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How much I have to spend on good neck?

endrju.m

Junior Member
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Hi, this is my first post here

I'm in the middle of ordering things for my first Warmoth build. My plan is to build Strat with rear routed mahogany/maple top body and maple/ebony neck.

I was browsing spotlight necks and after seeing that ultra nice 700$ neck, I started wondering.. Apart from that great AAA flame maple wow factor is there great difference between that one and 400$ neck that is only a bit less eye catching one.. I'm totally aware about fact that different pieces of wood will sound different, event if they are at the same quality level..

So the question are:
[list type=decimal]
[*]How much did you spend on neck and are you satisfied?
[*]Is it posible to differentiate good and better ones by looking at the their photos? If so where to look at?
[/list]

ps. sorry for my sloppy english (I'm foreigner)
 
I think the general consensus here is that all Warmoth necks are top-quality.  People generally pay more for exotic woods (which can even out, because a lot of them don't need to be finished) or for custom aesthetic options, like binding or fancy inlays, or headstock veneers.

I think you'll be satisfied with a Warmoth neck without breaking the bank.  Personally, I got a maple/bloodwood neck, which is similar to ebony, and it was very resonably priced.
 
I agree with Mr. Voodoo - all Warmoth necks are of very high quality. I've dealt with quite a few of them over the years for myself and customers, and have never seen one that I wouldn't hold up as a fine example of how necks should be made.

What changes their price is the rarity of the wood, not its quality. For instance, black Ebony isn't as common as Pau Ferro, which isn't as common as Indian Rosewood, which isn't as common as Maple, and so on. Then, different cuts of wood are more rare. A highly figured Maple (curly, quilted, birdseye) will cost more than a clear cut. Also, various detail work adds. Things like fancier inlays, veneered headstocks, special frets, better nuts, finishes, etc. all add up. None of those things changes the quality of the neck, just it's appearance and feel.

For performance, some basic things I wouldn't want to go without are the dual truss rod as used in their "Pro" series necks, stainless steel frets, and graphtech nuts. Past that, most choices involve aesthetics.
 
$700 for a neck alone seems awfully expensive to me, but I guess the construction, choice of wood and finish (binding, inlays and lacquer) justify it.

I am waiting for my first neck to arrive, $240, vintage modern, flame maple, SS fretwire, pre-installed graphtech nut, no finish. To me the neck is the most important part of a guitar so I'm okay with spending a fair amount for it, but still I wouldn't shell out the price of a good guitar on a single neck. And I actually think that even a "basic" $157 Warmoth maple neck can be great (provided that is what you desire), and may not "sound" or play worse than a $700 neck.

Don't forget you can't expect a piece of wood to sound better than a cheaper one. You can expect it to look better in your eyes, but you never know how a particular neck or wood sounds/feels before you've tried it.

To answer tyour title more directly : you don't have to spend much to have a good neck. But you can spend as much as you want to have one that fits your taste.
 
Considering what it would cost to have a guitar custom built by hand, into the several thousand dollars range, $700 for a Custom Shop Quality neck that is Q.C'd excellently, is quite a value, and therefore not something to be considered "expensive".

"Expensive" is a subjective term.  In relation to value, it implies that something costs far more than it is worth.

I would not consider Warmoth products to be expensive in relation to the quality that is ensured.

I've had a custom hand made instrument built.  It cost me $2500 17 years ago.  To price it by the same luthier now, was $4k-$5k. 

Compare that against Warmoth prices, Warmoth wins.  No difference in quality, both are stellar.  $$ compared to the quality, Warmoth saves you tons of $$ without sacrificing quality.
 
Having taken the "budget" route for my last build, I can say the necks are top quality no matter how high you want to go.  I just did a maple/ebony pretty basic neck from showcase and finished the maple with some dye and  tru-oil and called it good.  I think I spent about $200 and once I got the nut right, the neck is fantastic and I love it.
 
TonyFlyingSquirrel said:
Considering what it would cost to have a guitar custom built by hand, into the several thousand dollars range, $700 for a Custom Shop Quality neck that is Q.C'd excellently, is quite a value, and therefore not something to be considered "expensive".

"Expensive" is a subjective term.  In relation to value, it implies that something costs far more than it is worth.

I would not consider Warmoth products to be expensive in relation to the quality that is ensured.

Absolutely agree with Tony. If you're building a custom guitar, get what you REALLY want. In the long run, it will be worth any "extra" cost. Plus, as everyone else has said, Warmoth builds high-quality parts, and you really can't go wrong as long as you do your research and select the wood combos and neck thickness that suits your individual wants and needs.

One other note: if you aren't confident in your setup abilities, make sure to find a good tech to help you with the finer points of assembling your new guitar and getting the neck up to its highest level of playability. A Warmoth in the wrong hands can become a Squier... But in the RIGHT hands, can become the best playing and sounding guitar you've ever held.  :icon_thumright:

Good luck, man! You're going to love your guitar once it gets to you.
 
Hey, I would like to thank you for all your input, it was very helpful. I've already decided and placed the order, thanks!
 
I paid $500 for my neck (including shipping), but you can get a good neck for half that. The price is determined by what features and options you want.
 
I know your order has already been placed but I'd like to toss my 2 cents in.

Warmoth makes great stuff regardless of the price. In my opinion, unless there is something you're specifically needing, get your neck from the Showcase. The reason I say this is because you can actually see what you're buying. Now, back to Warmoth quality, in my opinion, you can trust what you're going to get from them, and if the specs you're looking for are in the Showcase, then it falls down to looks. I like maple fingerboards so I'll use that as an example, do you prefer a reserved look with not so much figuring in the wood or do you want enough birdseyes on it that it looks like someone covered it with a bowl of oatmeal? If it's a highly figured look your after then the Showcase is the way to go. The reason I say this is because you can order a AAA grade neck but it may not look like what you had in your imagination. Case in point, on a body, our friend that got the black washed LP body recently. I totally feel for him and can appreciate his feelings when he first opened the box. He had an image in his head and that body didn't match that image. It doesn't matter that that body looks like a million bucks, which it does, it's just not the image he had in his mind and was waiting for. When you order something without being able to see it, well, that's a risk you have to be willing to take. Now, again, that has nothing to do with quality, it's all personal preference on how something looks compared to what you were expecting it to look like.

As for the prices of the necks, I'd say with Warmoth, as far as quality goes, you're going to get similar quality from a 150 dollar neck that you would in a 970 dollar neck (everyone remembers that one). The build quality is going to be there regardless of the price. The next thing it falls down to is going to be the type of woods, the grade of the wood, the figuring.... Now, I said the "grade" of the wood but I'm pretty sure that Warmoth doesn't skimp. For myself, when I go looking for a neck in the Warmoth Showcase, I set the parameters of the specs I'm looking for and then it all falls down to what it looks like. I like highly figured necks that has the figuring well balanced across the entire neck and the head. I wouldn't want something that has a clump of birdseyes at one end and then scattered here and there over the rest.

One last thing, I'm not an expert on wood so take this for what it's worth, which is something someone told me once a long time ago.....and hopefully someone here can confirm or deny this, but I heard that with flame maple necks, looking at the back, tighter flames have less tendency to warp than ones where the flames are further apart from each other.

Oh, one extra last thing, and I do know this for fact because I was a professional pool player for most of my adult life, birdseye maple can snap like a twig if there is a fault inside the wood. I don't know what the experts would call it but in the pool world we call it a "birdseye break". I've seen it dozens of times over the years. Someone has a 5,000 dollar cue, birdseye maple, and they accidentally drop their cue and it snaps right in half. Granted, you're not going to be throwing your guitar around, and pool players don't throw cues around, but accidents can happen. If you go with birdseye be very careful with it because you just never know.
MULLY
Yes, my pool cue costs more than both of my Warmoth's put together
 
I've never heard of figured Maple being more mobile than typical straight-grained stuff, outside of speculation. That is, it's not going to warp/twist/shrink on you with any more frequency. But, Maple can be surprisingly brittle. Because of that, it's tendency to "tear out" while machining is legendary. Few things will piss a woodworker off more than investing XX hours into a Maple piece and getting down to the final routing, only to have it tear out and ruin everything as there's no repairing it. It's eerie. Not many woods will do that to you. It's not a major problem as long as you maintain your tooling, but it's definitely a characteristic of that wood.

I don't have any experience with high-end cues, but I can imagine them wanting to break in unusual ways when stressed. Not a lotta girth to them, so they're structurally weak.
 
Cagey said:
I don't have any experience with high-end cues, but I can imagine them wanting to break in unusual ways when stressed. Not a lotta girth to them, so they're structurally weak.

I've seen cues break out of a fool's anger....slamming it on the table, throwing it on the ground, etc... but birdseye cues are very well known for snapping just from accidentally falling over. I've ordered quite a few custom cues over the years and every top cue maker I've talked to has given me the birdseye break speech. As for the structure of a cue, they're actually made from 3 pieces of wood. The lower part from the bumper to the grip, the grip area, and then the forearm. So, with that in mind, each piece, although not very thick, isn't very long either, so it shouldn't be weak as far as that goes. If the pieces were to come apart at the seams that would be one thing, but birdseye forearms have been known to snap right in the middle. I'm guessing a guitar neck, being much thicker, may not have that problem. I don't think I've ever heard of a neck breaking.....I mean, of course I've heard of it, but not from anyone I know.

Just re-read your post. Sorry, when I was talking about the warping I wasn't meaning figured vs straight grained. I was talking about the tiger stripes on the back of a neck and the distance between the stripes. I was told that if the stripes are closer together it has less tendency to warp. I'm not discounting what you just said, just making clear what I was talking about............and I'm very open to changing my stance on that if you tell me differently because I know you know more about that stuff than I do.
MULLY
 
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