Neck, Series, Bridge Wiring
- Thread starter minions
- Start date
Firebird211
Hero Member
- Messages
- 734
:icon_scratch: That's a little different, but I see that it does give you all three settings as the contacts move. I guess it would depend on how you hook up the switch, but I almost think you could accomplish the same thing with an on/off/on toggle. The center "off" position would allow the two pickups to be in series easily. The only thing I would worry about is the physical size "style" of the switch vs whatever guitar it is applied to.
Firebird211
Hero Member
- Messages
- 734
I think the way he has depicted the switch in this drawing is a little misrepresented. He has stated that the switch has three positions (on/on/on), even though, the diagram looks more like a SPDT. As it is pictured now, the Neck is shorted, but the bridge has the circuit. If the switch were to move in the middle where it doesn't contact either, both pickups are in series. If the switch is thrown the opposite, the bridge gets shorted out, and the neck gets a complete circuit. I admit this wiring setup is a little different, not something I would do, but it does keep his combination pickups in series from what I'm seeing. I'm not following how a 3 way switch has only 2 positions. I have experienced only two positions on a 2 way toggle. If its the toggle type like it sounds he is talking about, which is not great as a pickup selector, I agree. I was saying I was a little concerned about him using a toggle in this application, instead of a standard pickup selector switch that fits in whatever guitar he has. :confused4: If the neck and the bridge were together in a humbucker, the switching would be a coil selector. I can see what Jusatele is talking about and it's probably a typo on the "3 way" switch, and pickup selectors that I have ever used werent' connected to ground that way either. The standard wiring combines pickups in parallel, this way does series.
Jusatele
Hero Member
- Messages
- 2,953
the diagram for the switch he is using is what throws me, it has a common, the base of the arrow, and 2 poles, the positions the arrow can point to. As it is wired now, in current switch only the bridge will operate, the neck is a loop that gets bypassed (electricity seeks the shortest path) and thrown the other way the Neck operates.
A 3 "POLE" switch is what he is tryng to represent? well then he needs a common for the out put, which he has not there. A 3 pole would have 4 points, common, 1, 2, 3, . One thing you have to remember, a 3 pole switch has no off, only single pole single throw switches have off, the rest only redirect the current, a single pole single throw ids off or on, a 3 pole is 1, 2 or 3, something is always on.
So if that is the diagram, we need to know which pole is common, and add another pole, so we can straiten out the wiring, plus, we use 2 pole switches not single poles for 2 pickups
A 3 "POLE" switch is what he is tryng to represent? well then he needs a common for the out put, which he has not there. A 3 pole would have 4 points, common, 1, 2, 3, . One thing you have to remember, a 3 pole switch has no off, only single pole single throw switches have off, the rest only redirect the current, a single pole single throw ids off or on, a 3 pole is 1, 2 or 3, something is always on.
So if that is the diagram, we need to know which pole is common, and add another pole, so we can straiten out the wiring, plus, we use 2 pole switches not single poles for 2 pickups
Firebird211
Hero Member
- Messages
- 734
I have no idea what minion had in mind for this. :dontknow:
Firebird211
Hero Member
- Messages
- 734
Maybe this is why we don't do it this way. :laughing7: I imagined aside from how the switch is drawn that he was just utilizing three out of six connection points of a DPDT on/on/on and depending on how he arranged them could cause a disconnection in the middle position, thats why I figured on/off/on would cause an isolation in the middle position. Or for the love of god why use a toggle as a pickup selector this way. Good thing he is not switching high voltage. :sign13: I would say he want's them in phase.
Firebird211
Hero Member
- Messages
- 734
I will be taking off for the night too, so I hope we can get more heads in on this. :help:
bob7point7
Senior Member
- Messages
- 272
Your schematic will work, but the toggle switch should be on-off-on SPDT (or DPDT, just use one pole). Many Danelectros are actually wired this way. A standard size toggle switch uses about the same mounting hole size as a Les Paul switch, but you may have to bend or trim the contacts depending on your control cavity depth. Of course a mini toggle would fit with no trouble.
Firebird211
Hero Member
- Messages
- 734
Cool beans bob, I thought I was going crazy for a minute, and didn't want to give this guy bad information. When I looked at minions circuit I saw three states that were very similar to something that I have derived from Seymour Duncan's P-rails. It wasn't my master switch, but I set up some lace hemi's, which have a completely different color code. I drew up the individual states of the circuit to verify that I was doing it correctly. Here is the P-rail on/off/on toggle diagram, and if you look right at the toggle, you will see the similarity of what minion is doing in his diagram. Of course, ignore the three position pickup selector, and the fact that there are two humbuckers. I was treating minions two pickups just like they were one humbucker to apply this theory to them. :icon_thumright:
Wow I am so dumb haha. I have a guitar with a P-Rails with the exact same switch. I should've just drawn my diagram up based on that, but instead I spent about 30 minutes just trying to figure out how to even begin to draw it. But thanks Firebird, and everyone else. This really helps.
Firebird211
Hero Member
- Messages
- 734
No problem, man. :icon_thumright:
Firebird211
Hero Member
- Messages
- 734
so that was what you were up too. :glasses9:
Similar threads
