Soloist Vai-Caster Build

Kotzur76

Newbie
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4
So in preparation of my build, of which I spent probably 4+ months planning, I kept photoshopping everything together down to the pickups, inlays, and wood selections to see what it would look like prior to getting the pieces. Here attached is my proposed idea of my dream build.

Body:
Model: Carved Top Soloist
Orientation: Right handed
F-Holes: None
Scale: 25-1/2"
Wood: Flame Maple / Maple on Mahogany
UC Front Laminate: LT2657
Rout: Rear Rout
Pickup Rout: Humbucker (Wood Mount) (N), Strat® (Middle), Humbucker (Wood Mount) (B)
24 Fret Reposition: Yes
Controls: V-T-X-5 (Strat®)
Bridge: Recessed Original Floyd Tremolo
Stud Install: Use inserts from bridge on order
Jack Rout: 3/4" (19mm) Side Jack Hole
Neck Pocket: Strat® Shape
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Contours: Contoured Heel / Tummy Cut / Forearm Contour
Battery Box: Double Battery Box
Binding: Pearloid Binding
Top Finish: Black to Clear Burst
Back Finish: Black Burst
Finish Type: Gloss Finish

Neck:
Style: Warmoth
Construction: Modern Tiltback Construction
Orientation: Right Handed
Neck Wood: 3A Flame Maple
Fingerboard Wood: Flame Maple
Unique Choice: FB3222
Nut Width: 1-11/16"
Back Shape: Wizard
Fret Size: SS6105 (Stainless)
Tuner Ream: Gotoh/Grover (13/32" 11/32")
Radius: Straight 12"
Scale: 25-1/2"
Fret #: 24
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: R3 Floyd Prep w/ Mounting Holes
Inlays: Black Mother Of Pearl Dots
Side Dots: Black Side Dots
Finish: Clear Satin Nitro

Other pieces:
DiMarzio Dark Matter 2 pickups (HSH)
DiMarzio Push/pull 500k pot
Grover Milk Bottle Tuners, Chrome 18:1
Forney Custom Double Helix Short Flat Top Knobs with matching switch tip in Inca Silver
SKB 1SKB-66 case
Custom Laser-etched neck plate and truss rod covers

1doiLTs

It's been about a month into waiting, figured I'd get started on here and will post pictures of the finished build once everything comes in!  :headbang:
 

Attachments

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Beside the 3+3 headstock, which I personaly dislike on DC bodies, think will look good so far!
A bit busy looking, but nice!
 
After getting a body and realizing it didn't have the 720 mod, sending it back, having it remade then sent again, I finally have it about 80% together, enough to show it off in all its glory. This has been way too long in the making and turned out way better than I thought it would!
 

Attachments

  • 20191213_010447.jpg
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MORE PICS :) !!!

Looks great. I really like the neck. Something about it, maybe the color, maybe the headstock, really makes the entire guitar pop. I think the entire guitar looks incredible.

How did your setup go? Any tricks needed to balance the 720 mod and Floyd? My guitars all have standard pockets and fixed bridges so any insight would be appreciated.
 
I'll get some more pictures once I have the rest of it done on the back and inside, but man that is the problem I'm currently having. Don't think it'd have to do with the 720 mod, but the floyd doesn't bounce back to pitch. Setting it up, it's level and in tune, but as soon as I pull higher or lower, it stays either at a higher or lower pitch from whichever I pull it. Thinking it has to do with the springs.

But thanks for the kind words, been really happy with it so far. Just need a lower action and the correct wiring but all in all, it's a dream.
 
Any chance it’s making contact with the body and binding somewhere? I know zero about Floyd’s but since it’s getting stuck at both extremes it makes me think it might not be just the springs. Again, I have zero experience or knowledge of those terms.

Curious about the 720 mod. Did it allow you to achieve lower action? Where did you set your relief and action?
 
Warmoth's recess cavity for that style Floyd is cut very close. While that's aesthetically pleasing and generally works fine, I've had a couple occasions where I had to open it up just a smidgen, or else there would be friction between the bridge baseplate and the sides of the cavity, causing an inconsistent return to neutral. I suspect it has to do with the manufacturer or vintage of the bridge itself - they're not all exactly the same width or have their pivot points cut in exactly the same place. Doesn't need to be off by much for it to be a problem when clearances are that small.

 
Cagey said:
Warmoth's recess cavity for that style Floyd is cut very close. While that's aesthetically pleasing and generally works fine, I've had a couple occasions where I had to open it up just a smidgen, or else there would be friction between the bridge baseplate and the sides of the cavity, causing an inconsistent return to neutral. I suspect it has to do with the manufacturer or vintage of the bridge itself - they're not all exactly the same width or have their pivot points cut in exactly the same place. Doesn't need to be off by much for it to be a problem when clearances are that small.

I have found this as well, near the treble side stud mount corner of the route.
 
I actually found out the saddle screws are digging in slightly under the trem. Hurt the paint, but only slightly and it's completely covered. Took a dremel and shortened the excess on each screw since it's a pretty low action, set up real nice. Fixed the issue! Did chapstick on the joints too, so the only thing I need is to fix my wiring, get some screws for the trem cover and a football jack cover, and we'll be picture perfect.
 
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