No, I'm not talking about asian natural disasters. I'm talking about when how I was struggling to finish my bass body and had hung it up on a coat hanger, but was still working on it when my coat hanger rig gave out sending the body crashing to the (concrete) floor. But the good news is that it's plunge was slowed by the fact that it hit the workbench AND the neck on its way down. Leaving a few nice little gouges in the neck. It's a new Fender MIM Jazz neck, so now I have to figure out what to do about that, too. This is a body I was hoping to finish in tung oil and the fall left some pretty huge dings in it. I managed to sand most of them out and filled the others. When I looked at it this morning the filled spots looked like fairly normal grain anomalies in the Ash. I had already applied some Minwax stain to it, but most of that was sanded off in repairing these spots.
CB: I used a LOT of CA on it last night. I started using it to fill the gouges and noticed some of the open grain in the darker areas of the ash. So I figured I couldn't hurt it much more than I already had, so I gave it a try and was very happy with the results. The way I did it was to drizzle the CA onto an area where I could see the grain and let it run down the body, but I would carefully tilt the body around to make sure the CA dripped onto more grain that needed to be filled. Since the open grain was in long lines this was fairly easy and efficient. So I would let it sit and cure to where it was *almost* dry, and then I would wipe away the excess with a rag. Then I hand-sanded it with some 150 grit.
I filled all the grain lines this way and most of the edges, with some special attention to the end grain areas. I mostly wasn't using your fingernail test: I just held it up at a sharp angle to my flourescent shop light and could see the grain pretty easily.
So after I had spent hours repairing and filling I decided to just move on to the Tung oil. I sanded to 320 grit (I didn't have any 360 like it calls for on the can) and started wiping on the oil. Before I applied the oil it was looking like a refinish job where someone was making a natural body from an old, beat-up solid-color body. But once the oil went on it really made the wood come alive. I looked at it this morning and it was looking pretty good, so I think I've pretty much salvaged it. It was a LOOOONG night last night!!
JBD
CB: I used a LOT of CA on it last night. I started using it to fill the gouges and noticed some of the open grain in the darker areas of the ash. So I figured I couldn't hurt it much more than I already had, so I gave it a try and was very happy with the results. The way I did it was to drizzle the CA onto an area where I could see the grain and let it run down the body, but I would carefully tilt the body around to make sure the CA dripped onto more grain that needed to be filled. Since the open grain was in long lines this was fairly easy and efficient. So I would let it sit and cure to where it was *almost* dry, and then I would wipe away the excess with a rag. Then I hand-sanded it with some 150 grit.
I filled all the grain lines this way and most of the edges, with some special attention to the end grain areas. I mostly wasn't using your fingernail test: I just held it up at a sharp angle to my flourescent shop light and could see the grain pretty easily.
So after I had spent hours repairing and filling I decided to just move on to the Tung oil. I sanded to 320 grit (I didn't have any 360 like it calls for on the can) and started wiping on the oil. Before I applied the oil it was looking like a refinish job where someone was making a natural body from an old, beat-up solid-color body. But once the oil went on it really made the wood come alive. I looked at it this morning and it was looking pretty good, so I think I've pretty much salvaged it. It was a LOOOONG night last night!!
JBD
