Q about face dots

[CarteBlanche]

If I saw an unfinished neck in the showcase with cream face dots, how difficult would it be to switch to Abalone face dots?

 

[OzziePete]

My understanding of the face dots, is that they are glued in, so pulling them out might be quite difficult, especially if you do not want to damage the fretboard. Might be easier to source a neck with the face dots you want, already on them.

 

[jackthehack]

Warmoth won't make that change for you, if that was the question. It would be cheaper to custom order a neck to suit you than buy one on the Showcase and get the inlay changed.

 

[theklanch]

If I saw an unfinished neck in the showcase with cream face dots, how difficult would it be to switch to Abalone face dots?

Depends on what your definition of difficult is.  There is a pretty easy way to get those buggers out.  You need a drill bit smaller than the dots like 1/8" (most face dots are 1/4") and some acetone.  Take the drill bit and drill the center of the dot out till you hit the wood.  You want to go the whole way through the dot.  Then put a little acetone on the dot and the hole will let the acetone get under the dot.  Some types of dots will melt with the acetone, but the glue should unless they use some kind of super industrial strength glue.  Chances are that they use crazy glue which will dissolve with the acetone.  Then after a little bit the plastic dots will soften and you should be able to use tweezers or something to get the plastic out.  You will be left with perfect holes for your abalone.  Just follow standard inlay procedures to put your abalone in.  Hope this helps.  I tried this technique out on my buddies tele that had three cracked dots.  I ended up changing them all to make them match and wow what a pain it is to sand the dots down with the neck still fretted.  If I were to do it again I would pull the frets and sand the whole neck instead of spending two whole days with a very small block of wood and sandpaper.

Go for the abalone it will look far better in your eyes cause that is what you really want......

 

[blue313]

It's always best done during a refret.  Otherwise its some tedious ass work.

I agree that it depends on what your definition of difficult is, it's not all that hard.  However even standard inlay procedures can be rough for a novice.  It's best practiced on....well you said it best....someone elses axe  :laughing7:

 

[theklanch]

It's always best done during a refret.  Otherwise its some tedious ass work.

I agree that it depends on what your definition of difficult is, it's not all that hard.  However even standard inlay procedures can be rough for a novice.  It's best practiced on....well you said it best....someone elses axe  :laughing7:

Tedious isn't the word.  I told my buddy that it would be best to pull the frets but he of course was cheap and said no.  This is one inlay job that I recommend to anybody interested in inlay as it is about as easy as it gets.

I am a pretty hands on guy, I always thought if someone else could do it and I have the same tools that I could do it too.  I don't get discouraged when I look at something that needs changed or taken apart.  I guess my confidence comes from many many projects gone right and projects gone wrong.  I hate spending a penny on labor for anything, be it my guitars or my truck or my motorcycle you name it I will wrench on it.  I guess I recommend it to anyone because the only way to get better at something is to practice.  I wouldn't try this on a $400 neck for the first time.  I must have looked at my buddies neck for a month before I decided to get the drill out.  I wouldn't have ever thought to ge the acetone out if I hadn't found out that it will soften the plastic.  (I spilled some nail polish remover on a pickguard once and it made it all gummy that was how I figured it would work for the dots)  But anyway I think that even an absolute novice can handle this.  Or as someone else said, it might be easier to just spend a little extra jingle to get exactly what you want. 

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

In a repair shop, much more feasable.

In a production shop, not so feasable.

 

[stubhead]

If you're O.K. with flat rocks on a slightly curved neck surface, there are ways to match the level of the inlays to the surrounding wood - but you have to be good at finicky detail work. If you want them perfectly radiused, you're looking at sanding rocks, in between frets... either way, it's a lot of work. I vote for ordering the neck you want custom.