Anybody ever get a custom bridge route ?

[Toulouse_Tuhles]

My last guitar is well under way, so its time to think about the terminal project - a bass.
The idea was for a companion instrument to the guitar, so an ash body, 51 shape, with a goncalo jbass size neck with a tele headstock. 

The reason for the custom route is the bridge - I'd like to use the Fender American bridge, which was a 7 hole bridge. Three for body attachment, and 4 for string through.  You can string thru the body, or string it at the bridge for anchoring.
I see Warmoth doesn't really offer that as any sort of option.... hence the custom hole placement.  Any thoughts?

 

[Cagey]

You can use the bridge itself as a template. Locate the bridge where it needs to be and drill the mounting holes. Use those to mount it, then use the bridge again as a template for the string holes. Don't try to drill those all the way through - the hole is unlikely to be straight if you do - just go down 3/4" or so. You're going to meet those holes again from the other side. Then, you'll need to make a "pin locator" to mount on your drill press, and use that to locate the body so you can finish the holes from the back, and drill the ferrule relief as well. I thought I'd done a photo series on the process, but I can't find it now, so here's a video that should be helpful...

[youtube]Tn_VxSDEVmU[/youtube]​

 

[Toulouse_Tuhles]

Cagey, its ME....I know how to do it myself, have done it, just dont have access to a drill press nomo' .  And I'm a stickler for squared up holes!  All the good stuff, and most of the not good stuff got "aquisitioned" by the ex... y'know how that goes.

 

[Cagey]

Ah, ok. Well, if you don't have the tools or access to them, you may have to either send the body out to someone who does, or select a bridge that Warmoth does accommodate, but past that...? I'm not familiar enough with bass bridges to know of something else in the aftermarket that will match up to what Warmoth already offers. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

 

[Toulouse_Tuhles]

I heard back from Warmoth.  They do that route (or drill, rather).  Same as Badass III bridge, so all's well

 

[DangerousR6]

You can use the bridge itself as a template. Locate the bridge where it needs to be and drill the mounting holes. Use those to mount it, then use the bridge again as a template for the string holes. Don't try to drill those all the way through - the hole is unlikely to be straight if you do - just go down 3/4" or so. You're going to meet those holes again from the other side. Then, you'll need to make a "pin locator" to mount on your drill press, and use that to locate the body so you can finish the holes from the back, and drill the ferrule relief as well. I thought I'd done a photo series on the process, but I can't find it now, so here's a video that should be helpful...

[youtube]Tn_VxSDEVmU[/youtube]​

While this does seem plausible, if you don't indicate the pin block to the drill chuck you can end up with holes that don't line up. With today's tools it would just be as efficient to drill the holes all the way thru, we're only talking about a body of wood an 1.750 thick. It's unlikely in a drill press that the bit will drift off enough to be detrimental...

 

[Cagey]

While it's true that "bit drift" is not a constant, it happens often enough that it's worth guarding against. Besides, being able to center up the ferrule relief makes the pin jig worthwhile anyway, so why tempt fate? It's an easy thing to make/do, so it's no hardship to follow the scheme. Although, as it has been  pointed out, you do need the tools to do it.

 

[DangerousR6]

While it's true that "bit drift" is not a constant, it happens often enough that it's worth guarding against. Besides, being able to center up the ferrule relief makes the pin jig worthwhile anyway, so why tempt fate? It's an easy thing to make/do, so it's no hardship to follow the scheme. Although, as it has been  pointed out, you do need the tools to do it.

True, but as I said, the key is to center the drill chuck dead nut to the pin in order to have a "true" alignment. But in the end, the string diameter is minute to the size of the hole being drilled, so the variance in the hole ultimately wouldn't infringe on the string position...

 

[Cagey]

I'm not sure it's string position that's the big worry. It's the possible interference between the entry/exit points of the string holes. If they're not aligned well, re-stringing can be a pain in the shorts as the string keeps hitting off-center on the far side, where it needs to thread through a bridge plate hole or saddle.

 

[Toulouse_Tuhles]

The string thru holes are pretty tolerant, and the whole alignment of the bridge is more or less tolerant, as there is lots of adjustment.  Not that it shouldn't be dead nuts on the money, but a small error, say 1/32, should be dang near unnoticed - on THIS bridge design.
Bridge will be in my hands on Tuesday, so.... time to get the terminal project underway.

 

[DangerousR6]

The string thru holes are pretty tolerant, and the whole alignment of the bridge is more or less tolerant, as there is lots of adjustment.  Not that it shouldn't be dead nuts on the money, but a small error, say 1/32, should be dang near unnoticed - on THIS bridge design.
Bridge will be in my hands on Tuesday, so.... time to get the terminal project underway.

I would assume so, me personally If I were drilling with a drill press or mill in my case, I'd just drill straight thru and not to worry with it. :dontknow:

 

[Toulouse_Tuhles]

That would be the plan, use the thru holes be the "spot" for the string ferrules.  Tele ferrules are often a little wonky anyway.  Fortunately... its a standard "route" (drill) for Warmoth, so I'll just have them do it.