5 string bass pickup ideas

[Patrick from Davis]

I am kicking around bass build ideas and there is something that I am having trouble with.  I want to have a passive P-Bass pickup, but am not sure about the routes or five string options for P-Bass style sounds.  The look of the pick up is not the major factor, I just want the sound.  I keep hearing about the Nordstrands, but Warmoth doesn't offer a 5 string P bass route.  Is there another that has the same sound characteristics?  This is not really that big of a deal, I will not be ready to do anything for a while, but it has frustrated me that the P-Bass pick up route is not available.  I just want to know what options there are.  Thanks ahead of time.
Patrick

 

[Wyliee]

5 string P bass pickup rout is the same size as a 4 string.  No problems there.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

Well that was too easy.
Patrick

 

[ironfist]

Yep, that's what I did.  It's not an option listed on their website, but Warmoth with happily do a P-bass pickup route on a 5 string body for no extra charge.  I called up and ordered a Deluxe V Precision style body off the Showcase and had them do a single split P route with holes for vol/tone/jack.  I plan on using a Bill Lawrence P-46 (or rather Wilde P-46, now that Willi Stich seems to have grown tired of fighting BL USA for the naming rights).

 

[Patrick from Davis]

Another question that falls under this heading...  I called and asked about having the Musicman pickup route in the neck position, and that is possible, Yay!  Next, my inner three year old has almost totally decided on the Nordstrand MM5.3 pick up.  So here are the practical questions I have before the inner three year old goes wild...

Which of the various Nordstrand MM 5 string pick up dimensions are compatible with the Warmoth Five string MM route?

The extra coil on the bottom of the Nordstrand pick up for noiseless single coil operation requires extra space, how much space and is there any information on how this is done?  While I don't want to take on the same level project as building an archtop guitar, if it is reasonable, I'd like to try to accomplish this.  Any sources of info that I can read up on what is required?

Finally, I am rather keen on the Badass II bridge, but bridges can be goofy on routes and dimensions.  What is the proper bridge (if there is a choice) dimensions and or bridge route dimensions/hole pattern to accommodate the music man pickup/bridge combo?

Thanks again for any info, these are the kind of details that can drive me crazy.
Patrick

 

[SkuttleFunk]

first off - the Nordy MM5.3 are my favorite Nordy MM pickup - excellent choice!


there are two shape configurations for the Nordy MM5.3 - with and without ears, identical in measurement to the MM5.2 models (one is standard MM sizing, the other is sized to fit as a Lakland replacement)

for the lower dummy coil, you'll need to route and additional 5/8" deep, and a little wider than the width of a single coil Jazz pickup (so you have a little wiggle room) If you have access to a drill press and you din't mind having a dirty route, you can accomplish this with a Forstner bit ... if you're more **cough** retentive like me, a simple homemade router template can be used to give you a nice and clean route with your router, a 1/2"D bit, and a 1/2" bearing on the shaft

the bridge spacing will depend on which pickup style you choose.

Music Man® replacement - for five string basses...the soap bar shape that has no 'ears' and narrow spacing. Pickup length = 4.415", width = 1.950"

Lakland® replacement - for five string basses...has screw 'ears' and wide spacing. Pickup length = 4.10", width = 1.90"

all the best,

R

 

[Wyliee]

there are two shape configurations for the Nordy MM5.3 - with and without ears, identical in measurement to the MM5.2 models (one is standard MM sizing, the other is sized to fit as a Lakland replacement)

I must stress one very important point in Rod's post.  The Warmoth MM rout is for a pickup *without* ears.  Be sure to get the right one from Carey.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

OK, then it would seem that the pickup that I am looking at is the Nordstrand MM5.3 but NOT the Lakland replacement.  It has the extra dummy coil on it, and that is approximately the size of a Jazz pickup.  I am assuming that I will just have to get the monster (pickup that is) and see what it requires to fit in there.  I can't quite visualize it yet.  It does not sound like making a template for the extra route will be very difficult.  After I get the pickup it will just be setting up the router and template for the route to give the extra coil some room.  From what Rod said, it sounds like it is an additional 5/8" in.  That part always makes the stomach a bit light. 

If I have most of the details correct here, and I am pretty sure I do, which bridge route or hole pattern would be correct for a Badass II bridge for the standard Musicman spacing?  Bass bridges still confuse me a bit, and I am sure I am making a bigger deal out of that than I need to.

Thanks again for the info.
Patrick

 

[SkuttleFunk]

not sure what to tell you about the bridge hole spacing - I've always used a Hipshot Type A or Hipshot Vintage bent plate bridge on my 5's. I omitted the bridge hole drilling from the W body and did it myself

R

 

[SkuttleFunk]

OK ... I had a little bit of time to check on a few things

First off, MM is utilizing the non-ear pickups on their 5-string Stingrays as can be seen here

specific for the neck, the EBMM site lists these specs:

Scale Length:34" (86.4 cm)
Neck Radius:11" (27.9 cm)
Headstock Size:Only 9" (22.9 cm) long
Frets:22 - High profile, wide
Neck Width:1-3/4" (44.5 mm) at nut, and 2.75" (69.9 mm) at last fret

compare this to the Warmoth D5 neck with a similar fret count and 2.906" (74mm) heel width, and it looks like you're going to be able to just support an 17mm wide bridge spacing (the added width of a W neck will support a 17.5mm spacing).

NOTE: It would be good to get W to measure the length of fret 22 for you, as the difference in dimensions may be solely on where the measurement was taken (W = end of neck, and MM = length of fret) There is possibility that both necks have like dimensions, and therefore the MM neck sports a 17.5mm (.689") spacing

but ... you're building a bass, and not retrofitting a MM.  :icon_biggrin: by looking at the EBMM image you can see that there's some extra spacing between the outer strings and the pickup pole pieces. with this in mind, it appears you can fully support a 17.5 mm spacing on the bridge, and quite possible even a 18mm spacing as well


for a bridge, you're looking at a Leo Quan BA Bass V bridge (it's 5-string) and not a BAII bridge (it's 4-string). the BA Bass V will support 17mm - 20mm string spacing, and BestBassGear.com has them in chrome for $95. you're going to need to slot the saddles, but this is doable with a little guidance, some _very_ accurate measuring, and a couple of small files.

an alternative would be to consider something like a Hipshot Type A bridge with your preferred spacing. BestBassGear.com has these in chrome for $107 (alum block) and $121 (brass block)  I find the Hipshot to be significantly more user friendly than the Leo Quan, especially when you consider that there's no saddles to slot (and have to buy again if you goof on your slotting job)

all the best,

R

 

[Patrick from Davis]

Thanks for all of the info, I have rethunk it and the Leo Q bridge was just a hangover from a bass player I know with a lot of opinions.  I have a Fender bass from round '85 and have never had trouble with the bridge on it.  I have a bunch of great little diamond files in various grits and shapes that would work out fine to slot the bridge saddles, but I am leaning towards the path of least resistance.  The Hipshot sounds like it would work out fine.  Any suggestions on the Aluminum or Brass?  I know that it is basically a change in density because neither is known for being all that tough a material, just easy to cast.  I am curious to know if this is another urban musician legend that you just have to have one over another...  Thanks again for the info and insight.
Patrick

 

[SkuttleFunk]

I lean towards the alum block for weight and cost savings. I can't say that there's enough of a difference between the two metals that you're going to hear it in the overall mix.

once customer I have swears that the alum provides less overtones (thus more fundimental) than the brass, but when I've had him test instruments he's never been able to consistently identify the bridge material once it's been installed. YMMV of course

all the best,

R