counter sink for Ferrels

[Jusatele]

so I got a set of ferrels and they have an upper lip, seems they are designed to fit a bit on the outside of the back of the Tele, However, I want them to be flat.

I can imagine someone has dealt with this issue before and knows the size drill bit to use as a countersink and the depth, also any tricks to know about this process of putting them in?

 

[SkuttleFunk]

use a Forstner bit in a drill press to install the recess, and remember to account for finish thickness when determining your recess depth.

to get the right diameter bit, you'll need to measure the diameter of the lip (here's where having a set of dial calipers comes in real handy) add in a factor to account for the finish build up (it lips on that edge and down into the recess) and presto! you know know what diameter to use.

all the best,

R

 

[Hbom]

The OD of the shoulder on the ferrules in my strat is about .394x.030 high. They came from W.
I wanted to recess mine but the string holes were already drilled 5/16 and I wasn't sure I could get a clean recess with the drill bits I had. 
I've been thinking about it since, (another 1 coming you know) and I think I may try to make a bit that has a pilot 9-10/32 and then a .395 forstner shaped cutting area. Still not sure how to make it work right. A good mill or solid drill press might eliminate all those issues. I just don't own either.
As for installing, I've read that you should heat the ferrule with a solder iron and press them in. I added a bit of bees wax & a few hammer taps.

Another approach: Use Callaham ferrules without shoulder.http://www.callahamguitars.com/partstel.htm
  And I'm sure there are others.

 

[Steve_Karl]

Does Warmoth really drill like the one on the right?

 

[Jusatele]

I bought my ferrels and body from Warmoth, the route is like the right, I want the left.

 

[lafromla1]

I agree in that the one on the left looks cleaner, but after installing them the way they look on the right, its no worries for me.  Maybe next project when I can access a drill press.

 

[Jusatele]

I think, I am going to do it like on the left, the logistics of it all, finding a caliper, going after a bit, finding a drill press to use, doing it right on a finished body, I think it would be better to counter sink the next one.

 

[Steve_Karl]

That's a shame ... to take out twice the amount of wood needed.

 

[Hbom]

The worst thing that I see about the deep route is that the string is going to be hitting that square edge at the bottom of the hole and not wanting to slide on through like it would if the route was closer to ferrule depth. Certainly explains why my strat build is such a pia to string.  Especially the 2 highest strings which seem to hold the most of their curve.
I think next build I'll try to fix that. Put a big bevel at the bottom of the route at least.
Or maybe a bit of stir straw and some glue up to the bottom of the ferrule.

 

[-CB-]

I did this just a little while ago.... there's a thread on it someplace here.

 

[Jusatele]

perk  so there is a way

 

[Steve_Karl]

I did this just a little while ago.... there's a thread on it someplace here.

If you can be more specific about what "this" is ... we can probably find the thread.
Do you remember anything specific (phrases) you said in your posts?

http://www.google.com/advanced_search  will nail it if you can.

thanks!

 

[-CB-]

"This" is the fix for the subject at hand... !@

Here ya go
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=14213.msg201379#msg201379

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Countersunk ferrules is a recurring request on here.  Not a deal breaker for me though.  I bet they offer it in the not to distant future.  This is one area the basses have it on guitars.  Bass ferrules are countersunk.

 

[Death by Uberschall]

I just installed them with the lip exposed and flush against the body on my Tele. Countersinking them isn't necessary, and I like the lip protecting the edge of the finish around them.

 

[Steve_Karl]

That's cool.
My only worry was the depth of the hole W drills and problems with the string hitting edges and not going through easily.

 

[NovasScootYa]

so I got a set of ferrels and they have an upper lip, seems they are designed to fit a bit on the outside of the back of the Tele, However, I want them to be flat.

I can imagine someone has dealt with this issue before and knows the size drill bit to use as a countersink and the depth, also any tricks to know about this process of putting them in?

KNE countersinks their Strat/Tele hardtail ferrule bores the way you prefer. Personally, I prefer the later method and painstakingly used epoxy to fill in the countersinks on a KNE build.  
With a sunk ferrule there's a risk of the finish flexing, cracking and showing imperfections when seated. Unless there's sufficent clearance a recessed ferrule has a paint chopping effect around the bore edge.
Before and after painting the later straight ferrule bores should be sized for installation almost by hand so not to mushroom the wood, buckle the paint, etc. I do not mask bores because of the plugs may pull the paint when removed, etc. A micrometer and hand operated drill bit is necessary for sizing bores. For installation use a driver that fits the inside the ferrule.
It's a lot of trouble using a countersink to try to do what isn't necessary and the tear-out risk factor is very high without a tight fitting template, etc. Very important for aesthetics that the ferrules are aligned and installed cleanly.  CallahamGuitars.com has ferrules that may meet your needs.

 

[m4rk0]

I heard he is going to get a role in 'the office'!!!  :tard:

 

[NovasScootYa]

That's cool.
My only worry was the depth of the hole W drills and problems with the string hitting edges and not going through easily.

That won't happen. From the top of the body using a 2 7/32" string spacing bridge plate as a guide I've enlarged import spaced bores accordingly. Even with that new strings found their way with no problemo.

 

[NovasScootYa]

Does Warmoth really drill like the one on the right?

Having never used a Warmoth body I cannot say for sure. I assumed the ferrule bore on your right was an exaggeration to make the larger unturned/unfinished product and the recessed ferrule appear more attractive and smart. Hopefully Warmoth doesn't go that deep.
I've never had any issue whatsoever with the striaght bore and I primarily build hardtails. There is no logical reason not to have a shallow bore like the recessed ferrules.