Quest about dyeing Swamp Ash

[jrbird1138]

I recently received a quilt maple/swamp ash Bass6 body. I have plans to dye the whole thing black but in doing research about grain filler and dyeing swamp ash I have some concerns. Should I dye the swamp ash then use a clear grain filler or dye the grain filler and apply it then dye the rest? I also read that swamp ash has a tendency to not dye evenly, leaving a blotchy appearance. I have read quite a bit and found several different methods. I am mostly looking for some clarification as to the order I should do things or should I just use a tinted lacquer. Any information would be helpful.

 

[Cagey]

Dye, then grainfill. As for splotchy, you might be thinking of Maple. Swamp Ash dyes pretty well. As with any wood, though, it's good to wet the wood down with whatever solvent you're using before applying any dye. That'll keep it more reliably even.

 

[jrbird1138]

Thanks Cagey. That is exactly the clarification I was looking for.

 

[Jusatele]

swamp ash dies real nice. I really like working with it as it accepts the die real evenly. With any wood though it is the technique you use that can effect the end result. A good even application and timely wipe down is involved.
And seal afterword. wood and sealer do take different amount of die.

 

[bagman67]

This is a General Finishes water-based orange dye on black-grain-filled ash.  Your mileage may vary, but I'm pretty happy with the result.

 

[jrbird1138]

This is a General Finishes water-based orange dye on black-grain-filled ash.  Your mileage may vary, but I'm pretty happy with the result.

What grain filler did you use Bagman67?

 

[bagman67]

Timbermate.  You can tint their neutral to suit your needs or buy any of the pretinted colors.  It is waterbased so cleans up easy and dries fast.  You will probably need more than one application.

 

[jrbird1138]

Timbermate.  You can tint their neutral to suit your needs or buy any of the pretinted colors.  It is waterbased so cleans up easy and dries fast.  You will probably need more than one application.

I plan on using denatured alcohol to dilute the dye. Will there be any problem with the water based filler?

 

[bagman67]

If you approach it this way:

1.  Apply dye
2.  Apply a shellac barrier to "lock" the dye
3.  Apply grainfiller
4.  Apply clear lacquer topcoats to taste (probably 10-12)
5.  Settle down and wait for the lacquer to cure - 4-6 weeks or even longer depending on temperature
6.  Wet sand and then polish

You should be okay. 

 

[jrbird1138]

One more silly question. Is the natural Timbermate clear or do I need to tint it?

And as fore curing time I live on the Gulf Coast of Texas where it is very humid most of the year. 

 

[jrbird1138]

Ok, so I was just reading about Timbermate and they say you can stain the filler like normal wood after it is applied. I am going to be doing a black stain and am using the StewMac Colortone stain. If I use water instead of alcohol as the solvent could I just fill the grain and then stain like normal?

 

[Cagey]

Yup. In fact, the body I'm working on right now I used a water-based filler and stain (Colortone) and I've been shooting solvent-based nitro at it as if the stuff's free and getting excellent results. Just don't be impatient. Make sure you give everything plenty of time to dry/cure.

 

[jrbird1138]

Yup. In fact, the body I'm working on right now I used a water-based filler and stain (Colortone) and I've been shooting solvent-based nitro at it as if the stuff's free and getting excellent results. Just don't be impatient. Make sure you give everything plenty of time to dry/cure.

Cool. Sounds like I have a plan of attack now. Just need to finish getting supplies and start the labor of love that is finishing a guitar body. Thanks for the info everyone.