Floyd Rose Non-Fine Tuner Recessed rout... want one make it happen...

[aarontunes]

The initial R&D project is done.


HOWEVER: the Non-Fine Tuner Floyd has now been officially added to our list of off-menu bridge routs. This means anybody can get it by calling in and asking for it. It is $45 extra.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Now, I believe this route will work for the Schaller Vintage Tremolo 3801.
Anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

 

[stratamania]

The initial R&D project is done.


HOWEVER: the Non-Fine Tuner Floyd has now been officially added to our list of off-menu bridge routs. This means anybody can get it by calling in and asking for it. It is $45 extra.

Excellent news.

I was just going to suggest that the off-menu options on the Guitar Bridge Routing option page may need an update but I see it is already done...

Thanks again...

 

[stratamania]

Now, I believe this route will work for the Schaller Vintage Tremolo 3801.
Anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

I think it would fit quite well too based on the dimensions.

 

[Ragtop]

Thank you Warmoth for responding to the public, and thank you public for making this happen!

I’m planning a build with Warmoth very soon with this cut, so imagine my pleasure to find that it’s less than a week since it came to fruition!

 

[stratamania]

Thank you Ragtop and welcome to the forum. Good to hear it is being chosen by more folks...

Post some pics of the build when you get to it and spread the word about the rout.

My new body with the fine tuner rout is en route somewhere to the UK and last scanned at San Francisco.

 

[Ragtop]

Cool to see another UK guy!

What specs did you go for on the body?

I actually have a question about the design - is it a recessed rout, so the top plate sits flush on the body, or will it sit a bit proud?

 

[stratamania]

It is a recessed rout but the top plate would not sit on the body but more level with the body which I guess is what you meant.

From the prototype picture I have seen, it looks level with the top. Of course, that may vary a little dependent on individual set up.

The body specs I went for are:

Model: Stratocaster®
Orientation: Right handed
Scale: 25-1/2"
Wood: Alder
Rout: Top Rout
Pickup Rout: Strat®, Strat®, Humbucker
Controls: None
Bridge: Tremolo Back Cavity Only
Jack Rout: 7/8" (22mm) Side Jack Hole
Neck Pocket: Strat® Shape
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Contours: Contoured Heel / Tummy Cut / Forearm Contour
F-Holes: None
Battery Box: Single Battery Box

So I will be doing the finish myself.  I also have a Q Sawn maple with ebony board, SS6100 neck coming with an LSR prep. Normally I might have gone for 1 5/8" but the LSR is 1 11/16" which should be OK as I have been playing my Les Paul more lately.

 

[Cagey]

Sounds like it's gonna be a great guitar. What kind of finish were you thinking about doing?

 

[stratamania]

Sounds like it's gonna be a great guitar. What kind of finish were you thinking about doing?

Thanks.

On the finish, you know I am not 100% sure. I am going to see how the alder looks first.  I am toying with the idea of artists oil paint from Winsor and Newton,  Alizarin crimson or cadmium red looks quite good but I may incorporate some other colours. That is for the colour and the base of those pigment oil paints is linseed oil so it would certainly be compatible with tru-oil but there is also a two-part finish available in the UK called somewhat badly in the 60s Rustin's Plastic coating. Brian May used it on his Red special so it did not seem to affect his tone

I checked with Rustin's and the adviser said only to use it with their products but I have found forums where it suggests the oil paint would be OK. Of course, the stuff is not cheap to do a test with.

I am leaning towards tru-oil for final finishing I think. It would be built up in thin layers over time and I can easily work with it.


Edit: Forgot to mention the hardware will be chrome or similar and the pickguard is black/white/black.

 

[Cagey]

Seems like any oil-based paint would take 100 years to cure to the point where you could handle it as much as an instrument gets handled. I don't know, but I'd wonder if a linseed oil-based paint would be using raw or boiled linseed oil. If it's raw, I know that takes forever to cure. Boiled is much faster, relatively speaking.

If you can't spray, maybe consider one of the wipe-on poly formulations out there. That'll cure up nicely in this lifetime, and will take a lotta abuse once it does.

 

[stratamania]

Hi Cagey, the oil paint would get mixed into some tru-oil which has linseed oil in addition to various drying agents. So that would be how it would dry. Or there is something which in the US is referred to as Japan drier.

Anyway, when I get to it I will detail which direction I go in a thread.