Advice on Attempting Hentor Replica

[AlternateNosePicking]

Makes sense.  That Vol knob looks extremely close to the bridge.  I'd be interested to know the best way to route such a path while preserving the finish.  Easier to do prior to finishing the body.

It is close and today I'm going to see about swapping it with the push switch below it. If that doesn't work, I'll have to relocate it completely.

I think the swap you propose makes more sense. I like the idea of the selector switching being where its located on the Hentor, simply because its easier to look down and see the current position.  I often watch people play through solos, and their hand frequently flashes down to the selector to change it.  I think I would have a difficult time nailing that move.  My PRS has a rotary switch to change pickups, which is practically impossible to do quickly.

Last time I routed a finished body, I used a drill press with a wood drill that scores around the cut cleanly. Not one of those flat ones, more like a hand auger bit in the photo below but without the screw threads on the center guide or the square shank. It didn't chip or anything but I didn't have a router then. Not sure which way is best if I do it with this one. Probably just careful, slow cutting with a router is best.

Yeah, new router bit is a small price to pay for a clean cut. I have a router and a router table, though I think the table will be fairly useless. I may try to build a jig to accommodate a straight route.  At least that way, I can test the route several times before cutting the guitar.  I can envision myself royally screwing that up, and even if it was hidden by the pick guard, it would forever annoy me.

By the way, any idea what the lead time usually is on custom Warmoth parts? I figure I need to buy the Bill and Becky L500 first.  I've read that their backorder delays are the stuff of legend.

 

[pabloman]

I went with a nft Floyd and locking tuners. This gives the Floyd look with even more stability than a Wilkinson. Ya gotta keep the toggle, even if it's for aesthetics. Also the flipped over input jack is a must. This is such a cool guitar to build. :headbang1:

 

[Cagey]

Warmoth's lead times vary.

Hardware Orders Ships in approx 2-3 business days (M-F)
Pickguard Orders Ships in approx 3-4 business days (M-F)
Showcase Items not getting paint Ships in approx 5-6 business days (M-F)
Showcase Items getting paint Ships in approx 4-5 weeks
Build to Order Items not getting paint Ships in approx 4-5 weeks
Build to Order Items getting paint Ships in approx 8-10 weeks

You're right, Bill & Becky's lead times are legendary. I just got a set of microcoils in last week that were ordered in November, and I'm still waiting on another set ordered a week or so after that. I did get a set of Tele microcoils that were supposedly "in stock" in only 3 weeks. A pair of L500XL last year took about 6 or 7 weeks. So, if you think you might want to use anything from them, order it RFN.

 

[AlternateNosePicking]

I went with a nft Floyd and locking tuners. This gives the Floyd look with even more stability than a Wilkinson. Ya gotta keep the toggle, even if it's for aesthetics. Also the flipped over input jack is a must. This is such a cool guitar to build. :headbang1:

Toggle is non-negotiable. That's going in even if I have to dig out the route with a spoon.

Flipped over input jack?  That never even occurred to me!  Is that in a pic somewhere?

 

[bagman67]

Rather than use an auger bit, it sounds like you might be referring to a Forstner bit.  There's a super-gonzo set of 'em at Harbor Freight for only USD$38.


http://www.harborfreight.com/16-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-forstner-bit-set-39814.html


If you don't intend to make a career out of woodworking with 'em, they'll probably suffice for the job.  If you just want a single, Rockler, Woodcraft, and other woodworking specialty suppliers will have'em.

 

[AlternateNosePicking]

Warmoth's lead times vary.

Hardware Orders Ships in approx 2-3 business days (M-F)
Pickguard Orders Ships in approx 3-4 business days (M-F)
Showcase Items not getting paint Ships in approx 5-6 business days (M-F)
Showcase Items getting paint Ships in approx 4-5 weeks
Build to Order Items not getting paint Ships in approx 4-5 weeks
Build to Order Items getting paint Ships in approx 8-10 weeks

You're right, Bill & Becky's lead times are legendary. I just got a set of microcoils in last week that were ordered in November, and I'm still waiting on another set ordered a week or so after that. I did get a set of Tele microcoils that were supposedly "in stock" in only 3 weeks. A pair of L500XL last year took about 6 or 7 weeks. So, if you think you might want to use anything from them, order it RFN.

Thanks for the the schedule there.  Honestly, are my ears good enough to tell the difference between a Bill Lawrence USA L500L and a B&B L500L? Especially if I'm looking at 2-3 months delay?  I would think that if you're in a such a constant state of backorder, you'd raise your prices to ramp up inventory, decrease your total customers, make more per unit, and deliver better customer service.  I respect small handmade operations that try to keep prices low. And if you're realistic with customers, they'll accept the wait.  It's when you just never know when it will show up and you can't get someone to tell you that you begin to regret your purchase.  I better pull the trigger on the L500 now so I can play this guitar at my company's annual Christmas party this year. lol.

 

[Cagey]

Thanks for the the schedule there.  Honestly, are my ears good enough to tell the difference between a Bill Lawrence USA L500L and a B&B L500L? Especially if I'm looking at 2-3 months delay? 

I don't know, not having tried to find out myself.

There's always been some controversy regarding those two sources that I won't go into here, but the general consensus seems to have always been that B&B deserve the business for a number of reasons, so people tolerate their quirks.

I would think that if you're in a such a constant state of backorder, you'd raise your prices to ramp up inventory, decrease your total customers, make more per unit, and deliver better customer service.  I respect small handmade operations that try to keep prices low. And if you're realistic with customers, they'll accept the wait.  It's when you just never know when it will show up and you can't get someone to tell you that you begin to regret your purchase. 

Yeah, I know. Been saying the same thing for a while now.

 

[pabloman]

Here's a few pics where you can see the jack. It's visible in the original post as well.  :headbang:

 

[rgand]

Makes sense.  That Vol knob looks extremely close to the bridge.  I'd be interested to know the best way to route such a path while preserving the finish.  Easier to do prior to finishing the body.

It is close and today I'm going to see about swapping it with the push switch below it. If that doesn't work, I'll have to relocate it completely.

I think the swap you propose makes more sense. I like the idea of the selector switching being where its located on the Hentor, simply because its easier to look down and see the current position.  I often watch people play through solos, and their hand frequently flashes down to the selector to change it.  I think I would have a difficult time nailing that move.  My PRS has a rotary switch to change pickups, which is practically impossible to do quickly.

The swap went easily. Yeah, it's out of the way, now. See the pic below. The other switch is so short, it isn't a factor. That location is the original one for a Strat. This is my first Strat and I don't see how anyone can play one with the control there. Eventually, I may still move the selector but that will happen some time in the future.

Rather than use an auger bit, it sounds like you might be referring to a Forstner bit.

It's not a Forstner, it's actually an auger made for an electric drill. It's most likely from some time in the '50s.

 

[rgand]

Also the flipped over input jack is a must. This is such a cool guitar to build. :headbang1:

That flipped over jack is a great idea. I can see why he did it. Agreed, this is a cool guitar to build.

 

[stratamania]

Even though the recessed plate is flipped, the guitar lead seems to enter the guitar in the same direction as a standard one. At least as I'm looking at it or am I missing something ?

 

[AlternateNosePicking]

Makes sense.  That Vol knob looks extremely close to the bridge.  I'd be interested to know the best way to route such a path while preserving the finish.  Easier to do prior to finishing the body.

It is close and today I'm going to see about swapping it with the push switch below it. If that doesn't work, I'll have to relocate it completely.

I think the swap you propose makes more sense. I like the idea of the selector switching being where its located on the Hentor, simply because its easier to look down and see the current position.  I often watch people play through solos, and their hand frequently flashes down to the selector to change it.  I think I would have a difficult time nailing that move.  My PRS has a rotary switch to change pickups, which is practically impossible to do quickly.

The swap went easily. Yeah, it's out of the way, now. See the pic below. The other switch is so short, it isn't a factor. That location is the original one for a Strat. This is my first Strat and I don't see how anyone can play one with the control there. Eventually, I may still move the selector but that will happen some time in the future.

Rather than use an auger bit, it sounds like you might be referring to a Forstner bit.

It's not a Forstner, it's actually an auger made for an electric drill. It's most likely from some time in the '50s.

That looks much more comfortable. Now you have a start with tele knob alignment.  :laughing7:

 

[AlternateNosePicking]

Even though the recessed plate is flipped, the guitar lead seems to enter the guitar in the same direction as a standard one. At least as I'm looking at it or am I missing something ?

Correct.  I never noticed it until it was mentioned. The plate does a "barrel roll", not a "flat spin" if you will, so the 1/4 inch plug still enters the jack from the same direction.  Cool idea!

 

[AlternateNosePicking]

For anyone ever interested in the pickup wiring, here's a shot a found of Freddy's wiring diagram.

 

[rgand]

Correct.  I never noticed it until it was mentioned. The plate does a "barrel roll", not a "flat spin" if you will, so the 1/4 inch plug still enters the jack from the same direction.  Cool idea!

I just tried it. Mine has a little gap into the cavity on the side but not enough to notice, especially on a black guitar. It'll stay that way because it just made the plug WAY easier to get hold of. It doesn't stick up any farther than one of the control knobs, either. What a good idea.

 

[AlternateNosePicking]

Correct.  I never noticed it until it was mentioned. The plate does a "barrel roll", not a "flat spin" if you will, so the 1/4 inch plug still enters the jack from the same direction.  Cool idea!

I just tried it. Mine has a little gap into the cavity on the side but not enough to notice, especially on a black guitar. It'll stay that way because it just made the plug WAY easier to get hold of. It doesn't stick up any farther than one of the control knobs, either. What a good idea.

Excellent! Ugh, waiting 8 to 10 weeks for the parts is going to be murder.  I'm assuming this stuff fits together with CNC precision?

 

[Cagey]

I'm assuming this stuff fits together with CNC precision?

Yes. Where you'll notice it most is at the neck to pocket joint, which is almost a press-fit. You may be able to pick the guitar up by the neck without any screws holding it to the body (although, I wouldn't suggest testing that - if the body falls off, it'll ruin your day). At install time, you'll want to push the neck down into the pocket, rather than slide it in any other way.

 

[AlternateNosePicking]

I'm assuming this stuff fits together with CNC precision?

Yes. Where you'll notice it most is at the neck to pocket joint, which is almost a press-fit. You may be able to pick the guitar up by the neck without any screws holding it to the body (although, I wouldn't suggest testing that - if the body falls off, it'll ruin your day). At install time, you'll want to push the neck down into the pocket, rather than slide it in any other way.

I'm starting to wonder why I'd ever buy a Strat off the shelf.  At this price, I'm able to get exactly what I want.  On the other side, how cheaply made are squires that they're moved for $200?  Sorry, this is my first deviation from PRS, where large sums of money go to die.  :icon_scratch:

 

[rgand]

I'm assuming this stuff fits together with CNC precision?

Yes. Where you'll notice it most is at the neck to pocket joint, which is almost a press-fit. You may be able to pick the guitar up by the neck without any screws holding it to the body (although, I wouldn't suggest testing that - if the body falls off, it'll ruin your day). At install time, you'll want to push the neck down into the pocket, rather than slide it in any other way.

I'm starting to wonder why I'd ever buy a Strat off the shelf.  At this price, I'm able to get exactly what I want.  On the other side, how cheaply made are squires that they're moved for $200?  Sorry, this is my first deviation from PRS, where large sums of money go to die.  :icon_scratch:

The electronics in my Squier was junk and the neck was worn out but did fit snugly into the pocket. It was always in the correct alignment but needed replacing, tuners and all. I bought it because it had a good body and wasn't made from plywood or basswood. The quality is OK overall but then I replaced everything except the output jack and bridge. Now my $85 Squier is a truly great guitar. The next one will be Warmoth all the way. I'm with you, no more off-the-shelf axes.

 

[AlternateNosePicking]

Looking at pickups, and the build calls for two DiMarzio FS-1 pickups and an L500.  Can someone explain to me the rationale behind putting two identical pickups on a guitar and then switching between them?