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Toasty Wood

stubhead

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This is actually an article about... using roasted woods for acoustic guitar tops, but it's still got some straightforward info that might not be lifted verbatim from a phantasmagorical sales pitch:
http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/21444-acoustic-soundboard-torrefied-woodsdont-be-afraid

Nowadays it takes 12.5 seconds for any idea about guitar materials/parts/manufacturing/"mojo"* to twist towards some hallucinogenic fact-free glossolalia, so this:
I consider the process to be one of the only real breakthroughs in guitar-building materials in my 20-year (and counting) career.
- comes off as almost bizarre. Huh? You really mean something?


*(Would it be uncouth & louchy of me to summate my position on "Mojo?" - JINKIES MOJO!... mmm... "jinkies?!?" oh nevahmind)
 
Interesting. He seems sold.

Jury's still out for me, but I just got the notification today that my terriblyfried Maple neck is on its way to my stomping grounds in Michigan and I should see it some time next week. Makes me wish I lived in Norway or Australia so I could get it faster. Mayfly's got one, though. Surprised he hasn't said anything yet.
 
I wonder ... it says that it causes the wood to take on an aged color ... does this mean that if I left a maple neck alone for 20 years it would take on the qualities of the toasted neck; surely the color would be the same.  Any thoughts?  Is driving off the water from the wood the same as driving off the water with age.  Is maple like proscuitto?
 
Moisture & "resin" are two separate things. One of the claimed reasons that old wood is better is because the resin (sap) has crystallized, thereby turning the wood into a sort-of rigid honeycomb structure. If just drying up the water alone made guitars better, the "rules" and lore would be different. I would guess that crystallizing the resin also seals off the cell and grain interiors from absorbing and discharging water so easily? I'd also guess that baking it long enough to set the resins will also cook out the water, but it should make it a lot more resistant to absorbing any new moisture. I end up wondering if making the wood that much harder and rigid might also decrease the warmth? There actually are ways to get TOO much treble - pretty easily.

It seems pretty obvious that a number of questions about transmission and absorption of vibration, measuring and creating resonant peaks etc. could be at least better defined with an oscilloscope and sine-wave generator, but for some odd reason you don't see those kinds of studies in guitar mags or manufacturer's websites. Because music is all "personal opinion" and "taste" and context - old guys with green eyeshades tapping on boards, squinting at boards, smelling boards, wait - did he just LICK it?!?!

JUST SHUT UP AND BUY THEM ALL, KID! Wassamatta with you - don't you CARE about music? Oh well, only the REAL musicians can hear the difference! Do you really suck THAT bad/maybe you just don't DESERVE a SquiffleSnorg Dominator III, kid*....

Several times I have read Mr. Woodihead the Online X-Spurt (or one of his disciples) say that besides being crystallized, the old Fender maple is "better" because it's "old-growth" maple, and the lines are much closer together because it was colder 250 years ago. And various sneaky little luthiers obtain illicit stashes of X-Tra-special old growth maple from lake bottoms and old buildings and bedframes of kings & Chinese emperors etc. Outstanding! And they'll turn you on to some, but it's gonna cost ya. Fine, great, super.... but I have made the mistake of asking something like:
Doesn't that just mean that, like: new, softer, wide-grained fast-growth cheapass commie scut-maple is simply going to have a warmer tone, closer to mahogany, and it's not "wrong" or "stupid" or "evil," it's just another, different, choice? :icon_scratch:
So far my research overwhelmingly indicates that only dooshbag losery haterz'z could even think anything so retarded and I should ask my mommy for another cookie.

:blob7: :hello2: :toothy10: Adolf Hitler! :toothy10: :hello2: :blob7:


*(yesidoyesidoyesidoyesidoyesidoyesidoyesidoyesidoyesidoyesidoyesidoyesidoyesidoyesidoyesido. I do TOO!)
 
I think driving off the water will make the wood more resonant because the pores and cells will not be filled with water and the sap will be hard.  I don't think it will make it more trebely, it'll just be more of how it sounds, just like comparing a solid body to a chambered body.  I bet a roasted mahogany neck sounds nice, and it would have the benefit of not needing a finish.
 
For Rick. Its darker than regular maple. That probably accounts for the "looks aged" claim. I am hearing different philosophies on putting any kind of finish on it at all. Some are happy playing it raw, others insist on a coat or two of gun stock oil just to keep it clean over time. No one seems to have had one long enough to gauge what they will look like after ten years of regular playing. Should be as cool as an old, old strat but I can't say at this point. 
 
river said:
You can also make a neck from antique wood to be more accurate to vintage guitars.


If only there was someplace I could easily order antique wood from............. :dontknow: :icon_jokercolor:
 
Cagey said:
Interesting. He seems sold.

Jury's still out for me, but I just got the notification today that my terriblyfried Maple neck is on its way to my stomping grounds in Michigan and I should see it some time next week. Makes me wish I lived in Norway or Australia so I could get it faster. Mayfly's got one, though. Surprised he hasn't said anything yet.

Mine's still in the box.  Too many other projects at the moment.
 
BTC_Dinky_J-4_zps8qh7olf8.jpg


:icon_biggrin:
 
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