Cleaning strings

[reluctant-builder]

I have never cleaned my strings. When a set becomes too grungy, I tend to change it ... eventually. However, I've grown weary of changing my strings as often as they seem to require it, but I am wary of purchasing "string cleaner." Seems like something perfectly ordinary bottled up and sold at a premium price per ounce. One my sets is Ernie's "Not Even Slinky" but I change out the plain-G for a wound one, which only adds to the cost of replacing strings.

In my research, I've found that "string cleaner" is teflon-infused oil akin to what it used to clean guns. Now, not owning any guns, I have no cans of Remington's gun cleaner, but it got me wondering if other forms of lubricant might suffice as string cleaner. Like WD-40 or 3-in-1Oil, or perhaps another product that hasn't sprung to my mind.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[bagman67]

I don't have an informed opinion here, but an obvious caveat to whatever you try is this:  Anything you spray on your strings, or wipe on with a rag, is going to ultimately impregnate your fingerboard (at least if it's an unfinished one).  So your various oils, silicones, etc., could gum up the fingerboard texture some.

 

[reluctant-builder]

It's a prudent warning. I certainly wasn't going to spray, willy-nilly, anything on my strings (and subsequently board) that didn't receive some semblance of a credible endorsement. I'm very much a look first ... look again ... look ... one more time ... look some more ... wait, let me look ... OK, maybe I'll do it (but let me take a look) ... kind of guy.

 

[Corey P.]

I just change them when I notice tarnish, but I don't play tons and use garden variety strings (EB Slinky 11's) & buy them in bulk, so it's fairly economical for me.  I've used GHS Fast Fret before, which is basically just white mineral oil, but my goal is moreso to clean the finger crunkness off the fretboard than the strings themselves - the feel can be a little slippery, sort of like elixirs but different.  I haven't noticed any negative or lingering effects on rosewood or finished maple, my only advice would be to use a microfiber cloth to wipe the strings down and not the included cloths, which shreds like a mofo - threads of it get wrapped around your strings and haunt you for days.

I've heard just wiping the strings and neck down with a clean dry cloth after playing is huge, so if you aren't doing that in practice it may stave off a need for you to clean strings nearly as often if random detritus & perspiration & whatnot isn't being left behind to get familiar with your guitar in a tarnish-causing way.

I know that the above sentence probably sounds like a Dan Erlewine direct verbatim quote, but I assure you, it is not!

 

[AndyG]

This will never work with guitar strings, but whenever a set of bass strings start going flat, I'll soak them overnight in methyl hydrate (available at any hardware store).  Obviously I take them OFF the bass first  :glasses10:

With the expense of bass strings (especially 5-string sets), this is a nice way to have fresh-sounding strings for rehersals and such.  I will always put on a fresh set for gigs or recording.

 

[bbl4ck]

If possible, I always try to wash my hands before playing and wipe my strings down with a microfiber cloth after playing. 
I usually get pretty good life by following this route.  I also use the Fast Fret on my strings quite often.  Not every time I play,
but almost.  I have never seen any harm to the fingerboard after a couple years of use. 
Anyway, good luck &  :rock-on:

 

[bagman67]

Then there's the school of thought that gunky strings have more TONE, man! 

 

[reluctant-builder]

Then there's the school of thought that gunky strings have more TONE, man! 

They're definitely funky...

 

[Damon]

The obvious solution is to own enough guitars that when your strings start to go on one, you just move to the next. Then you don't have to change strings that often, but when you do you need to set aside a paycheck and a weekend to do it....  :laughing7:

 

[MikeW]

Having a Floyd makes it a bit of a pain to change strings, so I try to make them last as long as possible. So I clean my hands before I play and wipe down with a soft washcloth or a microfiber rag after playing. That goes a long way, but I still use Dunlop 65 string cleaner every couple of weeks to keep the strings bright.

 

[reluctant-builder]

The obvious solution is to own enough guitars that when your strings start to go on one, you just move to the next. Then you don't have to change strings that often, but when you do you need to set aside a paycheck and a weekend to do it....  :laughing7:

I already have that solution.  :icon_biggrin: But I still go to some more often than others.

 

[Cagey]

Strings are cheap. Buy 'em by the 10-pack, they're ~$3/set. When they get grungy, replace 'em.

Note: Stainless steel strings are a bit brighter right off the bat and last a lot longer, for about a 25%-30% premium in cost. Worth trying a set just to see how you like 'em.

 

[Steve_Karl]

When I've ( rarely ) wanted to clean guitar strings I've used rubbing alcohol on a small clean rag, looping it under each string, one at a time and then running it up and down the string.
I never had a problem keeping the alcohol off of the fretboard with this method.

 

[Jusatele]

I use finger ease each time I pick up an axe
change the strings about once a month and clean the fingerboard then

 

[reluctant-builder]

Strings are cheap. Buy 'em by the 10-pack, they're ~$3/set. When they get grungy, replace 'em.

Note: Stainless steel strings are a bit brighter right off the bat and last a lot longer, for about a 25%-30% premium in cost. Worth trying a set just to see how you like 'em.

Not a problem to buy in packs of ten for most sets of strings except the Ernie Ball "Not Even Slinky" set ... I cannot find them in multi-packs for a decent price.

 

[Cagey]

Not having used those, I didn't realize they were just thinly-disguised towing cables <grin>

D'Addario makes a very similar set - their EXL145 - that's nickel-plated, hex core, and has a plain G. They end on a .054 vs. a .056, but are otherwise very similar and come in 10 packs. But, they're $54 for 10 sets. That's a little more than I'm used to for the more common gauges. I found some here, if you're interested.

 

[reluctant-builder]

There are pretty beastly strings, but they are so phenomenal for playing really chunky, tri-tone-laden, overdriven / gain-heavy music. I play with Dunlop Jazz Tone large point (208) picks: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Dunlop-477R208-Jazztone-Guitar-Picks---Large-Pointed-110352-i1123532.gc ... and the harmonics brought out by those massive puppies are sick.

Not sure if this is anything anyone cares about, but:

24.75" Swede: "Not Even Slinky" 12 - 56
25.5" Swede: "Skinny Top, Heavy Bottom" 10 - 52
Strat: "Super Slinky" 9 - 42
24.75" Heritage H-535: "D'Addario EXL 110" 10 - 46s (my tech only sells D'Addario strings, which he provided as part of the set-up).

I like some variety in my guitars. They each do different things. I've got the Swede with those bridge cable strings down-tuned right now to Eb-standard, but it can go down to C-standard and still not sound like it's been de-tuned; a lot of guitars get muddy, with strings not massive enough.

I just bought a bunch of packs from webstrings.com because they purport to get strings from the same maker that supplies unnamed "major" brands. They've got quite a few sets that are spot-on Ernie Ball gauges. No "Not Even Slinky" equivalent, though.  :sad:

Still, getting 12 packs of strings for 37 bucks (including shipping), was pretty sweet.

 

[Cagey]

I just bought a bunch of packs from webstrings.com because they purport to get strings from the same maker that supplies unnamed "major" brands. They've got quite a few sets that are spot-on Ernie Ball gauges. No "Not Even Slinky" equivalent, though.  :sad:

I sometimes wonder about that. Wire draw operations can't be cheap to set up or operate; the power requirements alone have to be massive. So, how many of these guys can actually be making strings? I have a feeling there only a few, and they private brand for everybody else.

 

[hannaugh]

I use coated strings, I wash my hands, and I use Dunlop 65 Ultraglide every 3rd time I play (or if they feel like they need some lubrication), and I hardly ever have to change my strings (maybe 3x a year).  Usually when I do change them, I'm changing them because they are starting to sound dull and not because of corrosion.  I don't have very acidic hands, but I still think doing that stuff extends string life, which is important to me because Elixirs are kind of expensive to be replacing constantly.  The Dunlop 65 can easily be found for under $5 online.  One bottle will last a loooong time. 

 

[AutoBat]

I use Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes 3-4 times/year mostly as a fretboard conditioner, they just happen to also fancy up the strings during application.  I play coated Elixirs and only change them about once a year (when a string breaks).