Good thinners for Tru-oil?

[stubhead]

I know that mineral spirits, denatured alcohol and naptha can all be used to thin Tru-Oil, but I specifically want one that will help it penetrate, not just dry fastest. Naptha is really evaporative, right? Is there a functional difference between de-natured alcohol, mineral spirits, turpentine etc.? I also know that oil is used in a French polish operation, you mix them together, the oil helps create a slurry to fill grain, but then the oil is wiped off.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_polish

 

[Cagey]

Denatured alcohol has the lowest boiling point (172 F) of the three by far, so it may be the thinnest and therefore most penetrative. But, don't quote me on that - I'm just guessing.

 

[crash]

The boiling point won't tell you about the rate of evaporation.  Vapor pressure is what you need to look at.  Of those 3, the alcohol will evaporate the quickest.  Naptha or mineral spirits will work for you. I use naptha to thin tru oil.

 

[stubhead]

Well, it's the "Crashed" one I was looking at.... and I have naptha... LMII has "wet-or-dry polishing papers" and "microfinishing abrasives" and Stew-Mac has "micro finishing papers" and "3M Flexible Polishing Papers." LMII has a strong push on to sell lots and lots of it, like 15 for either $37.45 or $30.95 - seems like a lot of paper? I have plenty of the coarser, dry stuff, I just need to find out what type to use for the wet portions. I got this part, I think:

If I were to do this again from scratch, knowing what I know now.

2 coats of Birtchwood Casey sealer
1 coat Tru-oil sanded with 220 to fill the grain.
2nd coat Tru-oil sanded with 220 to fill the grain.
Possible 3rd coat Tru-oil sanded with 220 to fill the grain depending if I have missed any spots

4th coat Tru oil sanded with 320 grit and wipe off with a rag soaked with naptha (well not soaked, but you know what I mean).  This will give a smooth finish.  It is basically wet sanding, but you do end up leaving some Tru oil on the surface.
Repeat step 4 with 400 grit
Repeat with 600 grit
Repeat with 1200-1500 grit
Repeat with 3000 grit
Wet sand with 3000 grit
Wet sand with the blue 6000 grit http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers/3M_Flexible_Polishing_Papers.html
Final coat 2/3 Tru oil, 1/3 Naptha.  Use a microfiber cloth that has not been cut.
Getting that last coat is a delicate technique.  If you don't like the final coat, just go back and wet sand with the 6000 and try again

But what kinds of 220, 400, 600, 1500 etc?

 

[Cagey]

I'm a big fan of the 3M Flexible Polishing Papers. They work well, take a great deal of abuse, and come in grits up to 8K. Oddly enough, StewMac's price is better on those than LMII's.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

If alcohol will thin it, I haven't played with Tru Oil in this manner, then rubbing alcohol with evaporate a bit slower than denatured alcohol.  Acetone should work as well, and it will have very little surface tension, viscosity, and it evaporates quite quick.  The surface tension and viscosity properties should make it penetrate very fast.  Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) is a bit slower than acetone, but not much.

If you can get away with naptha, then use it.  The other solvents I mentioned have other issues as well, and they do float away fast, so only get as much as you need.
Patrick

 

[jackthehack]

What kind of wood are you applying the Tru-Oil to?

 

[stubhead]

Walnut:

I think I'm getting a good plan working here. I'm just kinda bummed about the
"synthetic steel wool" I stockpiled. The gray is mildly abrasive "OOO"), but the white is supposed to be for "polishing" only. But I rubbed it some on the upcoming neck and a bunch or particles fell out, a whole lot bigger than "smooth" would warrant. I'll be sending off to Stewie for some of the flexible 3M wet/dry paper - I have lots of that too, but it's all in varying shades of grey. Not!

 

[crash]

Just a note on the 3M polishing papers.  When I did my wet sanding with it (6000 and 8000 grit), I just cut about a 4" x 4" square and and sanded by hand, no block.  When you are sanding at this high of grit, a sanding block is not necessary.  This makes that polishing paper go a long way.