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Do I need a string tree with a roller nut?

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So I put an LSR roller nut on my new tele build and haven't decided on a string tree to use, so I've not put one on yet. Thing is, that nut really has deep "slots" and I'm thinking I probably don't need a tree at all. No amount of bending unseats the strings, and the sustain seems fine. So am I missing something?

Thanks,
Josh
 
Nope. If it's setting up fine, stay with it. Better to not have another friction point if you can avoid it.
 
What kind of tuners are you using? Is the headstock angled? Those two factors usually play a big part in determining whether or not string trees are needed.

I do however agree with the previous reply, that if it's working fine without a string tree, there's no reason to add one.
 
If it's got an LSR, it's not an angled peghead.

And no, it shouldn't need them at all.  For further proof, Fender - who puts string tees on everything, doesn't put them on guitars that come with an LSR as the OEM nut, i.e. the Jeff Beck models and Beck inspired Fender Ultra series.
 
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
If it's got an LSR, it's not an angled peghead.

And no, it shouldn't need them at all.  For further proof, Fender - who puts string tees on everything, doesn't put them on guitars that come with an LSR as the OEM nut, i.e. the Jeff Beck models and Beck inspired Fender Ultra series.

Yes, but don't those Fender guitars have staggered tuning machines with shorter posts to create more downward pressure of the strings over the nut?

I had a Strat Plus back in 1998, and it had an LSR nut, but also had staggered tuners.
 
When I put one on my guitar I think the instructions said not to use string trees.
 
I never use string trees, whether I use an LSR or not, and none of my heads are tilt-backs. The trees are only there to compensate for poorly-cut nuts that might let go of a string with the added lateral stress of a bend or heavy strumming, not to "transfer vibrations" as the common mythology claims. I mean, if there isn't a severe angle at he nut, where does everybody think the vibrations go? Paris? San Francisco? No. They're absorbed by the neck, the same way they are with trees or a tilt-back head.
 
If you put a string tree along with LSR nut, the 2 strings under the
string tree might get pushed down too low and touch the edge of the
nut. The strings should touch only the rollers.
 
Cagey said:
I never use string trees, whether I use an LSR or not, and none of my heads are tilt-backs. The trees are only there to compensate for poorly-cut nuts that might let go of a string with the added lateral stress of a bend or heavy strumming, not to "transfer vibrations" as the common mythology claims. I mean, if there isn't a severe angle at he nut, where does everybody think the vibrations go? Paris? San Francisco? No. They're absorbed by the neck, the same way they are with trees or a tilt-back head.

I have a Strat with Sperzels that didn't used to have a string tree (the one in my picture), but when I had to redo the nut, I sanded the top of nut too far, and when doing bends on the e and b strings in the lower registers, they would pop out.  Instead of making a whole new nut (didn't want to go through that ordeal again), I just plopped a string tree on it.  It fixed the string popping issues and damn if it didn't increase the volume and sustain on those two strings, especially the high e.  

I did a little digging around on the interwebs, and apparently, without a string tree, the higher strings ring sympathetically on certain notes which kills the sustain of said note (something to do with the way the string vibrates).  Using a string tree shortens the string length and keeps it from ringing sympathetically, and FTR, if you use a spacer and some sort of lubricant (I use chap stick), you won't have tuning problems with a string tree.  Unless the humidity or temperature is wonky, I tune my Strat up at the beginning of the night, and it's good for the entire gig.
 
I was looking through some guitar show pics for another thread.  I don't know or remember why I snapped this, and it's used, so it may a retrofit, but...........

P1060461.jpg
 
If the LSR was retrofit, they may have put the trees on there to cover up the unsightly holes that would be left if they didn't. Or, it may have been one of those deals where the owner wanted trees "just because", or for some imagined need. Lotta gear that way in the world.
 
I have the opposite. I have roller string tree with a graph tech tusq xl nut.  i find it works quite well.

*edit* I already had the string tree, and have never had a guitar 'serviced' so I didn't want it in the hands of someone more inept than I working on the nut
 
String trees were invented and installed as a "just in case" precaution for mass produced guitars.

Unless your going for a Vintage look, don't use em. but if you find that you have to use them because the strings are falling out of the nut, A: fix the nut B: add string trees
 
Alfang said:
String trees were invented and installed as a "just in case" precaution for mass produced guitars.

Unless your going for a Vintage look, don't use em. but if you find that you have to use them because the strings are falling out of the nut, A: fix the nut B: add string trees

PERZACTLY!
 
Cagey said:
If the LSR was retrofit, they may have put the trees on there to cover up the unsightly holes that would be left if they didn't. Or, it may have been one of those deals where the owner wanted trees "just because", or for some imagined need. Lotta gear that way in the world.

I was thinking the String tees were the retrofit and the LSR nut was original only because most Strat nut widths w/out an LSR 1 5/8" and the LSR is 1 11/16".  An already rare 111/16" Strat w/out an LSR, well the LSR retrofit seems a stranger mod than adding unnecessary string tees to one by someone that doesn't know better.  I don't remember or have pics of the rest of the guitar to know for sure.  I'm guessing it would be a Strat Ultra;  LSR and Lace Sensors.  If the string tees were added later, it would not be because they needed them, but the owner added them because all the Strats at the store have string tees.
 
If it isn't broke don't fix it or generally yes for vintage and non-staggered tuners. To help balance 6 different string angles install a genuine Fender tree with spacer or a modern tree that matches Fender specs for the E & B strings (tree location shown below). And, cut the G string longer, adding a few more winds increases its break angle. The D, A and fat E are good to go.
Awhile back I acquired a used neck which had a Warmoth installed LSR and thought it was the best thing since the Hula-Hoop, recommended.
 

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