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Old Charvel

exaN

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Hi, I recently brought out of the dust my first ever guitar that I bought used 6 years ago, a ~1992 Charvel.

However, it never stays in tune whenever I touch the Jackson licensed Floyd (by Schaller). I don't know if it's caused by the actual bridge or a crack near the neck that seems more like a finish crack than a wood crack.

Otherwise it plays superbly and I'd like to mod it completely. Would I just be throwing money away? Because I guess there's no guarantee a new bridge will retro fit nor that it's the tuning problem. Here are some pics, you guys tell me:

Tremolo cavity, if you guys can tell if I could retro fit another one:
6734822charvelroute.jpg


The bridge:
1103152charvelbridge.jpg

7095622charvelbridge2.jpg

9680022charvelbridge3.jpg


The crack:
617869fissure.jpg


Thanks in advance
 
Ewwhhhh, that's a nasty crack, it looks more than just in the finish. I would dare to say there in lies your problem, I don't believe it's the Floyd...

As for a new bridge, a real Floyd should fit no problem... :icon_thumright:
 
Ok thanks, but when I removed the neck, the crack doesn't show up from inside the pocket so it doesn't seem to be that deep.

So for the bridge, that should fit in perfectly right http://www.warmoth.com/Schaller-Floyd-Rose-Tremolo-Gold-P579C694.aspx ?
 
exaN said:
Ok thanks, but when I removed the neck, the crack doesn't show up from inside the pocket so it doesn't seem to be that deep.

So for the bridge, that should fit in perfectly right http://www.warmoth.com/Schaller-Floyd-Rose-Tremolo-Gold-P579C694.aspx ?
The only way to know for sure is to remove the finish, and yes that bridge should fit no problem... :icon_thumright:
 
even if it does not go sll the way thru, if it is into the wood and not just the finish, it could decrease the neck pocket strength.

Love my charvel...1986...with a kahler.  Those guitar were build really well.  Is your a USA mondel or overseas?  Both have good build quality but the USA made ones hold their value a little better.
 
dmraco said:
even if it does not go sll the way thru, if it is into the wood and not just the finish, it could decrease the neck pocket strength.

Love my charvel...1986...with a kahler.  Those guitar were build really well.  Is your a USA mondel or overseas?  Both have good build quality but the USA made ones hold their value a little better.

Its got the toothpaste logo so I believe it's important.

What if I insert screws from behind as so:
3249612charvelscrews.jpg


Would that solve the problem if it's coming from there?
 
DangerousR6 said:
Ewwhhhh, that's a nasty crack, it looks more than just in the finish. I would dare to say there in lies your problem, I don't believe it's the Floyd...

As for a new bridge, a real Floyd should fit no problem... :icon_thumright:

Totally agree.  A buddy of mine swapped out his Jackson Floyd with an OFR with no problem.
The knife edges on yours look fine.  Sometimes if they are mangled, that can cause tuning issues (returning back to neutral).
There are several variants of the Jackson Floyd though.

That definitely is a nasty crack.  Personally, I'd be more inclined to try a repair with a clamp (perhaps if there is movement in the crack) and thin superglue.
The finish is likely to suffer though.  You could saturate the inside of the neck pocket with some thin superglue.
Even if you have a very fine crack in the inside of the neck pocket, thin superglue would soak in.

Do you know what the body is made of?  Likely alder or poplar.

Can't tell if there is any wiggle in the neck pocket though.  With the neck on, if you push it forward and back, can you see any movement at the crack?

Really depends on how far you want to get into it.  

James
 
Try carefully flexing the neck in the direction of the crack and see if it opens up any. If it does, maybe applying a little wood glue into the crack while opened would do the trick. Just let it close back up on the glue and either lightly clamp it or put a weight on it until it cures.

I don't think that crack is causing your tuning problems as the string tension would keep that crack closed against itself. Check the nut and bridge string locks for wear or clamping issues.
 
Death by Uberschall said:
Try carefully flexing the neck in the direction of the crack and see if it opens up any. If it does, maybe applying a little wood glue into the crack while opened would do the trick. Just let it close back up on the glue and either lightly clamp it or put a weight on it until it cures.

I don't think that crack is causing your tuning problems as the string tension would keep that crack closed against itself. Check the nut and bridge string locks for wear or clamping issues.

Yeah after all this guitar is over 15 years old, it could be due to the hardware wear.
 
Death by Uberschall said:
I don't think that crack is causing your tuning problems as the string tension would keep that crack closed against itself. Check the nut and bridge string locks for wear or clamping issues.

Good point.
 
Watershed said:
DangerousR6 said:
Ewwhhhh, that's a nasty crack, it looks more than just in the finish. I would dare to say there in lies your problem, I don't believe it's the Floyd...

As for a new bridge, a real Floyd should fit no problem... :icon_thumright:

Totally agree.  A buddy of mine swapped out his Jackson Floyd with an OFR with no problem.
The knife edges on yours look fine.  Sometimes if they are mangled, that can cause tuning issues (returning back to neutral).
There are several variants of the Jackson Floyd though.

That definitely is a nasty crack.  Personally, I'd be more inclined to try a repair with a clamp (perhaps if there is movement in the crack) and thin superglue.
The finish is likely to suffer though.  You could saturate the inside of the neck pocket with some thin superglue.
Even if you have a very fine crack in the inside of the neck pocket, thin superglue would soak in.

Do you know what the body is made of?  Likely alder or poplar.

Can't tell if there is any wiggle in the neck pocket though.  With the neck on, if you push it forward and back, can you see any movement at the crack?

Really depends on how far you want to get into it.  

James

I have no idea what's the core wood, I think there's a maple laminate top, but it also shows on the back, would it be all maple?

So in the end, do you guys think I would be throwing money away if I was to mod it?
 
It's probably pretty unlikely that it is solid flame maple.
I'd be amazed actually.

Back to your question though:
It depends on what sort of mods you are looking to do.
A OFR, pickups etc, could always be transferred to a new guitar.
You could buy a new body for it, if the body turned out to be the culprit.

I'd probably try to sort out the tuning issues a bit better.  I'd try the superglue thing, and really inspect the bridge.
In the end, a guitar is basically a collection of parts, and you could move the parts (mods) over to a new guitar.

James
 
Watershed said:
It's probably pretty unlikely that it is solid flame maple.
I'd be amazed actually.

Back to your question though:
It depends on what sort of mods you are looking to do.
A OFR, pickups etc, could always be transferred to a new guitar.
You could buy a new body for it, if the body turned out to be the culprit.

I'd probably try to sort out the tuning issues a bit better.  I'd try the superglue thing, and really inspect the bridge.
In the end, a guitar is basically a collection of parts, and you could move the parts (mods) over to a new guitar.

James

Yeah but I'd really like to keep this body shape :\ . Maybe the knife edges on the bridge aren't lubricated enough.

I would change the pickups, tuners, bridge, knobs, switch etc.. basically building another guitar from the original neck and body.

I'll try to apply some wood glue tonight and see if it works out.
 
Hmm, gotcha.
My personal concern with wood glue is that it will not soak deep enough into the crack to really add to the structural integrity.
You may be able to thin it (wood glue) out, but the reason I suggested thin superglue, is that it does a great job of getting into tight cracks such as this.

Isn't it a soloist shape?  I realize the heel has a unique route, but overall I thought it was a flat top soloist.
 
Is it a 375, like this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Charvel-Model-375-Body-Loaded_W0QQitemZ260505495240QQcmdZViewItemQQptZGuitar_Accessories?hash=item3ca75666c8
 
Yes James, it is exactly this model!

But like I said, if I insert screws into the back of the guitar, would that solve the crack problem along with the thin glue (just in case the glue isn't enough)?
 
One of my old guitars had a licenced Floyd on it, and I had tuning issues.  Turns out the knife edges were worn and rounded off, so the trem had more than one "neutral" spot.

Replaced the trem with a Schaller Floyd, and voila!  The tuning issues dissapeared.
 
exaN said:
Yes James, it is exactly this model!

But like I said, if I insert screws into the back of the guitar, would that solve the crack problem along with the thin glue (just in case the glue isn't enough)?

I wish I knew man, I really don't though.
Personally, I would shy away from screws.
We still aren't entirely sure how bad this crack is, and if indeed that is the source of your tuning issues.
DBU did make a good point as did AndyG.
I could be the knife edges.  They seem OK from the pictures, but its not the best shot.
 
AndyG said:
One of my old guitars had a licenced Floyd on it, and I had tuning issues.  Turns out the knife edges were worn and rounded off, so the trem had more than one "neutral" spot.

Replaced the trem with a Schaller Floyd, and voila!  The tuning issues dissapeared.

Yea after inspecting the edges, it seems like they're kind worn off a bit and uneven as you might be able to see here:

8613472charvelbridgeedge.jpg

7710052charvelbridgeedge2.jpg
 
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