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Candy Yellow with light binding

SmarchWeather

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I have been dreaming about ordering a Kandy Yellow Mooncaster for a while. There isn't a lot of warmoth kandy yellow out there for me to find examples of, and I can't find any with kandy yellow and a light binding.

I think pearloid or white binding would look really nice, but I am afraid I'll order it and there won't be enough contrast between the yellow and the binding And it'll look bad.

Anybody have any pictures or experience with the color to help me decide? Also, does kandy have a nice sparkle underneath? I know it is supposed to. I am hoping for a nice hot-rod yellow sparkle.
 
Well, I just placed the order. Kandy Yellow Mooncaster with white pearloid binding . . . with a matching neck sporting Kandy Yellow shaft and headstock and white pearloid binding. I will post pics in six months when I get it, lol. Very excited.

Well done! Get you some!

Pictures of the finished build will be required.
 
Hello, folks! I have received my body and neck! I think they're really lovely, and I am happy to share pictures.

I have learned a few things I can also share, along with a bit of tragedy . . . .

What I learned:
Candy Yellow is definitely more of a gold in my opinion. Photos are tough, but in person expect something that is a bit of a darker, warmer yellow. The candy sparkles are definitely there and the way I wanted them, but they aren't super flashy the way flake would be. Light colored binding looks great with it.

Pearloid binding looks great, except every once in a while where a weird bit in the pattern comes to the edge and makes a sharp white blob. There's one at the fourth fret that grabs my attention in a bad way. Not complaining though. Love it. Just something to know, Flat white might be a safer choice for a neck for me in the future.

Finally, the $15 charged by warmoth to install bridge posts IS A STEAL. Do it. At least if don't have a lot of experience installing them. I SHOULD HAVE, which leads me to...

The tragedy:
I have never built a tune-o-matic guitar before. So, when a post was so tight I couldn't get it in, I tried to take it back out.... and not in a smart way. So I pretty badly damaged the finish by one of the bridge posts. Several.bad dents and chipped paint. Grown man almost cried. If this happens to you, please go find tricks online for backing them out, as I eventually did, instead of doing it a stupid way.

I would gladly welcome suggestions for ways to cover up or otherwise do something about the dings between the bridge and tailpiece posts and paint chip at the bridge post. Otherwise it'll just be a visible lesson for the years ahead.
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Excellent tip on installing bridge post, I had similar experience on tom builds, never got them perfect, too tight splits wood, too loose can be another problem, fortunate for me I was leaning on an inexpensive stewmac 335 kit.
 
Sorry to hear about the maligned post install! I’m sure you can find a very similar nail polish color and give that a quick touch up that will be all but invisible unless you’re looking for it.
 
I know you’ve already spent a mint on this btw, but if you did want a really dramatic flake refinish it would be worth giving Marty Bell a call.
 
Hello, folks! I have received my body and neck! I think they're really lovely, and I am happy to share pictures.

I have learned a few things I can also share, along with a bit of tragedy . . . .

What I learned:
Candy Yellow is definitely more of a gold in my opinion. Photos are tough, but in person expect something that is a bit of a darker, warmer yellow. The candy sparkles are definitely there and the way I wanted them, but they aren't super flashy the way flake would be. Light colored binding looks great with it.

Pearloid binding looks great, except every once in a while where a weird bit in the pattern comes to the edge and makes a sharp white blob. There's one at the fourth fret that grabs my attention in a bad way. Not complaining though. Love it. Just something to know, Flat white might be a safer choice for a neck for me in the future.

Finally, the $15 charged by warmoth to install bridge posts IS A STEAL. Do it. At least if don't have a lot of experience installing them. I SHOULD HAVE, which leads me to...

The tragedy:
I have never built a tune-o-matic guitar before. So, when a post was so tight I couldn't get it in, I tried to take it back out.... and not in a smart way. So I pretty badly damaged the finish by one of the bridge posts. Several.bad dents and chipped paint. Grown man almost cried. If this happens to you, please go find tricks online for backing them out, as I eventually did, instead of doing it a stupid way.

I would gladly welcome suggestions for ways to cover up or otherwise do something about the dings between the bridge and tailpiece posts and paint chip at the bridge post. Otherwise it'll just be a visible lesson for the years ahead.
View attachment 64656View attachment 64657
How bout a permanent sharpie yellow marker and a smidge of super glue for the ding right by the post?
 
How bout a permanent sharpie yellow marker and a smidge of super glue for the ding right by the post?
I got some nail polish as suggested by someone earlier. I also have several plastic and felt washers I could put around the post to cover it. So I think that chip will be okay. I am much more upset about the dents between the bridge and tailpiece. *sadface*
 
I got some nail polish as suggested by someone earlier. I also have several plastic and felt washers I could put around the post to cover it. So I think that chip will be okay. I am much more upset about the dents between the bridge and tailpiece. *sadface*
ya that is more problematic indeed. Create square tape barrier around ding and eye drop poly in to fill? However the sanding to match may be impossible.
 
Nobody mentioned the wet rag and soldered iron thing, I'm not accredited to describe, never did it, maybe can't because of finish, but somewhere in the back of my universe I recall a technique
 
Nobody mentioned the wet rag and soldered iron thing, I'm not accredited to describe, never did it, maybe can't because of finish, but somewhere in the back of my universe I recall a technique
I think bare wood is required no? Not tried myself either.
 
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