I use 500K audio taper pots for everything. Worst case is you don't like the taper or it gets too bright when you turn it up to 11, so you put a 470K to 750K resistor in parallel with the pot. I also like to use a .001µF for a treble bleed, so you don't lose the highs as you turn the volume down.
Is that little .1 thing a microfarad? I'm pretty blind when it comes to electronics, and I will definitely have to watch the guy do it to learn. I also swapped the vintage rails for a dimarzio 58 if that makes any difference.
Is that little .1 thing a microfarad? I'm pretty blind when it comes to electronics, and I will definitely have to watch the guy do it to learn. I also swapped the vintage rails for a dimarzio 58 if that makes any difference.
If somebody put a .1 mike cap in your guitar, you need to smack them.
As far as I'm concerned, pickup choice doesn't matter. Single coil, double coil, hot, wimpy, vintage, etc. Smaller pots load things down and eat high end. So, 500K. If it's too bright, you can knock it down, but that's the place to start. Some folks have been known to put in 1M parts, but that's just overkill. Past 500K, you're getting into rapidly diminishing returns and tapers that don't work well in practice.
It's true that of course you can remove treble, but if you find that you're removing the same amount of treble as a starting point every time, there's nothing wrong with building that into the guitar.
There's also a consideration that if you're switching between guitars, it's nice if you don't have to go over and tweak amp settings at each changeover, or have a separate EQ pedal for each.
500K, always. As Cagey noted, you can "tune" them with a resistor. I stopped buying 250K pots as soon as I started testing pots with a multimeter. Values of 170 and 180 are common among 250K CTS pots - "20%" be damned. . You can stamp your feet, hold your breath, exchange stuff endlessly, or just start buying things that work.
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