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First build Questions

jbavier123

Newbie
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1
Hi, I've known about Warmoth for awhile but just recently have decided that I want to try and make my own build, but I have some questions before I order all the parts.
First let me start off with this, I plan to use an Explorer body with mahogany wood. My main style is hard rock and metal. If there is any more info you need before you answer the questions feel free to ask.

1. I'm confused on the whole top laminate concept, does it really matter which I choose if I just want the guitar to be black?
2. If I get a chambered body will I have to use a pickguard?
3. What is the difference between Humbucker (Neck) and Humbucker (Wood Mount) (Neck)? Same question applies to the bridge position.
4. What controls would I need if I am getting two humbuckers, neck and bridge? I would like to be able to turn down each individually so I am guessing two volumes, a tone, and a toggle?
5. Can someone explain the difference between the sizes of the Input Jack Rout? I have tried reading over it and it seems like it doesn't make a difference.
6. What is up with the stud install? I don't understand what this is at all.

Those are all the questions I have regarding the body for now, I'll work on the neck later. I'm sorry if some of these are stupid or obvious questions but I just really want to make sure I do everything right because this is my first time building a guitar.
Thanks in Advance!  :icon_biggrin:
-Justin
 
jbavier123 said:
Hi, I've known about Warmoth for awhile but just recently have decided that I want to try and make my own build, but I have some questions before I order all the parts.
First let me start off with this, I plan to use an Explorer body with mahogany wood. My main style is hard rock and metal. If there is any more info you need before you answer the questions feel free to ask.

1. I'm confused on the whole top laminate concept, does it really matter which I choose if I just want the guitar to be black?
2. If I get a chambered body will I have to use a pickguard?
3. What is the difference between Humbucker (Neck) and Humbucker (Wood Mount) (Neck)? Same question applies to the bridge position.
4. What controls would I need if I am getting two humbuckers, neck and bridge? I would like to be able to turn down each individually so I am guessing two volumes, a tone, and a toggle?
5. Can someone explain the difference between the sizes of the Input Jack Rout? I have tried reading over it and it seems like it doesn't make a difference.
6. What is up with the stud install? I don't understand what this is at all.

Those are all the questions I have regarding the body for now, I'll work on the neck later. I'm sorry if some of these are stupid or obvious questions but I just really want to make sure I do everything right because this is my first time building a guitar.
Thanks in Advance!  :icon_biggrin:
-Justin
1.Not really
2.it's up to you
3.Wood mount doesn't require a pickup ring, it screws straight into the wood.
4. Controls are up to you. You can have what you said, or have volume, volume, tone, tone, 3 way
5. Input jack route size is exactly that. Some kinds of jacks/plates/cups require different sizes
6. Stud installation puts one of the Warmoth Hunks in your guitar.
Wait... that's not it.
They will install the studs/inserts needed for a TOM/Tailpiece.
 
jbavier123 said:
Hi, I've known about Warmoth for awhile but just recently have decided that I want to try and make my own build, but I have some questions before I order all the parts.
First let me start off with this, I plan to use an Explorer body with mahogany wood. My main style is hard rock and metal. If there is any more info you need before you answer the questions feel free to ask.

1. I'm confused on the whole top laminate concept, does it really matter which I choose if I just want the guitar to be black?
2. If I get a chambered body will I have to use a pickguard?
3. What is the difference between Humbucker (Neck) and Humbucker (Wood Mount) (Neck)? Same question applies to the bridge position.
4. What controls would I need if I am getting two humbuckers, neck and bridge? I would like to be able to turn down each individually so I am guessing two volumes, a tone, and a toggle?
5. Can someone explain the difference between the sizes of the Input Jack Rout? I have tried reading over it and it seems like it doesn't make a difference.
6. What is up with the stud install? I don't understand what this is at all.

Those are all the questions I have regarding the body for now, I'll work on the neck later. I'm sorry if some of these are stupid or obvious questions but I just really want to make sure I do everything right because this is my first time building a guitar.
Thanks in Advance!  :icon_biggrin:
-Justin

1. If you want a solid color, a top isn't really important at all, except maybe tone wise and if you want binding (I think?)
2. You only really need a pickguard if you choose the top rout option, that means the pickups and controls cavities will be carved on the top, therefore you need a pickguard to hide them
3. Choose the "Humbucker (Neck/Bridge)" option if you want to install a pickup ring around the pickup, or the "Woodmount" option if you don't want pickup rings.
4. Yes I guess 1 volume for each pickup, a master volume and a toggle switch could do it, but that's all up to you
5. I think it depends on the kind of body you want, I'm not too familiar with Explorers though
6. The studs they're talking about are the bridge studs, I think they offer to install them because if you're not careful it's easy to chip the finish
 
jbavier123 said:
1. I'm confused on the whole top laminate concept, does it really matter which I choose if I just want the guitar to be black?
2. If I get a chambered body will I have to use a pickguard?
3. What is the difference between Humbucker (Neck) and Humbucker (Wood Mount) (Neck)? Same question applies to the bridge position.
4. What controls would I need if I am getting two humbuckers, neck and bridge? I would like to be able to turn down each individually so I am guessing two volumes, a tone, and a toggle?
5. Can someone explain the difference between the sizes of the Input Jack Rout? I have tried reading over it and it seems like it doesn't make a difference.
6. What is up with the stud install? I don't understand what this is at all.

1. laminate tops are optional and are really only important if you want a transparent finish of some kind. some people might want a maple top because they believe it'll make a tonal difference, but for the most part this won't matter for a solid black guitar. plus with warmoth they don't offer a plain maple top as far as i know, so you'd have to have a flame, wild, or quilted maple, and that'll cost a decent amount.
2. no, the chambering will be under the solid top. you do have a choice on whether you want a top routed body which will need a pickguard, but it's not mandatory.
3. for woodmount routes i think the routes aren't quite as deep as they would be for pickups using mounting rings. if you're using mounting rings you definitely won't want this option
4. this is up to you as the player, but chances are a 2 volume, 1 tone set up is best. and a toggle, too
5. warmoth has different jacks in stock in the hardware section. check them out. under each one it'll tell you what size route you would need. for an explorer i would probably want a 7/8" jack with a football or square plate.
6. this depends on the bridge you want to use. if you're using a tremolo of some kind or a Tune O Matic bridge you'll most likely want warmoth to install the studs for you. you can do this yourself with a drill press, but i think it would be safer to have the pros do it

hope some of this helps!
 
5. 7/8" jack route is for recessed cup "tele-style" jacks:

jack_9.jpg


Square or Football jack covers can be used for 7/8" or 3/4" (I'd use 3/4" for this kind though).

1/2" is for just the jack with no cover or cup.


6. The studs are the metal inserts in the body wood that trem and tunomatic bridges mount on. See the right hand column on this page:

http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Options/BridgeRoutingOptions.aspx

If you're buying the bridge from Warmoth, I'd recommend having them do it.
 
On tops and chambering:
if you chamber, you will need to specify the top. Any top, but you must pick one.
Top/Rear routing is independent of chambering.
Laminate tops cost $75 period. Unless you pick your own individual wood. But you're going to paint over it. I'd save the pretty woods for others just out of conscience.
Carved tops are thicker than the laminate and the same rules don't always apply. For instance, right now quilting doesn't seem to be an option for carved maple tops.

This make it hard for me to put a solid color on a chambered guitar, because luck of the draw flame maple is no more expensive than poplar.

 
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