Warmoth Neck Frets

[nexrex]

Hey all, just noticed something weird with all my warmoth necks. Tell you the truth, its not really even an issue...just different I guess.

All my existing guitars, an ibanez, epiphone and squier strat all have very flush looking frets, and the recessed part of the fret can't be seen from the side of the finger board.

 

[nexrex]

Anyway, my 2 warmoth necks look like this, and I guess I would just like to know why they set their frets up this way. See the photo (circled in red) , but you should be able to see that you can see the fret wire from the side of the fingerboard    :icon_scratch:

 

[The Norwegian Guy]

don't worry =)
It's absolutely normal :icon_thumright:

 

[SustainerPlayer]

On your other guitars the ends of the tang slots have been "nipped" and the holes filled before the necks were finished. I haven't seen that feature on Warmoth necks. But it is a more "deluxe" feeling than the flush filed frets ends allthou both will feel smooth done properly..

I have that on a ESP Navigator Stratocaster.

 

[nexrex]

Thanks guys. I am a computer technician by trade, so installing/maintaining of computer hardware and systems is my daily work. So, I do understand there can be many ways to do the same job.

It's just that I've never seen frets done this ways, and for a company that offer premium goods to their clients I don't really understand why they wouldn't take the extra time to do this.

 

[JaySwear]

i actually love the look of being able to see the fret ends. seems like it would make it a whole lot easier to replace old frets, too. not sure if that last part is true, but it seems like it would be. just my thoughts on it though

 

[Cagey]

I doubt it makes replacement any easier. In fact, it probably makes it harder because you have to fiddle with the fret more, then reproduce that filling and dress it up. Another thing to consider is that running the anchoring tang all the way to the end holds the fret in the fretboard more positively, so it's less likely to rise out of the slot. I'd rather have a more mechanically robust fret installation than hide a few thousands of an inch of metal.

 

[SustainerPlayer]

A refret has normally an upcharge because it is more difficult. Normally the charge is the same as if the neck was bound. And the frets are just as "mechanically robust" as on a bound neck. Never heard about specific problems in this regard.

 

[Steve_Karl]

I asked warmoth about undercutting tangs a while back. They said the best they could offer would be "frets on the side" meaning they'd send me the fret wire and I could have some one else nip the tangs and install the frets. They don't undercut tangs ... but I'd love it if they'd start.

The reason I did ask is that the tangs on my oldest warmoth neck ( mid to late 80's ) started being noticeable to the touch a few yrs. back. Maybe my neck shrunk.
I was just trying to avoid the same on the one I ordered a few months ago ... if in the long run the same happens.

 

[m4rk0]

I asked warmoth about undercutting tangs a while back. They said the best they could offer would be "frets on the side" meaning they'd send me the fret wire and I could have some one else nip the tangs and install the frets. They don't undercut tangs ... but I'd love it if they'd start.

The reason I did ask is that the tangs on my oldest warmoth neck ( mid to late 80's ) started being noticeable to the touch a few yrs. back. Maybe my neck shrunk.
I was just trying to avoid the same on the one I ordered a few months ago ... if in the long run the same happens.

I can feel the tangs on my Wenge neck, only in the winter....it probably makes no sense, but it's true.

 

[dNA]

I can feel the tangs on my Wenge neck, only in the winter....it probably makes no sense, but it's true.

that makes perfect sense. In winter the air is very dry and cold, so the woods will get cold and dry, causing them to shrink ever so slightly

 

[m4rk0]

Ah, so it's not my imagination... it is actually almost unplayable at times.... (it's still my favorite guitar though)

 

[Wyliee]

Ah, so it's not my imagination... it is actually almost unplayable at times.... (it's still my favorite guitar though)

Yes, this will absolutely happen.  The wood will expand or contract depending on moisture.  A few minutes with a flat file and some steel wool will clean that up.  No big deal.  I've had to deal with that on some mucho expensive basses I used to own.

 

[erogenousjones17]

I had to file the frets ends off the Mighty Mite neck on my Strat. Those things are sharp! It took a couple hours with a file to get the tangs ground down and the fret ends rounded off nicely, but the improvement in feel was well worth the effort.

 

[Cagey]

The wood will expand or contract depending on moisture.  A few minutes with a flat file and some steel wool will clean that up.  No big deal.

How do you manage to file on the fret ends without marking up the fingerboard (or finish, if there is one)? Is it just a matter of being very careful, or is there a trick/tool that makes it practical?

 

[Patrick from Davis]

Generally you use something like this link here.  One side makes things perpendicular, one adds the bevel so you do not dig into your hand.  Edges still need to be rounded after use.  For the ends that stick out, I'd get some sand paper and a thin piece of wood to, "Add," it to the file setup so that it could be used as a sanding block, and then knock the ends down slowly that way.
Patrick

 

[Wyliee]

The wood will expand or contract depending on moisture.  A few minutes with a flat file and some steel wool will clean that up.  No big deal.

How do you manage to file on the fret ends without marking up the fingerboard (or finish, if there is one)? Is it just a matter of being very careful, or is there a trick/tool that makes it practical?

To knock the edges down, I have an old metal file that is very straight. (A straight file is something to cherish and keep.)  I run the file parallel to the neck, running the length of the neck.  This helps keep the marks down on the side of the neck.  Fine steel wool or sandpaper will clean it up.

 

[Cagey]

I've seen that sort of thing before, and agree that it would do the job. But, what if you have finish on the side of your fingerboard that you don't want to mar? That kind of tool is fine for when the neck is built and before finishing, or for necks that don't have finish up to the top level of the 'board. Seems like you'd have to be awfully careful or lucky to leave enough finish that you could buff the thing out again to remove abrasion marks.

 

[nexrex]

the above comments are really just added to my original questions. If warmoth offered trimmed fret tangs as an option then you wouldn't even have to muck around with a file correcting any issues.

 

[Steve_Karl]

the above comments are really just added to my original questions. If warmoth offered trimmed fret tangs as an option then you wouldn't even have to muck around with a file correcting any issues.

+1
Yeppers!

We can always hope for the future!