Ebonized ash design and finishing suggestions

[E-Type]

I have an ash Cabronita body on the way. Putting together a guitar for my son 's 19th birthday. He really likes the look of ebonized ash (see Relish guitar below).

I am actually happy about the finish as ash can be kind of blotchy when it comes to dye or stain.

So I am planning to do the india ink (SpeedBall brand, which includes shellac) (see further below). I have done this before, and it worked great, but it was baltic birch and I did not grain fill and I used a wipe on wipe on finish (General Finishes Arm-R-Seal).

Hardware and pickups will be chrome.

First questions are aesthetic. Maple or rosewood fretboard? Grain fill or not? Satin or semi-gloss finish?

Second questions are technique. (yes, I have bought some ash to practice on).
If I want to grain fill, when do I add it?
Last time, I added a layer of black stain after the india ink. It worked well, but would that go before the filler or after (if I use a filler)?
Is there an easy good looking wipe on finish I should consider or do I need to find a professional to spray lacquer?

Thanks for the help!

Go to the 21 minute mark to start with the India Ink section).
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0E7E6uSPJY[/youtube]

 

[Cagey]

Normally, Ash is filled. But, in this case, I think the grain adds too much character to ignore so I'd use it. For protective finish, I'd be experimenting between spray satin lacquer, or wipe-on satin poly.

 

[E-Type]

Thanks for the response. No filler certainly saves steps, so I like that. I have heard too many horror stories about spray lacquer to want to try that. Wipe-on-poly is certainly something I have used before. Do I have to consider yellowing of the finish with the ebonized wood?

And any comments on Tru Oil, I do see that used a lot.

 

[Cagey]

Most modern finish formulations don't yellow. As for the oil thing, I don't feel it's a durable enough finish for a guitar. Besides, you really want a smooth substrate for that as it has to go on very thin or it'll never cure. With all the nooks and crannies in an open-grained wood like Ash, you won't get there without some heroic filling/leveling.

 

[E-Type]

Cagey,

In another thread, you discussed the importance of prep work prior to applying finish (see below). I 100% agree, but can you help me understand something. I have also seen that you don't want to sand smoother than 220 before applying stain or dye (like the India Ink) or it might affect how well the color soaks in or sticks. But then if you later sand to 320, 400, etc. before finishing, wouldn't it affect the color coat?

So is a good thorough 220 sanding what you meant? Or should there be a coat of sealer applied after the color and it is THAT that is taken down to 400 or 800 grit? Or is there something more fundamental that I am missing?

Thanks.

"It seems it isn't mentioned as often or strongly enough how important prep before finishing is, as if the finish is going to perform some sort of miracle. The reverse is much more often true - that the finish exacerbates any prep deficiencies, sometimes surprisingly so. You really need to get the thing to the point where it almost doesn't need a finish. Really, the finish is just for protection and/or to provide an unnatural aesthetic for the material, such as high gloss or color/artwork."

 

[Cagey]

It's something of a judgement call. For dyes, which are usually cut with alcohol or acetone, the liquid has a lower surface tension or viscosity than finish material so it tends to sink in deeper. Means you'll see grain/pores more readily.