Mooncaster: wisdom needed

CrowGhost

Newbie
Messages
5
Hey folks,

I’m a lefty and I’ve always wanted a starcaster so I just purchased a mooncaster with the matching mooncaster neck, and some Novak WRHB pickups. I had some questions:

I used the same woods (except the fretboard, which is ebony) as the original starcaster- with the warmoth mooncaster neck, is this guitar balanced or neck heavy?

Also, I’ve read it’s a major pain getting that toggle switch in the lower horn area. Can someone please shoot me a link to the proper switch to make my life a little easier?

Finally, is this a good replacement for a semi-hollow? I owned a d’angelico DC and I liked the sound and feel but that neck was considerably heavier than the body, that drove me nuts on stage.

Thanks!
 
Hi and Welcome to the forum...

Switch for lower horn toggle...

https://warmoth.com/index.php/hardware/parts/switches/3-way-angled-toggle

Per your other questions:

Balance will depend on woods/ hardware and their weight so too many variables to be definitive. Hopefully some Mooncaster users may be able to comment on their experiences.

Per your final question on is it a good replacement for something like a D'Angelico I think this is going to be subjective in the end.

I have also added a link below to a thread started recently for the benefit of new members with links to guidelines, build thread, tips etc.

Welcome to the Forum
 
Welcome to the forum.

As for the toggle switch, might I suggest Dimarzio’s EP1111?
It’s small, it’s a 4PDT switch, meaning it could give you some more advanced switching options should you need them and it’ much sturdier than those original open toggle switches.

iu


 
I have a Mooncaster with Mahogany body (koa top) and a wenge/ebony neck. Not neck heavy at all.  It actually my favorite guitar.  And yes, get the switch in the lower horn was a pain in the a**.  My switch is still rotated slightly so the action is not parallel to the centerline, like was my goal.
 
Thank you all for your help! I ordered the switch linked above!

Godzooky75 said:
I have a Mooncaster with Mahogany body (koa top) and a wenge/ebony neck. Not neck heavy at all.  It actually my favorite guitar.  And yes, get the switch in the lower horn was a pain in the a**.  My switch is still rotated slightly so the action is not parallel to the centerline, like was my goal.

Thank you for your response as well! Do you find it swims with the likes of jazz boxes and 335s?
 
By build construction alone, no.

The Mooncaster is a solid piece of wood routed out then a top veneer place upon it. Think how Rickenbacker makes a 360. (Except the sealing piece is the back, not the front)

An ES335 is a true semi hollow.  Not solid wood to start with . Individual pieces of  Sides, backs, and tops, all unique pieces , are glued together in that process a center block is glued in.

For most jazz boxes, the are true hollow. So minus the last step of gluing in a center block.  Also jazz boxes tend to be much deeper. 
 
TBurst Std said:
By build construction alone, no.

The Mooncaster is a solid piece of wood routed out then a top veneer place upon it. Think how Rickenbacker makes a 360. (Except the sealing piece is the back, not the front)

An ES335 is a true semi hollow.  Not solid wood to start with . Individual pieces of  Sides, backs, and tops, all unique pieces , are glued together in that process a center block is glued in.

For most jazz boxes, the are true hollow. So minus the last step of gluing in a center block.  Also jazz boxes tend to be much deeper.

Interesting, thanks! Always wanted a starcaster but alas, I am a lefty. I figured the mooncaster was a close as I could get.
 
Well I never researched the build structure of a Starcaster, but I believe it may have been closer to a 335.  True hollow body and semi hollow body electrics share much more in common with acoustic guitars.

Picture 2 side pieces of wood. Also A piece of wood for a top, another for the back. Now glue it all together.
Semi hollow (335) there is an extra piece/plank of wood glued in to attach the back to the front.
 
https://youtu.be/NEuqgZzKxC4

Go to about 2:14

You’ll see what I mean.  A solid piece of wood, (sides and either top or back) is routed out majorly.  The the missing piece is glued on top.  HUGE construction difference from a semi or full hollow body
 
OP, I've now built 3 Warmoths, but the Mooncaster is one that I'm very intrigued by, and if I make another, the Mooncaster will probably be the one.

I've inquired about this body a few times.  From what I gather, it's roughly a smidge bigger than a Strat, but smaller than a Starcaster.  No where near as big as a 335.  Comparables would be somewhere in the realm of a Tele Thinline or Gibson Midtown.

Good luck and let us know what you go with.

 
I hadn't thought about this ... but what case would you use with a Mooncaster?  would a strat case work?
 
There is a thread on mooncaster cases somewhere.  It's an old thread and I'm not sure if it ended with a good solution.
 
Mayfly said:
There is a thread on mooncaster cases somewhere.  It's an old thread and I'm not sure if it ended with a good solution.

I just looked at it earlier and it did not have a conclusive ending so I did not post a link. Someone had used a 335 case but it looked drowned. I suspect a Strat/Tele size type case which does not have a shaped inner but more of a rectangular space for the body might work.
 
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