2tek piezo?

Pelagaard

Hero Member
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Totally random, crazy idea.  Would it be viable to replace the saddles on a 2tek with piezo saddles?  I'm picturing a fretless 4/5, probably short-scale, with a MM in the sweet spot, and a piezo bridge.
 
Interesting Q …
I just got a 6 Sting 2TEK which is in front off me.  :icon_biggrin:
Other pic's …. http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=20090.0

I only use the GK-3 pickups, so don't know much about Ghost / Piezo etc.  :toothy11:
BUT ….
If you want the piezo saddle wires to be hidden somehow …..  :dontknow:  .....  forget it.

The only way I can see is with having the wires come out the front of the saddles and down into the 2Tek cavity.
Then back into the control cavity.
:icon_scratch:  (That could be the hard part, depending on distance and size / type of control cavity etc)
Could have a 2Tek plate to cover most wires, except from the saddles to the depths below.

I've taken some close up pic's (below) to show the only hole is for the string.

Hope that gives you some ideas.  :dontknow:

a4d9dac7.jpg


1f5be0db.jpg


f32d2146.jpg
 
OT, but ... What's the point of lightening holes in a  bridge who's principle design feature is being a 'high mass bridge'?  :icon_scratch:

I think 2tek coulda hit one out of the park, but missed a really really patently (har har) obvious feature that could have boosted sales ENORMOUSLY and guaranteed they couldve been around much much longer.
 
One of the same points I've made. What is the point of removing a mass of wood right in one of the most critical areas and placing metal in there? All you are going to do is make the sound brighter and more tin like. As far as note isolation and no cross talk, all the fingers still attach at the base plate, and all the strings still come together at the nut.
It seems like more sizzle than substance.
 
jim peters said:
What is the point of removing a mass of wood right in one of the most critical areas and placing metal in there?
WHAT  .....  and they don't do anything like that when using a Tremolo do they  :doh:

:icon_scratch:
Think you will find a Tremolo rout of ANY kind, especially when recessed ...... has a lot MORE wood removed than a 2TEK rout.
Sure looks like it to me !!
You measure a Tremolo Rout area ..... and I'll measure the 2TEK routed area ..... bet I win  :icon_biggrin:


jim peters said:
All you are going to do is make the sound brighter and more tin like.
Great    :blob7:  .......  just what I'm looking for, with these ballsy SD Invaders  :icon_thumright:

** Back to OP Q's
I have just mounted the 2TEK on a SG Body (No 2Tek mounting ring used)
By looking at it now, the wires from a Ghost saddle coming out the front would hardly be visible.

But .... if I was installing those Ghost saddles on this body.
I would be sending the wires into the 2Tek cavity and then though the back wall closest to bridge humbucker.
And into the humbucker pup rout then into the control cavity.

Like where I have sent the earth wire for the 2Tek.
Not much room on either sides of 2Tek cavity, when the unit is installed.

I don't know how big the plug ends are on those ghost saddles.  :dontknow:
Just need a drill hole larger enough for those to fit though.
 
My thought was to either run them down the front of the fingers, and then drll a hole directly to the control cavity or, possibly drill through the top of the finger into the first cavity, and then out to the control cavity.  I'd do it like that as it would be a shorter path since I would probably pair it with a MM in the sweet spot.
 
Should be able to be done that way  :icon_thumright:
The fingers are bigger at the top, so lower down is better to go into control cavity.

The bigger the control cavity, the easier to get holes into the 2Tek rout.

Nothing is impossible  :icon_biggrin:
 
For shits and giggles I sent an email to the guys at 2tek to see what they think of the basic concept.

Depending on the size of the leads and connectors, I think drilling straight down into the first chamber, and then either going out the side between the fingers, or drilling through the front should hide the leads without effecting the bridge too much.
 
Cool …. looking forward to hear what they say  :icon_thumright:

I've had another look at the 2Tek.
Would probably be best NOT to have the ghost saddles mounted to the 2Tek on installing.
As you would have to feed the wires though, while you have the 2Tek halfway in.
(Unless of cause you have five arms & hands)  :laughing7:

I would have the saddles taped onto the front of the 2Tek rout, wires feeding down into the 2Tek rout
and though into control cavity.
That way when you put the 2Tek in. ie: Lowering the body over it.
You could see and feed the wires around as you go, just with a thin screwdriver etc.

BTW … If I was installing a GK-3 pickup with the 2Tek, I'd be sending the wires the same way.

I will be testing a GK-3 mountable on the one using a 2Tek.
But …. a little worried that the strong magnets in the Invaders will upset the GK-3
:dontknow:  (would have to lower those puppies) 
 
The GK-3's and GK-2 that I have I use with Roland's VG-99 and the GR-55.

If you mean  :dontknow:  ..... what other synths do I use.
Well I have an Access Virus Ti desk top. With well over 7,000 patches
http://virus.info/page/render/lang/en/p/62/do/Virus_TI_technical_specifications.html
Which I play via guitar-to-midi though either of the Roland units.

Here's the very 1st demo I did, of driving the Virus Ti Synth with a Guitar  ....... As guitar-to-midi
http://soundcloud.com/zummooz/midnight-call-1/s-wgwdO
Each string playing a different patch from Virus Ti, so those get recorded to separate midi tracks in Logic.
(Info on tracks and what used here ...
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=17990.0

Other synths I use, which you can do the same thing with  …

Crystal ….. (good free synth) .... CPU Sucker thou

Rest are Native Instruments
Absynth
FM8
B4II
Pro-53
Kontakt
Kore 2
Massive
Reaktor
Maschine
Electric Piano

Ummmm .....  This one is using some Guitar-to Midi as well. Not a lot, but some different tracks using that.
http://soundcloud.com/zummooz/gangsters-on-the-run
This one needs to be played real LOUD  :guitarplayer2:
 
That's a helluva pile o' stuff! And you clearly know how to use it.

I was mainly curious about the guitar synths, though. I've seen some YouTube clips regarding the GR-55 and it seems like quite the piece of gear. I can imagine having some fun with that.
 
If crosstalk ever mattered, the graphtech is where it does. Yes, it still attaches to the same neck, nut etc, but youre stll changing the mechanical impedance of the resonating systems coupling to one another. I must reconsider this.
 
Updown said:
jim peters said:
What is the point of removing a mass of wood right in one of the most critical areas and placing metal in there?
WHAT  .....  and they don't do anything like that when using a Tremolo do they  :doh:

:icon_scratch:
Think you will find a Tremolo rout of ANY kind, especially when recessed ...... has a lot MORE wood removed than a 2TEK rout.
Sure looks like it to me !!
You measure a Tremolo Rout area ..... and I'll measure the 2TEK routed area ..... bet I win  :icon_biggrin:


jim peters said:
All you are going to do is make the sound brighter and more tin like.
Great    :blob7:  .......  just what I'm looking for, with these ballsy SD Invaders  :icon_thumright:

** Back to OP Q's
I have just mounted the 2TEK on a SG Body (No 2Tek mounting ring used)
By looking at it now, the wires from a Ghost saddle coming out the front would hardly be visible.

But .... if I was installing those Ghost saddles on this body.
I would be sending the wires into the 2Tek cavity and then though the back wall closest to bridge humbucker.
And into the humbucker pup rout then into the control cavity.

Like where I have sent the earth wire for the 2Tek.
Not much room on either sides of 2Tek cavity, when the unit is installed.

I don't know how big the plug ends are on those ghost saddles.  :dontknow:
Just need a drill hole larger enough for those to fit though.

Tremolo's are known for their high sustain ability too arent they?
 
It could possibly work with piezo saddles. Probably could drill one small hole just below the int screw for wires to snake thru. I'm sure the metal they used isn't hardened, so a regular drill bit would do just fine. :dontknow:
 
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