EMG 5 way blade: Doesn't work in rear route, carved top soloist. Help?

[The_GuitAar]

Just got the body and neck today and started to build!

And... So many problems. The biggest one currently being that the 5 way selector switch doesn't work with the body.

The switch's depth is too deep and sticks out from the cavity, and blades switch range is too wide so bridge and neck only options aren't selectable.

Any more experienced guys have any ideas? Not sure what other switches I can pick up (or how to wire them. Was hoping for a drop in with emg... Nope)


Edit: dropped a cool 100$ at Amazon to pick up entirely new pots, switches, solder wire etc. EMG pots are 25k. Not 250k, 25k. Going to have to break out the soldering iron this/next weekend to get this all squared away. First build, already regrets from lack of knowledge.

Oh well, live and learn.

 

[stratamania]

Quite a number of members using rear rout bodies have thinned down the thickness of the wood of the body from within the cavity for this type of reason such as switch and pot fitting. It is not just EMG it happens with other items. So I really hope the $100 of other things you have ordered does not have the same fate.

 

[Unwound G]

When you order a rear routed body with a 5-way switch, they should prepare a lowered cavity slot like the one pictured.  You can send it back for alteration or do it by someone experienced.  Since the alteration is inside the control cavity and not outwardly visible, using correct sized Fostner drill bits will do the job.  Remember EMG's 25K pots are also short shaft so you may need to similarly do the same treatment for each pot to a wider circumference.  Safest is to take to a professional.

 

[The_GuitAar]

Quite a number of members using rear rout bodies have thinned down the thickness of the wood of the body from within the cavity for this type of reason such as switch and pot fitting. It is not just EMG it happens with other items. So I really hope the $100 of other things you have ordered does not have the same fate.

It does have a drop in the wood to thin it out for the switch, strange that it would need even more? I got a fender blade switch, if that doesn't work I think the CNC design will need to be changed considering this is a fender replacement body. Thanks for the heads up though, if that ends up being the case I won't be more grumpy since I'm now aware.

 

[Rick]

Got a few suggestions ...

First, check out the dimensions of the freeway blades, and if they don't work ... (probably have the same problem)
Second, then use a freeway toggle switch which should fit.  Of course, if you used the toggle you'd have drill a hole and get a big poker chip to cover up the slot, maybe. The toggle probably wouldn't look right because most chips are like 1.5 inches and I think the slot is 2 inches. (Probably not an ideal solution)

https://www.freewayswitch.com/schematics-blade/

Or find a smaller switch, and possibly use push-pull pots to get the extra switching options.

Or go at it with some sandpaper.

Adapt to the circumstances.

Do another project that you know everything will fit.  Even when cobbling together parts from ebay, I realized these things aren't kits.  I always have to modify something.  My cousin used to renovate old cars and motorcycles, and there were always issues.  The parts sold by Warmoth are more akin to that. Carvin, or whatever they call themselves these days makes nice kits if you're interested. 

It's not the end of the world.  As you said, live and learn.  It's OK.

 

[The_GuitAar]

Alright! So after a small days work I have finished working in the control cavity. First time ever soldering so, don't mind the singed wires.

I sliced out some extra space on either side of the blades route. Needed about a 1/16th on each side and that did the trick.

Now to wait on my tuners.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Sometimes, just the amount of finish that gets into the blade slot is enough to impede a clean drop in.  When this happens, I’ll use either an emery board in the slot to lightly remove material, or the abrasive thread works well too, but not worth too much pressure if stoking upward to you may cause some chip out.  I prefer downward strokes only for this task.