Total Vintage neck setup...
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rockskate4x
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call Warmoth back and let them know FIRST before you try anything. You may be able to get a new neck. Yeah it'll suck to have to wait longer, but it is better to get exactly what you want...
rockskate4x said:
That's definatly what I'm doing at the moment. That waiting kills me :sad:
EDIT: I got caught up in a catch 22 situation....
My order: Warmoth Pro + Wizard profile + Lefty.... turns out, Warmoth Pro side adjuster can only be made for right-handed necks AND Wizard profiles can only be made out of Warmoth Pro constructions....BLEH! Hence the heel adjuster I got...... that should be written somewhere in their neck section damn it......I'd have skipped the Wizard profile altogether and got a Vintage Modern regular paddle..... gotta pay to learn they say.
All leftys out there, be advised
One of the great attributes of the Warmoth Pro necks is that they rarely need adjusted. They are far more stable than your average neck. Also, taking a neck off and putting it back on again is a pretty quick process. Faster than taking off a pickguard.
Unless I find a decent and good-looking (or not too-bad-looking) way of leaving an access hole through the pickguard and the body to access the adjuster nut.
AutoBat
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Should be written in the neck section?Dreamert said:rockskate4x said:
That's definatly what I'm doing at the moment. That waiting kills me :sad:
EDIT: I got caught up in a catch 22 situation....
My order: Warmoth Pro + Wizard profile + Lefty.... turns out, Warmoth Pro side adjuster can only be made for right-handed necks AND Wizard profiles can only be made out of Warmoth Pro constructions....BLEH! Hence the heel adjuster I got...... that should be written somewhere in their neck section damn it......I'd have skipped the Wizard profile altogether and got a Vintage Modern regular paddle..... gotta pay to learn they say.
All leftys out there, be advised
You mean like this? http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/SideAdjustPop.aspx
Cagey
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Dreamert said:CHRIST!! Exactly what I didn't want to hear
I got my neck after 3 months and they screwed up, built it a Total Vintage one instead of the Warmoth Pro I asked for :sad1: :sad: :tard:
I can't live with taking the neck off everytime, no way
I wouldn't want to do that, either. But, Warmoth's wood is well-seasoned, so it's pretty stable. They're not like some manufacturers who have to turn out thousands of necks per week. That means you may not need to adjust the thing as often as you might imagine.
Another thing you might want to consider is putting threaded inserts in the mounting holes, and using machine screws to attach the neck. It not only makes it a lot easier to take the neck on and off, it doesn't wear like a wood screw hole will, and it'll hold the neck tighter so you get better sustain. It's an inexpensive modification, doesn't show externally, and is well worth the cost and/or effort to do. Figure about $15 to $25 to do it yourself, and maybe $40 to $60 to have it done. You'll burn that in shipping getting the thing made right as is, plus the wait, and it's still a good idea to do it, especially if this is a Strat where you have to pull the neck to play around under the pickguard.
Cagey said:Dreamert said:CHRIST!! Exactly what I didn't want to hear
I got my neck after 3 months and they screwed up, built it a Total Vintage one instead of the Warmoth Pro I asked for :sad1: :sad: :tard:
I can't live with taking the neck off everytime, no way
I wouldn't want to do that, either. But, Warmoth's wood is well-seasoned, so it's pretty stable. They're not like some manufacturers who have to turn out thousands of necks per week. That means you may not need to adjust the thing as often as you might imagine.
Another thing you might want to consider is putting threaded inserts in the mounting holes, and using machine screws to attach the neck. It not only makes it a lot easier to take the neck on and off, it doesn't wear like a wood screw hole will, and it'll hold the neck tighter so you get better sustain. It's an inexpensive modification, doesn't show externally, and is well worth the cost and/or effort to do. Figure about $15 to $25 to do it yourself, and maybe $40 to $60 to have it done. You'll burn that in shipping getting the thing made right as is, plus the wait, and it's still a good idea to do it, especially if this is a Strat where you have to pull the neck to play around under the pickguard.
I love that idea..... any suggestion on which inserts to get and where to get them from? I heard stainless is the way to go.... any place I can get them specifically for guitar neck purpose as I don't feel like fiddling around town with measurements and trying to find the right thing.
mayfly
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I've installed these in so many guitar necks I've lost count. Highly recommended. Please use a drill press and wax your threads
http://www.onyxforgeguitars.com/Insert%20kit.html
http://www.onyxforgeguitars.com/Insert%20kit.html
Cagey
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I buy my parts from McMaster-Carr, because I already have the tools needed to do the job. But, if you don't, you might want to consider the source Mayfly pointed out as it's a complete solution in a box.
I prefer the stainless inserts, though. I've used the brass ones, and they work fine if you can get them in, but since necks are always made of hardwood, they tend to fight back. It's fairly easy to strip the slots on a brass insert vs. a stainless one, and then you're stuck with trying to get the bastard back out so you can try again with a new insert. Finally, the stainless parts are slighly smaller in diameter, so they don't try to displace as much wood, which is tough to do with hardwoods.
I like these parts
They're more expensive than brass, but they're still only $2.71 ea. so 4 of them will run you ~$11. Also, if you're smart, you'll realize that trying to run those in with a screwdriver is going to be an exercise in futility and will likely result in a cocked thread, a sore wrist, and perhaps a wrecked insert, so you'll want to use the proper tool. One of these makes the job a walk in the park...
$9.26, in the box, out the door, and quite reusable, which is important because everybody you know will want threaded inserts in their necks once they see what a wonderful thing they are, and you can pick up the cost of a couple cases of beer for doing it for them.
As for screws, you'll want nothing but the best which would be these lovely stainless steel machine screws...
A bag of 50 8-32 x 1 1/2" parts will run you $6.26, if you use the ones with the heads designed by Phil Lips. The slotted ones cost more, probably to discourage those inclined toward stupidity.
So all up, for your first job you've got $11 in inserts, $6.25 in screws, and $9.26 for a tool, which comes to $26.51. The next 12 jobs will only cost you the $11 for inserts.
Edit: Incidentally, while you can buy gold or black screws, the matte finish of stainless steel looks pretty good against black, gold or chrome neck plates. I've got all three, and have no intention of changing any to match. Besides, any screw is going to suffer tool marks every time you take it out or put it in, but they won't be obvious on a raw metal screw like they would be on a finished one.
Also, Mayfly's advice about using a drill press and thread lube wax is not only good, it's more than a suggestion. Do it. You'll be sorry if you don't as the possibility of failure is high. Failure means a wrecked neck, which is no small thing.
One final clarification - you need the drill press to open up the mounting holes so they're square to the neck, not to run in the inserts. For the inserts, you want a variable speed hand drill that you'll run very slowly.
I prefer the stainless inserts, though. I've used the brass ones, and they work fine if you can get them in, but since necks are always made of hardwood, they tend to fight back. It's fairly easy to strip the slots on a brass insert vs. a stainless one, and then you're stuck with trying to get the bastard back out so you can try again with a new insert. Finally, the stainless parts are slighly smaller in diameter, so they don't try to displace as much wood, which is tough to do with hardwoods.
I like these parts
They're more expensive than brass, but they're still only $2.71 ea. so 4 of them will run you ~$11. Also, if you're smart, you'll realize that trying to run those in with a screwdriver is going to be an exercise in futility and will likely result in a cocked thread, a sore wrist, and perhaps a wrecked insert, so you'll want to use the proper tool. One of these makes the job a walk in the park...
$9.26, in the box, out the door, and quite reusable, which is important because everybody you know will want threaded inserts in their necks once they see what a wonderful thing they are, and you can pick up the cost of a couple cases of beer for doing it for them.
As for screws, you'll want nothing but the best which would be these lovely stainless steel machine screws...
A bag of 50 8-32 x 1 1/2" parts will run you $6.26, if you use the ones with the heads designed by Phil Lips. The slotted ones cost more, probably to discourage those inclined toward stupidity.
So all up, for your first job you've got $11 in inserts, $6.25 in screws, and $9.26 for a tool, which comes to $26.51. The next 12 jobs will only cost you the $11 for inserts.
Edit: Incidentally, while you can buy gold or black screws, the matte finish of stainless steel looks pretty good against black, gold or chrome neck plates. I've got all three, and have no intention of changing any to match. Besides, any screw is going to suffer tool marks every time you take it out or put it in, but they won't be obvious on a raw metal screw like they would be on a finished one.
Also, Mayfly's advice about using a drill press and thread lube wax is not only good, it's more than a suggestion. Do it. You'll be sorry if you don't as the possibility of failure is high. Failure means a wrecked neck, which is no small thing.
One final clarification - you need the drill press to open up the mounting holes so they're square to the neck, not to run in the inserts. For the inserts, you want a variable speed hand drill that you'll run very slowly.
Cagey said:I buy my parts from McMaster-Carr, because I already have the tools needed to do the job. But, if you don't, you might want to consider the source Mayfly pointed out as it's a complete solution in a box.
I prefer the stainless inserts, though. I've used the brass ones, and they work fine if you can get them in, but since necks are always made of hardwood, they tend to fight back. It's fairly easy to strip the slots on a brass insert vs. a stainless one, and then you're stuck with trying to get the bastard back out so you can try again with a new insert. Finally, the stainless parts are slighly smaller in diameter, so they don't try to displace as much wood, which is tough to do with hardwoods.
I like these parts
They're more expensive than brass, but they're still only $2.71 ea. so 4 of them will run you ~$11. Also, if you're smart, you'll realize that trying to run those in with a screwdriver is going to be an exercise in futility and will likely result in a cocked thread, a sore wrist, and perhaps a wrecked insert, so you'll want to use the proper tool. One of these makes the job a walk in the park...
$9.26, in the box, out the door, and quite reusable, which is important because everybody you know will want threaded inserts in their necks once they see what a wonderful thing they are, and you can pick up the cost of a couple cases of beer for doing it for them.
As for screws, you'll want nothing but the best which would be these lovely stainless steel machine screws...
A bag of 50 8-32 x 1 1/2" parts will run you $6.26, if you use the ones with the heads designed by Phil Lips. The slotted ones cost more, probably to discourage those inclined toward stupidity.
So all up, for your first job you've got $11 in inserts, $6.25 in screws, and $9.26 for a tool, which comes to $26.51. The next 12 jobs will only cost you the $11 for inserts.
Edit: Incidentally, while you can buy gold or black screws, the matte finish of stainless steel looks pretty good against black, gold or chrome neck plates. I've got all three, and have no intention of changing any to match. Besides, any screw is going to suffer tool marks every time you take it out or put it in, but they won't be obvious on a raw metal screw like they would be on a finished one.
Also, Mayfly's advice about using a drill press and thread lube wax is not only good, it's more than a suggestion. Do it. You'll be sorry if you don't as the possibility of failure is high. Failure means a wrecked neck, which is no small thing.
One final clarification - you need the drill press to open up the mounting holes so they're square to the neck, not to run in the inserts. For the inserts, you want a variable speed hand drill that you'll run very slowly.
Good stuff but a bit overwhelming for my first shot though it's cheaper in the end and I love it.
About inserts:
* Which type: Self-Locking with Adhesive Seal?
* Thin, thick or extra-thick? I'd go with thick?
* Thread size and number of threads? I guess 8-32 (to match the bolt/screw)
* Lenght? Seems to come at 19/64'' automatically...?
About the screws:
* 1 1/2'' or should I go for 1 3/4'' like the OnyxForge kit?
* Oval or Oval undercut?
Cagey
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Dreamert said:
I know nothing of self-locking or adhesive seal parts. But, I'm sure they don't need to be "locking", and I don't know what a seal would be good for. You might be thinking of helical coil inserts for metal parts.
As for thickness, a given design doesn't give you a choice, athough there is a difference in wall thickness between stainless and brass parts, with the stainless parts being thinner-walled. This is good in a neck, because you don't want to get too close to the edge of the wood with something that's going to try to expand it. It's liable to split, causing you to invent a whole new vocabulary of cuss words as you realize you've just turned a perfectly good neck into firewood.
Regarding thread size, your options are limited, but I like the 8-32 parts because it's a finer thread, allowing you to get a tighter draw. You can use a 10-24, but the screw will be pretty tight in the body holes, and might even require some relief, all for questionable return. The 8-32 screws will hold that neck one helluva lot tighter than any glue joint extant.
I've never checked length, but the way they come is fine. Those things aren't going anywhere once they're in. I suspect the neck would snap before the inserts would pull out.
I've been using 1 1/2" screws, as there's no point in threading past the insert and lord knows you don't want to run into the back of the fingerboard. But, you should know I've only done this with Strat necks/bodies. Other guitars might have different requirements, and I can't say what those are.
For the screw heads, I'm not sure there would be a difference between oval and oval undercut. I suspect either would work equally well. But, for the record, I've been using the ovals.
If you haven't done so, you might want to review the links I put in the previous post. They lead to a supplier of these parts that has one of the widest selections I've seen of such things, all reasonably priced.
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