New member w/ build ideas seeks advice!

[NOIZmaker]

Hello all! This is my first post here, and it’s a pretty long one as I want to be as comprehensive as I can be in order to not have you all have to ask me for info that I can give in my original post… I’ll start by saying that I’ve been through all 40 pages in the ‘Tips & Tricks’ section for relevant reading and a few other threads besides, so I think I should hopefully only be posting with questions not asked already. If some of my questions have been answered elsewhere, then I have probably repeated the question here because I’m unsure if there are any components that cause this particular build to warrant a different answer due to incompatibility or something, if not, apologies.

It will be my first ever build, and I’ve been spending a fair bit of time designing (and researching) this guitar I want. Aesthetically, it’s inspired by the Guild S-300, Gibson Firebird, Rickenbacker 4001, Ibanez Iceman and a few other instruments, however, I aim for a pretty custom guitar that doesn’t really function much like those I mention. I’ll add that I mostly play heavy stuff – particularly doom, stoner, death, thrash and black metal, often combining those styles within a single song, and I use heavy strings dropped to C.

The neck will be Warmoth and I am yet to decide how to go about building the body. The purpose of this post is to ask in general for advice and if anyone sees any issues with it, for example, incompatibility of components, missed something out, etc… So, the specs as I think (in my ignorance) I would like them on the final build are below, and I’ve attached a rough mock-up picture (not to scale) that I have made of the front:

NECK:
Tiltback Strat (or Warhead) w/ reversed headstock (modified slightly)
24-3/4" scale, ‘Thin C’ profile, roasted maple shaft & ebony fretboard
10”-16” compound radius w/ 22 extra jumbo SS frets
Cream binding, black side dots & white pearloid block inlays
Either a light oil or light satin finish (clear)
Double-expanding truss rod w/ clear plastic truss cover
Either a stainless steel nut or perhaps the Zero Glide nut

BODY:
Mahogany core & maple top, w/ stained sunburst & satin or oil finish

PICKUPS:
Neck: Zombie Dust P90/rail hybrid (kinda like SD P-Rails)
Bridge: Zombie Dust Doomster (both being custom wound for me)

CONTROLS:
Seymour Duncan Triple Shot mounting ring (neck only)
Momentary killswitch built into scratchplate
2-way pickup selector (on/on)
Push/push neck (volume and treble cut)
Push/push bridge (volume and boost)

HARDWARE, ETC… :
Alpaca gearless tuners (similar to Steinbergers on Firebirds)
Hipshot Baby Grand bridge
Witches’ hat style knobs
Straplocks and locking input jack

And now a few specific questions…

1. Will Warmoth do a reverse tiltback Warhead for me?

2. I want where the strings contact at the nut to be made of the same material as the frets and saddles, has anyone had any experience with SS or Zero Glide nuts?

3. If rear-routing for most of the electronics, will it be an issue for me to mount a killswitch on the scratchplate?

4. I never use both pups together, anyone got any reason I shouldn’t use a 2-way selector on this build? Also, as you can see in the attached pic, I’ve not included it, as I don’t yet know where I want it.

5. I want both knobs to be push/push, now I know they wear more easily than push/pull but they are cheap parts that I don’t mind replacing every now and again for the ease of having push/push. Anyone got any reasons aside that I shouldn’t? Or that what I suggested above wouldn’t be ideal? Also, I’ve never experimented with pots (I heard it’s a gateway to harder electronics) so will be trying a few out on this when the time comes.

6. Anyone had any experience with the Alpacas or Steinbergers? I’d quite like the string pull to be straight also, will I encounter any problems here? Link to Alpaca tuners here: https://www.etsy.com/il-en/listing/464275278/steinberger-replacement-gearless-linear?ref=shop_home_feat_1

7. Is there any reason to NOT go with the bridge of choice? I understand that with the length of the bass strings being longer both behind the nut (due to reverse headstock) and the saddles that I will get extra ‘give’ for wide vibratos and bends, will it perhaps be too much?

8. How should I determine where to put the upper straplock?

Apologies if this is a bit much all at once, I hope to hear from some of you soon!

 

[TBurst Std]

First welcome

Next, some random thoughts:

Scale length of neck. Seems a compromise on your tuning choice.

Don’t know if they do a Tilt back warhead.  A call to the W should get you that answer. I do know they do tilt back strat necks AND people have recut them to warhead shapes.

Curious as to tilt back desire.

As far as zero frets,the W doesn’t do them. I would suggest researching what you desire and the required nut slot and placement, then call the W to see if it can be done. They do cut slots for the LSR nut and Floyd nut, both of which are metal.

I understand why you mean about string length behind the bridge and nut. I have felt it as well and was a believer.  Physics tell us otherwise though.  The tension of a string to achieve a given pitch is specified by scale length.  The difference is the break angle that affects what you are feeling. (IE that’s why a top wrapped LP feels looser then the tp is set atthe same height). Yes I proved it to myself and proved myself wrong.

 

[BigSteve22]

Welcome! You certainly ain't planning a standard axe by any means. Should be an interesting build to watch. I have a little input on a couple of your questions.

I used a ZeroGlide nut on my Telecaster. Always like the zero fret on my old, (borrowed), Gretsch Anniversary, and wanted to give it a try. It has worked out well, but there are a couple of things to keep in mind. ZeroGlide makes nuts to fit a standard Fender nut slot as cut by Warmoth. But, because the fret tang sits against the front edge of the slot, the crown of the fret is moved back by 1/2 the width of the fret tang, so you either have to use one of the supplied, offset crown, nickle-silver frets, or modify the slot to accept a standard, centered crown, S/S fret. The difference is only about .010", but I swear I could hear the difference in intonation when I tried a standard fret without modifying the slot, so I used on of their frets. Can't tell the difference between the N/S fret in the nut, and the S/S frets on the rest of the neck. Of course, YMMV....

Another thing to keep in mind, is that the supplied frets only come in a limited variety of sizes. So, if you plan on not modifying the slot, you may be limited in your fret choices for the rest of the neck. I use S/S 6230 frets on the neck and finally settled on the .043" ZeroGlide fret. Just note the the largest supplied fret is .051".

As for the 2-way switch, I don't see any problem doing that, but why limit yourself? If you should decide at some point in the future that you might like to use both pups together......

Good luck with your build. Keep us posted, and don't forget the pix!

 

[NOIZmaker]

Hey guys, thanks for the replies! Just getting my head around using the forum so hope my response is suitable...

TBurst Std, thanks for the welcome!
The scale length has never been an issue for me, as I've mostly played LP/SG type guitars anyway and they also happen to be the most popular guitars for the doom/sludge/stoner type stuff that makes up the majority of my playing, Tony Iommi never had issues with this scale length and he uses extra light strings tuned down. Aside of tension, do you see any other reason I may prefer to use the 25.5" scale instead with this set up, given that most my guitars have been 24.75" in the past?
I want the tiltback because I really don't like the idea of adjusting the truss anywhere but at the head, and am also considering some form of contoured heel. Would this be incompatible with anything else listed do you know?
That's interesting what you say about the behind nut/bridge length, I read a long post (I think here? May have to dig it out) that explained that it does affect tension, specifically, that we have measurable tension and perceived tension. Not sure I truly understood all the physics, but it seemed legit at the time. Thanks again for the reply!

BigSteve22, thanks for the welcome!
Yeah, definitely not standard for an off-the-shelf guitar but I've always been one to modify my guitars anyway as I've never been even close to 100% satisfied with the functionality, and also I like to tinker and experiment!
I just double-checked the Zero Glide page, and they offer a variety of slots, including Gibson-style, and they now also offer the offset tang frets in SS, however, they don't exactly match up to the dimensions of Warmoth's available fret wires, so will have to have a think about that.
The 2-way selector just makes more sense to me... I have never found a use for both pups at the same time, this is pretty much the only way I use my pups...
BRIDGE - pretty much always at 10, occasionally rolled down for cleaner sounds.
NECK - for most my cleans I have this rolled down with tone at 10. For fuzzy stoner sounds it's generally volume at 10 with tone at 0. I mostly only use the selector to switch between clean and filth, and I want to have piece of mind that every time I hit it, it will go exactly where I want it to, which is why I'm considering a rocker switch as opposed to a switch with a shaft.
Thanks again for the reply!

Will definitely be posting pics as I go, I just want to make sure it's as tight on the drawing board as I can get it before I start throwing money and tools at nice wood and parts! Cheers again guys!

 

[Rick]

1. Call them.

2. Me, no.

3. I don't see any.

4. I don't see why you want to limit yourself, when you can have, neck, bridge, plus neck + bridge in parallel, and neck + bridge in series out of phase.  But it's your playing style so what i think shouldn't matter.

5. Push / Push are great ... no worries.

6.  No experience from me.  I'm a hipshot man.

7. Unknown.

8. Your own taste.  I'd look at pics to see how others did it.

Zombie Dust Doomster ... what a great name, never heard of it before.  Sounds like the perfect pickup for nordic doom rock.

 

[TBurst Std]

Hello,

I only mentioned scale length due to
Your desired tuning.  I know tuned down a full step with 10-52 on a 24.75 scale starts to feel real spongy/floppy to me.

As far as tiltback, the modern design with the side adjust is an option. Set the raw relief (according to instruction), then mount and string.  The side adjust can 99% of the time handle the relief adjustments you desire. 

The post about tension may be mine LOL.  I proved myself wrong.  The difference in feel is due to take away angles not length of string behind bridge/nut.  (Yes I did a prelim Test with my LP, tip wrapped vs not BUT making sure the tp contact point was the same relative height to the saddles.  Then I hobo built a contraption to further test.  Yeppers, string tension was constant based upon static and equal tonal deflection.

 

[Zhaezzy]

      Well for neck you might want to look into a Nomad neck which comes reversed and tiltback standard it is based on the explorer neck but I have one it is pretty nice looking. Roasted maple requires no finish on it nor do some exotics I like padouk necks a lot great feel to them.
    As far as where the truss rod adjustment goes I actually like it in the back. (no smartass comments) The guitar I have with that kind of adjustment never needs adjusting. Your mileage may vary.
      I have read some reviews of the triple shot mounting rings and while I like the concept the reviews were not favorable. So you might want to opt for 3 position dpdt mini toggles.
  Those tuners are interesting you would not need string trees with those on a non tiltback headstock.
    As far as mounting killswitches that is up to you. The body will probably have to be shaped by you since it is a custom shape you can order the body rear routed with all the holes and neck pockets and jackplates and you have to get on a bandsaw and cut the shape and then shape it.

 

[BigSteve22]

I almost forgot that I previously posted a full review/description of my adventures with a ZeroGlide nut installation-

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=28874.msg409211#msg409211

Also, and I know it's probably not an option most consider, but when I want a lower tuning, say 1/2 to a full step down, I use a EXH Pitch Fork. With proper EQ, it sounds quite good, no re-tuning, and no sloppy feel due to lowered tension on a 24.75" scale neck. IMHO.....

 

[fdesalvo]

Welcome!

I’ve noting to contribute at the moment, but your build sounds fascinating. Good to have some flame throwers being put on the table around here.

 

[rgand]

Welcome to the forum. This sounds like a fun project. Looking forward to your posts.

 

[Seamas]

I understand why you mean about string length behind the bridge and nut. I have felt it as well and was a believer.  Physics tell us otherwise though. 

I had the same experience.

It was explained to me by someone who know far more about it than I do so my reaction was like Nigel Tufnel saying "but this goes up to eleven".