Replacing a truss rod.

[Vol. Knob]

On my Karosa Goncalo Alves back/Marblewood fingerboard neck, the truss rod failed.  Big time.  The action has become way too high.  But the truss adjustment nut is nearly impossible to get to, and it won't move.

So I removed the neck, took a knife and a hammer and indelicately removed the Marblewood fretboard.  It came off a lot easier than I expected.  Then I pulled out the truss rod.

This thing looks home made.  I'm surprised it ever made any adjustment at all.  So I'll be ordering a Warmoth Double expanding truss rod soon and see if I can put this neck back together.

Here's where I'm at.  Thoughts?

Neck, Fingerboard and Truss Rod

Truss Rod Channel.  Notice how its not straight.

Truss Adjustment end.  Yes, its all boogered up.  It wouldn't move.

Butt end of the truss rod

 

[DangerousR6]

WOW, that's jacked up....The truss rod doesn't even go the full length of the neck... :icon_scratch:

Not only that, it doesn't look like it would even work.... :dontknow:

 

[-CB-]

you're probably going to have to do some surgery/fabrication to get the new rod in

Time to get those dead flat sanding blocks out, and get the crud off the joining faces of the wood pieces

Time to fix up some clamping cauls and time to get in a supply of clamps

 

[Rickgrxbass]

Since it's too late to try and put in a warranty claim...

That seems to be an insubstantial truss rod length; I realize they generally don't traverse the entire length of the neck, I thought they usually go at least close to the neck joint, maybe about the 14th or 16th fret.  Anyhow, I do believe a double-expanding rod would be the way to go, first off because they're just plain better, but also because that will require a larger trench (I think) so you can bore out the one they cocked up.

From a technique standpoint, excepting for a precision-milled block from StewMac or machine shop, I'd recommend gluing some sand paper (pretty rough to get through the glue, probably 120 or 180) to the work table of a table saw or similar so you can sand the entire neck surface at once to reduce the chance of making uneven spots.

As far as clamping, if this is going to be the only neck you plan performing this kind of surgery to, you may be able to get away with some (very) large rubber bands, otherwise the purpose-built fingerboard clamps from StewMac may be a good investment if you plan on getting into the neck building trade.

 

[rapfohl09]

Wow...that is litterally two pieces of metal rod....glued together? It doesnt even look welded. I suppose wrought iron is cheaper than a truss rod  :laughing7:

 

[Vol. Knob]

I don't plan on ever doing this kind of surgery again.  I'm only doing it because it is such a nice looking neck and fingerboard, I like the back contour, I like the feel, and it sounds good.  If I pull it off, I'll have the added bonus of bragging rights that I fixed it.  I will ultimately be replacing the Karosa neck on my other thinline, I'm less fond of its back contour and its not as pretty as this one.  I can only assume it has the same truss rod, so its days are numbered. 

This is yet another explanation of why Karosa necks are so cheap.  Cheaply made Truss Rod.  But, you get what you pay for.  I'll be placing an order for double expanding truss rod today.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

W neck?

 

[-CB-]

my own train of thought here is suggest getting one of the 8 inch radius blocks from StewMac and cutting it up into 1 inch sections to use as cauls.  A long length of wood and some padding along the back of the neck should be fine for that side. 

For the planing/leveling of board and neck...  if you have a wood plane of ok size (or can borrow one), take the blade out of it and then use some sandpaper wrapped on it (or StickIt paper).  Use a carpenters square as an ok straight edge.

 

[Vol. Knob]

W neck?

The neck is not from Warmoth.  Its from Karosa, http://stores.ebay.com/karosaguitars?_rdc=1.  They put necks up on ebay, typically 24 hour auctions.  I've seen 'em go for as low as $10, rarely have I seen one go for more than $60.  He uses some interesting wood.  My two had several weird issues and required a lot of setup.

I won't buy one again.  Next time its definitely Warmoth.  As I stated, on my Warmoth bodied thinline, I'll simply replace the neck, for now its okay.  But if this neck is any indication, its days are numbered.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Okay.  I re-read and see Karosa is the brand, I thought that was some kind of wood I wasn't familiar with.  I see too it's Goncalo/Marblewood.  Maybe I should just read the thread better, lol.  Anywho, please post everything.  This is an interesting DIY, moreso than a finish or pickup route.

 

[Vol. Knob]

I just ordered a truss rod.  Only not from Warmoth, they have a $25 minimum order and I'm cheap.  I'll post pics as I proceed.

 

[Vol. Knob]

I have the new truss rod.... its longer than Karosa's home-made POS truss.  And longer than the channel. 

Sigh.  Time to bust out more serious tools.....  Glad I bought a jewelry store, there's some cool tools that came with it....