Seraph-inspired thinline/semi-hollow

[ragamuffin]

For a while now I've wanted to attempt a thinline/semihollow carved-top build... So here it goes!

-Shape will be based on the Springer Seraph https://www.springerguitars.com/seraph I looked through a lot of "boutique" single cut shapes before deciding on this one; I find it's pretty unique without being too wonky.

-Black korina body and 3/4" carved bubinga top https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=33425.0 I hadn't realized just how hard of a wood bubinga is when I bought it (janka hardness of 2000+, depending on the source), so carving the top might prove to be a challenge... I'll practice on a maple top and the bubinga cutoffs before working on the final top.

-Warmoth Gibson conversion neck. I'm thinking the Vortex headstock, most like ebony board on pau ferro.

-Low output PAF-type humbuckers

-I would like to do a recessed t.o.m. bridge and stringthrough, but I haven't decided whether or not to do an angled neck pocket and t.o.m. stoptail instead

Today I printed out the body shape, shaped the initial mdf template, and glued up the two piece of bubinga!

 

[BeagJon]

I'm really loving how many Bubinga projects are going on right now. It's such a beautiful wood.

 

[stratamania]

Look forward to seeing how you progress.

Although you mentioned gluing two pieces of bubinga together it almost looks like each piece might have been wide enough for the body?

 

[ragamuffin]

Look forward to seeing how you progress.

Although you mentioned gluing two pieces of bubinga together it almost looks like each piece might have been wide enough for the body?

Almost wide enough but not quite unfortunately... I'll have to think of something cool to do with all the cutoffs

 

[stratamania]

Look forward to seeing how you progress.

Although you mentioned gluing two pieces of bubinga together it almost looks like each piece might have been wide enough for the body?

Almost wide enough but not quite unfortunately... I'll have to think of something cool to do with all the cutoffs

Part of a laminated bass or guitar body perhaps, maple, bubinga etc. for the bits that aren't straight neck rests or similar.

 

[ragamuffin]

This morning I went to cut and route the shape of the top. Cutting on the bandsaw went fine, but I had a mishap with the router (the bearing on the bit got loose) and it damaged both my template and that beautiful bubinga top...  :sad1:

On the upside, the piece is still in good enough shape to use for practicing the top carve on.

I'm physically unharmed but it guts me to have fucked up that nice piece wood...

 

[JPOL007]

Cool sounding project :icon_thumright: I will be watching to see how this turns out for sure. Think about pattern cut router bits like bowl cutting for the cambering. They seem to be doing well for me.

 

[BroccoliRob]

i dont know what a seraph is (unless you are talkin bout Judaism), but my first thought was "more like prs 245 inspired" lol. but hey we all take inspiration from somewhere. B4 i invented Hard Milk I used to get a lot of inspiration at bars. you can sit there with your bartender-dad, and he'll listen to all your problems while providing a row of tiny glass children filled with liquid answers

 

[SeattleScotty]

Those Springer guitars look nice, the neocaster looks pretty cool too. I haven't heard of that brand, looks European, but they look like really nice guitars. I would love some piezo pickups to go with it.  :guitarplayer2:

 

[ragamuffin]

Today I duplicated the body template, made a chambering template from the older template, and cut/shaped the korina body! Korina is a beautiful... Have I ever told you how much I love wood?

It all went pretty well, but I got a spot or two of chip out/tear out on the body. I am/was planning on a clear finish; what's the best way to fill the chip outs? Wood filler of a close color?

 

[ragamuffin]

Anybody have recommendations for what to repair the chip-outs with?

 

[stratamania]

Perhaps try a mix of glue (tite bond or similar) and some korina dust you have left over. Whatever you use you might have to reconsider a transparent finish at least on the edges.

 

[Steve_Karl]

Perhaps try a mix of glue (tite bond or similar) and some korina dust you have left over. Whatever you use you might have to reconsider a transparent finish at least on the edges.

For me the Tite Bond+ sanding dust didn't work great when refinishing an old table top. Too lumpy / pitty after sanding down.
I ended up using Dap putty in off white / grey color for that and it was perfectly smooth to the touch, but yes ... color match not possible.

I used Dap Plastic wood in a maple color to fill the string tree screw holes in the head stock of my oldest Warmoth strat and it was also perfect
to the touch smooth, but once again not a perfect color match, but close enough that I don't mind. I can see the color difference from 3 feet away in good light but no big deal.

The string trees - - - I discovered the guitar played / felt better without them and there's plenty enough tension to keep the strings in the nut slots without any of that nonsense between the nut and the tuners. And yes ... once again string length does effect perceived tightness / stiffness of a string even if that length is just very tiny. (perceived = subjective and unmeasurable )

 

[ragamuffin]

Thanks guys, I ended up filling with CA glue and korina sawdust. Then I'll sand and re-rout the problem areas. I might have to do a black burst around the edges.

In the mean time I'm practicing my top carving

It was really rough at first but I think I'm starting to get the hang of it. Very slow going with bubinga though.

 

[DangerousR6]

Nice, looks like a single cut Knaggs... :icon_thumright:

 

[ragamuffin]

So I've been pondering the neck for this guitar...

I definitely want the Vortex headstock and ebony fretboard with no inlays, but for neck meat I'm not quite decided.

I could go with bubinga to match the top, or pau ferro because... pau ferro is sexy!

What do you guys think: bubinga or pau ferro neck??

 

[TBurst Std]

Well both can be iffy on availability.
Looks wise, I’d opt for bubinga. The peg head would be closer to the top.
Tone wise, PF is brighter than Bubinga, but marginally.
My dollar and if in stock, bubinga.

 

[ragamuffin]

Thanks, I'm leaning toward bubinga now. The only thing that worries me is that some pieces can be pretty light in color.

 

[ragamuffin]

Whelp, I bit the bullet! Went with bubinga. Can't wait to see it!

 

[ragamuffin]

Got the carving done on the practice top! It was a hell of a lot of work but I definitely learned a thing or two or five in the process. Now I'll be smoothing it all out with an orbital sander. Oh and practicing doing the f-hole... Not looking forward to that part

Edit: added the after-sanding picture