Finishing a birdseye maple top on a guitar body

DocNrock

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We all know the beautiful results that come from dyeing a quilt or flame maple top on a guitar body.  Is there a reason this does not seem to be done with birdseye?  Does it not take up the dye as uniformly, or at all?

Sorry, dumb question.  Just trying to learn.
 
I do think it is as dynamic.  The birdseye does not hold dye like the flame.  I also feel the sand back method does not have same effect as it does with quilt and flame.  Here is an example.
Graphite_Birdseye_new.JPG

 
The way I understand it, with quilted or curly Maple the figuring you see is actually cross-sections of end grain. The wood grows wavy, so when it's cut straight through, it alternately exposes straight and grain ends. End grain is more absorbent than straight grain, so if you dye it and then sand it back, the end grain retains dye in intra-cellular areas while the straight grain sands off and leaves new, unstained cells exposed. Maple is a closed cell wood, so the straight-grained parts don't retain any dye in the cells themselves. This is part of the reason Maple can be a real pain in the shorts to stain in the first place. It can easily end up blotchy, which is why it's recommended that it be sealed before staining so the take-up is uniform.

Birdseye, I'm not sure about. I think that's the result of environmental conditions that trick the tree into sprouting a jillion little branches, so all those "eyes" are actually little knots, where a little branch started out. But, I'm just guessing. If that's true, though, then I suspect there's enough of a difference in wood density/hardness at the "eye" that it wouldn't take stain/dye as readily as other areas.

I've seen some nicely done colored birdseye, but I suspect they covered it with a tinted finish rather than staining the wood itself.
 
Looking at the builder, it seems like the trans yellow, red, or blue look exceptionally sweet.  :icon_thumright:
 
Smaller patterns make it difficult to see such fine detail from afar, like quilt or flame.

Birdseye has less movement in the wood, so not as much material to bend like, ie; "chatoyance" as Ken explained it to me when helping me to learn how to grade lam tops & fingerboards.

Sanding back on flame or quilt is easier to get desired results, but much harder on birdseye.  It's there, but more view-able up close than from afar unless is like a AAAAA grade birdseye.

Helpful perspective: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Chatoyance.html
 
DMRACO said:
Gibson makes some killer bird eye LPs

VIPP241A.jpg

LP?  That looks like a VIP!  LOL!  Seriously, though, I have been GASing over an unfinished birdseye VIP.  Too bad it has ivoroid binding, otherwise, I'd be all over it!  :laughing7:
 
I would do a shading lacquer on Birdseye which would be how Gibson would have done the Lester. Seal your maple with clear and level sand it then shoot the shade color and put you final clear coats over that and you should have a nice looking finish.
 
Tonar8353 said:
I would do a shading lacquer on Birdseye which would be how Gibson would have done the Lester. Seal your maple with clear and level sand it then shoot the shade color and put you final clear coats over that and you should have a nice looking finish.

Thank you for the tip, Tonar!  :icon_thumright:
 
I asked one of the sales guys at Warmoth this a few months ago and he said they don't offer dye finishes on birdseye maple because birdseye is too dense and it doesn't hold dye well.
 
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