Soldering through eyelets

[LoxFL]

Can someone explain to me what soldering through the eyelets mean. I am following the wiring diagram for the Fender Custom Shop 51' Nocaster pickups and as you see the Resister and Capacitor both say solder through eyelets. Does that mean solder them directly to the metal ring around the eyelet holes?

 

[aarontunes]

On a blade switch, each tab has a corresponding eyelet - a little round opening lined with metal - that is actually on the wafer board. (You can see them in the image below.) When you pass a wire through one and solder to it, it is the same as solder to the corresponding tab.

I've never, ever used them. The only reasons I could see for someone specifically instructing you to use the eyelets would be:

1) They think it's easier to use an eyelet when two wires need to be connected to the same tab - you can solder one to the tab, and one to the eyelet. (IMO, it is easier to just solder them both to the tab.)
2) They think it creates less clutter to use eyelets when the tabs that wires needs to connect to are on the far side of the switch. It keeps you from having to pass them across/over the terminals.
3) It's "vintage correct" in some way.

 

[LoxFL]

On a blade switch, each tab has a corresponding eyelet - a little round opening lined with metal - that is actually on the wafer board. (You can see them in the image below.) When you pass a wire through one and solder to it, it is the same as solder to the corresponding tab.

I've never, ever used them. The only reasons I could see for someone specifically instructing you to use the eyelets would be:

1) They think it's easier to use an eyelet when two wires need to be connected to the same tab - you can solder one to the tab, and one to the eyelet. (IMO, it is easier to just solder them both to the tab.)
2) They think it creates less clutter to use eyelets when the tabs that wires needs to connect to are on the far side of the switch. It keeps you from having to pass them across/over the terminals.
3) It's "vintage correct" in some way.

I think in this case since that picture I put in my post is the official wiring diagram from Fender for the ‘51 Nocaster I think your quess #3 may be right

 

[stratamania]

Interesting.

I see it is a resistor and capacitor on the diagram shown as through eyelets. It seems to be a reasonable idea as it keeps them below the other terminals and leads from pickups and to volume pots etc.  Sort of like the more rigid parts soldered to a part of the switch that is closer to being like a circuit board.

I would suppose also in a production run you could have the resistor and capacitor attached first and then at a later time it put into the guitar and the wiring finished up. In the meantime, the parts are out of the way sitting in a parts bin with less risk of the parts being damaged like they might be if they were soldered to the tabs.

I like it...

 

[rgand]

Interesting.

I see it is a resistor and capacitor on the diagram shown as through eyelets. It seems to be a reasonable idea as it keeps them below the other terminals and leads from pickups and to volume pots etc.  Sort of like the more rigid parts soldered to a part of the switch that is closer to being like a circuit board.

I would suppose also in a production run you could have the resistor and capacitor attached first and then at a later time it put into the guitar and the wiring finished up. In the meantime, the parts are out of the way sitting in a parts bin with less risk of the parts being damaged like they might be if they were soldered to the tabs.

I like it...

That would have been useful when I installed an Oak Grigsby in a 1-5/8" thick body. That got a bit cramped for vertical space and I had to bend the tabs up to make room.

 

[LoxFL]

Well after actually doing the work I have to say it wasnt as hard as I thought it was going to be. I did get a new fine tip for my soldering iron which helped allot. also bending the wires between the eyelets especially the resister wire was the hardest part.

 

[Ozopart]

I was searching for help on soldering CTS Push/Pull pots and found this old thread. What I am looking for (and I did search on the internet with no luck, and pardon my lack of knowledge on correct terminology) is how to wire the bottom part of the push/pull pot (C1,C2,1,2,3,4) eyelets. Do you just pass the wire through the eyelet far enough and then solder from the front to sort of fill in the eyelet hole with the wire in it? Or, ... Again, I searched but all I get are tips on wiring, not on soldering.

 

[Sadie-f]

Do you just pass the wire through the eyelet far enough and then solder from the front to sort of fill in the eyelet hole with the wire in it?

That's pretty much what I do. The eyelet makes it so you don't have to do much fixturing.

 

[stratamania]

I was searching for help on soldering CTS Push/Pull pots and found this old thread. What I am looking for (and I did search on the internet with no luck, and pardon my lack of knowledge on correct terminology) is how to wire the bottom part of the push/pull pot (C1,C2,1,2,3,4) eyelets. Do you just pass the wire through the eyelet far enough and then solder from the front to sort of fill in the eyelet hole with the wire in it? Or, ... Again, I searched but all I get are tips on wiring, not on soldering.

I posted something that will show you how to do this.

Soldering CTS Push Pulls

 

[Ozopart]

I was searching for help on soldering CTS Push/Pull pots and found this old thread. What I am looking for (and I did search on the internet with no luck, and pardon my lack of knowledge on correct terminology) is how to wire the bottom part of the push/pull pot (C1,C2,1,2,3,4) eyelets. Do you just pass the wire through the eyelet far enough and then solder from the front to sort of fill in the eyelet hole with the wire in it? Or, ... Again, I searched but all I get are tips on wiring, not on soldering.

I posted something that will show you how to do this.

Soldering CTS Push Pulls

Thanks as always stratamania. I will look through all of those videos this morning.