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Drilling metal ... will an ordinary bit suffice?

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reluctant-builder

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Hey, all. Since my Hagstrom no-solder-on-pot-backs scheme was such a rousing success (seriously, not being sarcastic), I'm opting to keep my Jazzmaster pots solder-free, too.

I've got ideas for how to take care of my grounding, but one of them involves using the roller pots chassis as a grounding hub. I'd like to drill a holl, thread an eyelet screw into the hole and then solder the rhythm circuit grounds to that eyelet.

However, I have no "special for drilling metal" bits. Wondering if I can accomplish this without such bits or if I'm just going to destroy my wood and masonry bits.
 

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are the 'wood' bits high speed twist drill bits?  for a power drill?  Should be fine.  Use a bit of cutting oil (or whatever oil you got around) and take it slow.
 
Here's what I've got (photo attached).

It's a Ryobi set which says it includes:

Ten (10) 135-degree split-point titanium-coated bits
Four (4) Carbide-tipped masonry bits
Three (3) black and silver Brad-point bits

Sadly, the only oil I've got in the house is Extra Virgin Olive Oil ... though I might have some corn oil, too. :icon_tongue:

I guess I'll pick up a can of 3-in-1 tomorrow (or perhaps something better, if someone's got a brand in mind?).

Thanks!
 

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Also, stay away from those spade bits. They are pretty much worthless for anything other than soft woods. :tard:
 
Thanks again, Trevor; it worked! Pictures: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=17778.msg263178#msg263178

line6man said:
Also, stay away from those spade bits. They are pretty much worthless for anything other than soft woods. :tard:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pointer! I used it on pine and it was fine ... so, like you said: soft wood.
 
reluctant-builder said:
Thanks again, Trevor; it worked! Pictures: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=17778.msg263178#msg263178

line6man said:
Also, stay away from those spade bits. They are pretty much worthless for anything other than soft woods. :tard:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pointer! I used it on pine and it was fine ... so, like you said: soft wood.
Click to expand...

I've used them for various things over the years, but they have a tendency to give really rough holes. If you ever need to drill large holes in hardwood, use Forstner bits. They give a nice flat bottom, too.

Off topic rant, I bought a set of Forstner bits at Rockler today, and the bit I needed was so dull that I could barely manage to get 1/4" of drilling out of it.  :tard:
I was not expecting much from a cheap set of bits, but come on! They could sharpen them better than that! I need to get me a Forstner sharpening kit.
 
Yeah, the spade bit did leave pretty rough holes in the pine I used for my knuckle dusters. I wound up filing and sanding those holes out, though, so they were smooth and contoured to the wrap of my fingers, so it wasn't such a worry, in that case.

As for the dull bit. I don't care how inexpensive something is ... it should at least fulfill its purpose ONCE. Ridiculous!
 
I always sharpen a drill bit before I use it.
AND I NEVER EXPECT A NEW DRILL BIT TO BE SHARPENED CORRECTLY!
With the cheaper sets you're lucky if they are even shaped correctly, let alone sharp.
Most of the Titanium coated bits I've seen coming out of asia are poorly cut. Then they'er coated which seems to make them even duller (sp) They last longer just don't cut real clean.
Lot's of stuff out there to sharpen twist drills.
Forstner bits take a slip stone or similar.
D
 
As far as oil for the bit, in a pinch you can you dish soap.  Doesn't work as good, but it will do the trick.  It makes things slippery, and it is viscous enough that it doesn't go flying as soon as you turn on the drill.  Better to use the correct stuff, but it will work if you need to get it done immediately.
Patrick

 
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