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Transparent Red Finish

Nicholasdaniel

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http://www.warmoth.com/Showcase/images/bodies/large/PS4642a.jpg

Any ideas how to achieve this finish by staining?
I'm hoping to get it done on a tele body made out of alder.
 
That finish is incredibly close to this finish, that I did a few years ago
bcb4.gif

PS4642a.jpg


Consider, the wood I started with was pinkish mahogany, while that wood was light amber ash.

Except for the natural binding... very similar.
 
When doing something like that, I've found it best to do the sides of the body first with the dark color.  You can let it overspray a little on the edges of the top and back, it wont hurt since its gonna be bursted anyway.  If you screw up, and get the side color where the top color should be, no problem at this point, just sand it off. Then do the lighter color on the top and bottom, since its transparent, you can bring it almost to the edge and any little overspray is not noticed on the sizes - if the colors are compatible.  Then you go back and add the burst finish to the edges of the top and back.   You'll have to contend with natural binding, but... that just requires that you lay down some clear, add the tape, and shoot over it.  Remove tape after the color coats, and shoot clear over the whole body.  The reason you shoot clear UNDER the tape first, is to make a better seal and in case the color does run under the tape, you have something to scrape back - it doesn't go into the wood itself.  Clear over everything, and its all sealed up and lookin good.

So keep in mind, no dye, just a transparent light color and semi opaque darker one.
 
So painting it would be my best choice?
I'm not that experienced with paint.
So i would prefer to dye it or stain it but i am more dedicated to that finish so if that is what it takes I'm up for the challenge

 
Jack had some troubles doing this, with the same material I used, but... I never did it before and got it right the first time.

I used Mohawk Ultra Classic Toner, a transparent "lacquer based" toner.
http://mohawkfinishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=171

Color was dark red mahogany for the center, and deep red mahogany for the edges and burst.  The "deep" is a bit more opaque, especially if you layer it on a bit.  You shouldn't need more than one can of each.  Then you'll need several cans of clear lacquer.  I used Deft, but the Cabot lacquer is also very good - Lowe's sells Cabot, and seems to have dropped Deft.  Could be the store near me, dunno.

Go a bit heavy on the clear.  That is - more coats, not necessarily heavier ones.  You want more coats because if you sand through while leveling, its gonna be a !@#$ to fix and have it totally hidden.  Better to lay on more clear, and have some insurance on the leveling.  So maybe three cans of clear, as I'm thinking of it.

Thats about it really.
 
One more thing. The pics you posted were the final step in that process you used?
and if i just want it lighter in the middle just dont overcoat it as much correct?
 
Here's a link to the finishing job on the  Thinline I did that CB was referring to:

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=821.0

Finished axe: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=1294.0

As you're using Alder, you can skip over the grain filling steps.

 
Nicholasdaniel said:
One more thing. The pics you posted were the final step in that process you used?
and if i just want it lighter in the middle just dont overcoat it as much correct?

You'll be using lighter wood.  The wood on the SG was already "faded red" a sort of pinkish color... so it started a bit darker than ash or maple or alder would be.
 
Alright i been searching all these post and found your quick recipe on how to do this finish and collected all the suggestions  i could find on this finsh in Jack's post. One variation i might do is stain it black then sand that off to the grain like you do with the wood filler then seal it. Then continue with the technique you added.
 
That'll work too, and bring out the grain depth and character.  I like that idea.  The body I did was really plain mahogany.  No figure or anything.  But, OTOH, it was effectively a one piece body!  (except for a thin add-on piece at the upper rear bout)

Doing that finish with black first... should be stunning.  Just remember to get the sides really dark after the black dye is sanded back, then the top and back, then the final burst.
 
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