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Slotting nuts and Saddles, what do you use...

sixstringsamurai

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...For cutting them?

??? ??? ???

Did you spring for the overpriced set of files from SM?

Or do you rock it old school, and use Torch tip files?
 
I have a set from Hiroshima (probably an OEM) that looks identical to the StewMac parts, and were roughly the same price. A set of needle files is handy for shaping as well, if you make the nuts from blanks as I do.

It's an investment, but well worth it. You only need to make about 4 or 5 nuts before the tools are free, and you're always able to adjust guitars at set up even if you don't make nuts for them.
 
This is one item I have not gone to do.  I have found most of my Warmoth necks are fine out of the box.  the one case I wanted to lower the actions, I took off the entire nut and sanded and lowered from there.
For other work my tech charges $45 an hour and never takes longer than that.

I would really enjoy learning how to do it but like Cagey said, its a big investment if you are not planning on using them a lot.
 
I ask because a buddy of mine, who worked for a prominent custom shop here in Boston,
(Until they decided to sell their instrument name plate to Whal Fhart....)
He uses the Torch files religiously, swear by em' as if they would save his soul, and they are $3.79 a set and last forever. vs. the big $$$ files.
 
I've never tried them, but my understanding is they don't last long, won't cut well on anything but plastic nuts, and are too flimsy to cut straight. However, I'm sure there they come in varying degrees of qualtiy, so the life expectancy complaint might be spurious. As for how they cut, my guess would be they're only as abrasive as they need to be to knock off carbon/dirt deposits in welding tips. I wouldn't think you'd want anything aggressive enough that it might cut into the inside diameter of those tips, right? It would change the orifice size, which I'm assuming would be NFG. As for their flimsiness, they're round, like wire. A round piece of anything that's only .010"-.050" in diameter isn't going to be too stiff. Cutting slots that aren't straigtht can leave you with strings that don't sound right. You get that "sitar" effect.

On the other hand, they are surprisingly inexpensive. You could buy 10 - 20 sets of tip files for what one set of good nut files will cost. That means maybe life expectancy isn't really a big issue. As for bite, maybe you don't cut nuts from blanks with the things, but they'd be fine for minor adjustments like you'd do during setup. The flimsiness issue could probably be overcome with practice.

If you don't cut many slots, it'd be a fairly cheap experiment to try a set and see how things work out. Worst case, you have to buy a set of nut files anyway, and maybe make a new nut. But, if you're already at that point, what's $5-$10 for a little education?
 
Cagey said:
I've never tried them, but my understanding is they don't last long, won't cut well on anything but plastic nuts, and are too flimsy to cut straight. However, I'm sure there they come in varying degrees of qualtiy, so the life expectancy complaint might be spurious. As for how they cut, my guess would be they're only as abrasive as they need to be to knock off carbon/dirt deposits in welding tips. I wouldn't think you'd want anything aggressive enough that it might cut into the inside diameter of those tips, right? It would change the orifice size, which I'm assuming would be NFG. As for their flimsiness, they're round, like wire. A round piece of anything that's only .010"-.050" in diameter isn't going to be too stiff. Cutting slots that aren't straigtht can leave you with strings that don't sound right. You get that "sitar" effect.

On the other hand, they are surprisingly inexpensive. You could buy 10 - 20 sets of tip files for what one set of good nut files will cost. That means maybe life expectancy isn't really a big issue. As for bite, maybe you don't cut nuts from blanks with the things, but they'd be fine for minor adjustments like you'd do during setup. The flimsiness issue could probably be overcome with practice.

If you don't cut many slots, it'd be a fairly cheap experiment to try a set and see how things work out. Worst case, you have to buy a set of nut files anyway, and maybe make a new nut. But, if you're already at that point, what's $5-$10 for a little education?

All legit points, and appreciated.
I suppose that this falls under my grandfathers rule of:
"If you need to by a specific tool more than once you're not buying quality tools."
 
I have a selection from Stew Mac, and some other smaller files for shaping type work that I got in the UK from a hardware store.

 
I started with the torch tip cleaners. They work. Slow, but they work.

Then I bought a couple of the nice ones from Stem Mac at $13 ea. and used the wobble plan to get all 6 slots close to correct. It worked OK but not all slots came out right.

Then I bought some of these off of ebay. Same as the SW files without any plastic dipped handle.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Regular-Light-Gauge-Hiroshima-Files-Uo-Chikyu-Nut-Files-6-piece-Set-/121766731430?hash=item1c59dcdea6:g:FLMAAMXQR4FRlWaq
:blob7: :hello2: :occasion14:

If you watch the seller cuts the price by 10% and they sell for like $67.
:rock-on:
 
I have these,
il_570xN.303815621.jpg


and these,
s-l225.jpg


I figure as often as I do hand cut/slot, that these and a set of the tip files should be sufficient.

It's not like I am punching out 4-5 a day, or on tour as support crew, so I prefer to take some time and work slowly.


Again, all legit input, thats why I like it here, honest answers without condescension... :icon_thumright:
 
sixstringsamurai said:
I have  these,
s-l225.jpg


I figure as often as I do hand cut/slot, that these and a set of the tip files should be sufficient.

It's not like I am punching out 4-5 a day, or on tour as support crew, so I prefer to take some time and work slowly.


Again, all legit input, thats why I like it here, honest answers without condescension... :icon_thumright:

I have the same.  Just use a nut slot locator, then work slowly.  I take longer and check the string height after several strokes.  Some of these can remove material very quickly.
 
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