Grain filler

UncleRick

Newbie
Messages
1
I have recently purchased a Roasted Swamp Ash body. I know I need grain filler. I'm planning on spraying nitro, but what should I use for a grain filler? Link to the product would be very helpful.

Thanks!!!
 
I use the water-based grain filler these days (been buying Goodfilla). Water-based requires more work than the old oil-based stuff because it shrinks back more, but I don't have to worry about dangerous fumes and rags randomly bursting into flames.

Many people praise Z-pooxy, I plan to give it a try next time.
 
I use the water-based grain filler these days (been buying Goodfilla). Water-based requires more work than the old oil-based stuff because it shrinks back more, but I don't have to worry about dangerous fumes and rags randomly bursting into flames.

Many people praise Z-pooxy, I plan to give it a try next time.
How do you get the stuff like Goodfilla or Timbermate to be actually workable? They've been this dried out (and smelly), hard blocks inside the container. I've read to add water to thin it out, but it's almost impossible to rehydrate and stir. Even if I carve out a small chunk of it and put it in another container, it's still like hard clay that doesn't want to mix very well.
 
I have a strat warmoth body (ash/maple top) that I didn't grain fill. The grain read-thru had a nice effect. I did a dye job on it with a nitro finish. My inexperienced brain told me the grain filler would effect the dyeing process and i wasn't opposed to seeing grain on the finished product. The top was maple so the sealer filled any of the grain. There may be some downstream finishing pitfalls to skip the grain fill so proceed at your own risk. I did have an issue with the polishing compound getting caught in the end grain on the side of the body. I finished it in 2017 and I think there are still a few specs of compound that I couldn't get out.

Green is alcohol and colortone stain applied to bare wood, then many coats of vinyl sanding sealer. The black is colortone black stain and nitro:
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How do you get the stuff like Goodfilla or Timbermate to be actually workable? They've been this dried out (and smelly), hard blocks inside the container. I've read to add water to thin it out, but it's almost impossible to rehydrate and stir. Even if I carve out a small chunk of it and put it in another container, it's still like hard clay that doesn't want to mix very well.

I put some in a mixing cup, add water, and stir, ...and stir, ...and stir. And, yes, very smelly. But not noxious fumes like the classic oil-based fillers.

If it's a an opaque finish, many builders just use thinned drywall compound.
 
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