesn't sound like a tone knob rolled back to one, I can get what I need out of a lot of neck pickups, but I do have a sweet spot that I favor.
 
Another thing that makes a world of difference in tightening up is tuning to C or even C#.  I do it primarily for vocal reasons, but it can't hurt staying out of the bass player's way or tightening up.
 
This thread has been good for me.  Inspiration has hit and so I am going to take a chance and see if it works.  Tony, thanks again for the GFS heads up.  I ordered the Nashvilles for both the neck and bridge, but there is an overall change of plan:  Switching to a Jaguar body with simplified electronics and a TOM Bridge.  Beefy body with good chimey pickups. Hoping it's a good combo for a baritone.
 
Perry Combover said:
...there is an overall change of plan:  Switching to a Jaguar body with simplified electronics and a TOM Bridge.

Excellent! The long neck with the longer body is gonna go together well aesthetically, it's a good body for heavier strings, and eliminating that cruel joke of a standard Jag vibrato/bridge combo and the traditional Rube Goldberg control setup is just what that design needs to make it great.
 
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