Recent content by Tonar8352

It looks to me like you did not get it fully level sanded before it was polished. Sometime that full gloss polish exposes any blemishes that are not apparent prior to the final polish. If there is still plenty of finish I'd level sand it with 800 grit until it looked complealy dull, then go to...

Ok Trevor, I'll let you know what I see after I check it out.

If you're not in a hurry I will be heading to LA sometime in the near future and I can swing by the Crystal Palace in Bakersfield and check it out for you.

I'd stain the back and then scrape the binding before the clear. If I did get a little stain on the front which should not happen I'd sand it, then clear the whole guitar.

Wax works, but if I'm really concerned about a certain area, i.e. tuner holes,  I'll use mineral oil as a lube with a touch of medium rubbing compound and 800 grit wet/dry. It cuts fast and still polishes out nicely.

I do a finial polish on a polishing arbor after I have the neck finished with 2000 grit Klingspor wet/dry and several coats of boiled linseed oil which are hand rubbed in.  I use a Stew/Mac Polishing arbor and Menzerna Ultra Fine Dry Polishing Compound. I still have to put in the work of...

I finished several guitars for a player a few years back and he told me about a luthier in his area who had some sets from "The Tree". I had no idea what that meant but it seemed like I should have been impressed. Once I heard the story I was impressed and the article in the link does a great...

I've done several Tele builds over the years but this one still sits at the top of the pile. https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=11709.msg159826#msg159826

Yes they are. I shoot the base color over a perfectly level sealer coat, level sand the color coat and tape off the stripes with very thin low tac tape. Next I spray the top color coat and pull the tape before starting to shoot the clear coats. It is very labor intensive due to the thin mil...

I'd shoot 3 coats of clear lacquer and then lightly sand between coats with 320. This would have to be repeated several times to get enough build to get it level but it could be done. Lots of labor and care not to burn through the clear to color coat would be involved much like when racing...

Here is a step by step thread I did on swamp ash. I always grain fill it first, then seal it with clear to make sure it is level, then use shading lacquer to get a beautiful even base color. https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=2971.msg30614#msg30614

I LIKE IT!

Welcome to the fun here. You do not need to finish that neck but look closely at this thread and polish the maple only, you will love playing a neck finished in this manner. All you questions will be answered in the thread. https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=19901.msg293776#msg293776

I refinished a top only on a 74 Gold Top that we could have used those pickups in a few years back. The owner had a custom pair built by Patrick from https://janktone.com/ and they turned out real nice. I liked that guitar a lot! Here is the guy from Atlanta Rhythm Section coaxing great tones...

Part of the prep for finish on every guitar I have finished requires some final finish prep. Of the different manufacture's I have handled Warmoth is by far the best and needs the least finish prep. I always steam all the small dings, scratches, and dents up first then final sand with 320 paper...