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L5S Question

LesPaulGuy

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OK, I'm new at this so if this is a stupid question please forgive me...

I'm about to pull the trigger on a L5S hollow body, dual F-Hole but here's my dilema.  I'm a little reluctant to have the control access on the back of the guitar as I feel like it might take away from the resonance of the guitar.  But without it I'm a little puzzled on how I'd get the volume / tone / PU selector switch installed (not to mention the pickup wiring).  Looking at a ES-335 I can see how one could get at MOST of the controls through the closet F-Hole but it looks like it could be VERY tricky.

Any experts out there willing to share any tricks?  Or is worrying about the rear access something I shouldn't be worrying about?

Thanks
 
You shouldn't worry about it because Warmoth routes it from the back, so it's not optional.  ;)
 
Didn't the original L5S have a rear control plate? I definitely wouldn't worry in any case.
 
According to Warmoth it is optional... and wasn't the original L5S was a solid body?  If I was looking at a solid body this definitely not be an issue.
 
LesPaulGuy said:
According to Warmoth it is optional

Oh, really?  Hmm, that's cool... ask anyone who's rewired a 335, though, and they'll tell you it ain't easy.
 
Wait, is your question if you can NOT have a control plate, like the plastic thing :icon_scratch:

Why would you not want that, it seems like that would make everything really difficult.
 
On regular hollowbodies you can get the controls in through one of the pickup cavities.  On Warmoth's L5S this isn't possible due to how its constructed.

The unplugged acoustic volume and resonance of my Warmoth L5S is up there with any Gretsch or 335 I've played.  That said, it's no acoustic or true archtop (floating pickups), but it was never meant to be that.  

Unfortunately I have no basis to compare it to other L5S's without rear access.  IMHO it's no big issue, although I did get wooden covers made by Phil at www.inventingshed.com .  I sent him mine and he made some out of myrtlewood.
 
Blue313 said:
On regular hollowbodies you can get the controls in through one of the pickup cavities.  On Warmoth's L5S this isn't possible due to how its constructed.

The unplugged acoustic volume and resonance of my Warmoth L5S is up there with any Gretsch or 335 I've played.  That said, it's no acoustic or true archtop (floating pickups), but it was never meant to be that.  

Unfortunately I have no basis to compare it to other L5S's without rear access.  IMHO it's no big issue, although I did get wooden covers made by Phil at www.inventingshed.com .  I sent him mine and he made some out of myrtlewood.

So you have an Warmoth L5S with two f-holes and the rear access route?

I agree, it isn't intended to be an acoustic or archtop and I'm not expecting it to be.  It just looked to me like there was a lot of open air with the rear access but if you have one and are happy with it then I think that's the route (no pun intended) I'll go.
 
Blue313 said:
Yep, shes a beaut too.

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=8344.0
That she is!

Did you drill the holes for the tone / volume controls yourself?  How about the output jack?
 
LesPaulGuy said:
That she is!

Did you drill the holes for the tone / volume controls yourself?  How about the output jack?
I did the tone and volumes, but Warmoth did the side jack.
 
Blue313 said:
LesPaulGuy said:
That she is!

Did you drill the holes for the tone / volume controls yourself?  How about the output jack?
I did the tone and volumes, but Warmoth did the side jack.

Any tricks on drilling the holes... I'm petrified about ruining the finish.
 
I taped the area off with blue painters tape and used a DIY template.  Started with a 1/8" pilot hole with a brad point bit, and finished with a forstner bit.  
 
Blue313 said:
I taped the area off with blue painters tape and used a DIY template.  Started with a 1/8" pilot hole with a brad point bit, and finished with a forstner bit.  

Last question... I hope.  Did you drill from the outside in?  I assume there's much less risk if splintering the finished product that way.

Thanks
 
Yup, I went from the outside in. 

One other tidbit.  You need to be careful of the bottom of the hole.  If it isnt braced you might splinter it when the drill punches through.  I put a piece of scrap wood inside the cavity and just drilled straight through the laminate top and into the scrap.
 
Blue313 said:
Yup, I went from the outside in. 

One other tidbit.  You need to be careful of the bottom of the hole.  If it isnt braced you might splinter it when the drill punches through.  I put a piece of scrap wood inside the cavity and just drilled straight through the laminate top and into the scrap.
Excellent - thanks much.
 
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