Just wondering, this would be for a build with an EMG 85x in the bridge and a 89x in the neck. I would have no need for the middle position and you need the push-pull pot for switching to the strat coil on the 89 anyway. There are 2-way tele and strat switches, but nothing for strat. I could of course use the two lowest positions on a 3-way.
2-way-strat-type slide switches -- do they exist?
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Cagey
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I'm not sure what your asking for, but if it's what I think it is, you might want to look at the switches they use on Jaguars and Jazzmasters. They're DPDT switches, but you don't need to use the whole thing; just use one pole. They're common and inexpensive.
S
swarfrat
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I think I'd consider a DPDT toggle for this. I find even 3 way blade switches slightly akward due to the length of throw between positions when you're used to a five way. Not enough to really bother me, but I think it would with a 2 way.
If someone makes a true DPDT 3 way you could wire it as Neck-Bridge-Neck. But I think a toggle is your best bet.
If someone makes a true DPDT 3 way you could wire it as Neck-Bridge-Neck. But I think a toggle is your best bet.
Cagey
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Teles don't have slide switches, they have blade switches. If you don't get your terminology right, you're going to get bad advice.
If you want a blade switch because you already have a slot for it, which is likely on a soloist, it's unlikely you're going to get one in a two-position configuration. The reason for using that style of switch is to get multiple switching arrangements out of a single control.
You could get two-way operation out of three-position switch. Just use a Tele blade switch and wire either positions 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 in parallel. That way, you could simply slap it to one extreme or the other and it would essentially behave as a two-selection (rather than two position) switch. Or, wire it the way it's supposed to be, where one extreme is one pickup and the other is the other, with both selected in the middle. Same operation - slap it to either extreme, and you have two selections. Just ignore the middle point. Or, learn to like it. You never know. You might.
If you have a hole instead of a slot, then I'd do what Swarfat suggests - install a toggle. A SPDT will do it.
Or, if it's all too complicated, hire Rosie O'Donnell and have her do your switching for you. Just threaten her with a severe beating every once in a while. I'll bet she'd like it.
If you want a blade switch because you already have a slot for it, which is likely on a soloist, it's unlikely you're going to get one in a two-position configuration. The reason for using that style of switch is to get multiple switching arrangements out of a single control.
You could get two-way operation out of three-position switch. Just use a Tele blade switch and wire either positions 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 in parallel. That way, you could simply slap it to one extreme or the other and it would essentially behave as a two-selection (rather than two position) switch. Or, wire it the way it's supposed to be, where one extreme is one pickup and the other is the other, with both selected in the middle. Same operation - slap it to either extreme, and you have two selections. Just ignore the middle point. Or, learn to like it. You never know. You might.
If you have a hole instead of a slot, then I'd do what Swarfat suggests - install a toggle. A SPDT will do it.
Or, if it's all too complicated, hire Rosie O'Donnell and have her do your switching for you. Just threaten her with a severe beating every once in a while. I'll bet she'd like it.
S
swarfrat
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Yeah i got tunneled into thinking electrically and forgot about constraints due to existing holes. If you really really hate it you might could remove the center detent, but honestly cagey is right. Nobody says you have to stop just because youre passing through.
You can split the coil with a tele 3way blade switch. I know it being active it's a bit different but I'm almost certain it's not a problem I'll look up emgs to make sure but unless you need 2 poles to do the splitting for god knows what reason you don't need another switch to do it.
edit: wow emg doesn't like simplicity i guess. and yes i believe a tele switch will fit into a strat route. hang in there and i'll post a diagram for a strat 3-way to go 1-bridge 2-neck 3-neck split. i think it's posible if you only have a single volume. or do you want 2 volumes?
edit: wow emg doesn't like simplicity i guess. and yes i believe a tele switch will fit into a strat route. hang in there and i'll post a diagram for a strat 3-way to go 1-bridge 2-neck 3-neck split. i think it's posible if you only have a single volume. or do you want 2 volumes?
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swarfrat
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The pot just contains a DPDT switch. EMG might not have diagrams, but there are other diagrams out there showing how to do this I believe.
http://www.geocities.jp/dgb_studio/EMG_89_e.htm
http://www.sonic.net/~emgman/89diag.html
http://www.geocities.jp/dgb_studio/EMG_89_e.htm
http://www.sonic.net/~emgman/89diag.html
alterbridgefan
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Emg's are not meant to be simple, but they aren't hard to wire. Don't go by the manual, find better diagrams online.Dan0 said:
And if you haven't already bought the pickups, listen to blackout comparisons on the tube. I personally think they sound more real, I love them.
Altar said:
it's not diagrams that are a problem it's the lack of documentation on what the wires do. there really isn't any need to use 6 wires to tap a pickup, even if it's active. if you ask me the engineers at emg have their heads up their areses. anyhow that doesn't mean i cant transfer the diagram to a different type of switch without knowing all the information but i might not be able to do it with independent volume controls.
It's tricky when you prefer an unusual wiring. It would be quicker to use it with just switching between the pickups or one where the single coil is on top, the dual coil 89x is in the middle and the 85x is on the bottom, especially when you have to switch both pickups and amp channels.
oh yeah sorry i have a habit of forgetting.. i'm not gonna take the time to draw it all out so i hope this helps.
if the switch looks like this from the bottom:
1c 2 3 4
--------------------
5 6 7 8c
the wires go like:
1= orange from 89
2= yelow from 89
3= blue from 89
5= white from 89
6= green grom 89
7= white from 85
8= connection to the center lug on the volume control and the tone control circuit
all black wires get grounded, and all red wires go to the battery.
if the switch looks like this from the bottom:
1c 2 3 4
--------------------
5 6 7 8c
the wires go like:
1= orange from 89
2= yelow from 89
3= blue from 89
5= white from 89
6= green grom 89
7= white from 85
8= connection to the center lug on the volume control and the tone control circuit
all black wires get grounded, and all red wires go to the battery.
S
swarfrat
Guest
Some people say grounding the bridge is unnecessary w active pickgups, but the circuit itself most certainly needs a ground. Otherwise your electrons are swimming in jello and go nowhere for all their efforts
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