Callaham Hot Rod Bigsby Parts

Verne Bunsen

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I recently stumbled across a reference to Callaham's aftermarket Bigsby parts and was immediately intrigued. I've used their stuff and have always been impressed, and I have enough experience with Bigsbys to be aware of their shortcomings. For instance...

Getting the string ball to stay on the peg while you start the string on the tuning machine:
CB5%201.jpeg


Positioning the front roller so that neither E string ends up in the gap on the end:
CB5%203.jpeg


Discovering only after everything is finally in place and tensioned that one of the ball ends is just barely hanging on to its post:
CB5%202.jpeg


And then there is the sonic impact of putting a Bigsby on, in this case, a Tele. I used to run my Teles with brass saddles, still do on my hardtail, but a Bigsby with brass saddles is just way too mellow for me. No spank. I swapped my Bigsby Tele's to steel saddles and was satisfied with the results. Not all the way back home, enough that I was in my happy place again. 

Fast forward 10 years to me learning about the Callaham parts. They consist of a solid stainless steel front roller with string spacing grooves, a stainless steel string-through main shaft, and a 360 degree swivel arm bracket. They speak of increased frequency response and sustain in addition to frustration-free re-stringing. All of these things I can dig. The parts look like this:
CB5%204.jpeg


I have a lot of changes planned for this particular guitar, my Nashville Tele, but I really wanted to isolate what, if any, effect these parts had on the sound. So I committed to doing that. I put a brand new set of strings on the guitar with the stock Bigsby, just as it's always been, and recorded a couple of clips. One on the bridge pickup (Fralin Tele Blues Special) and one on the neck (Analogman Jim Weider Big T). Both are squeaky clean, as I thought that would best capture the truest sound of the guitar. Here they are, the "Before" clips:

Bridge pickup - Stock B5
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x1sa877xrp3as1o/Bridge%20-%20Stock%20B5.mp3?dl=0

Neck Pickup - Stock B5
https://www.dropbox.com/s/frch86cfep0d2e7/Neck%20-%20Stock%20B5.mp3?dl=0

On to the surgery. First item was the front roller. The axle is released by removing this set screw, then everything slides right out.
CB5%205.jpeg


The old, and the new:
CB5%206.jpeg


CB5%207.jpeg


CB5%208.jpeg


The difference in build quality is unmistakeable. The new axle is a bit larger in diameter than the old one, 0.190" vs 0.180". I had to ream the holes out with a 3/16" drill bit to get it to press in. Very tight fit. The overall diameter of the new roller is also a bit bigger at 0.50" vs the stock 0.438", but the diameter of the inside of the grooves is pretty close at 0.450".

Next up was the main shaft. It's released by removing the arm bracket, which is released by removing this set screw:
CB5%209.jpeg


Tricky part about this one is that the shaft cannot be removed with the string pegs in place.
CB5%2011.jpeg


The pegs came out easily with a pair of pliers. Do be careful not to break them off, as the little nubs are harder to deal with. I did break one, but was able to beat it deeper into the shaft so that it was out of the way. With that done, the shaft slides right out and the new one slides right in.

The arm bracket is removed by removing the spring tension nut and spring. There is a fiber washer between the arm and the bracket and a metal washer between the bracket and the spring, make sure they come along.

edit 1/2017: I have since identified that the Callaham arm brackets are not entirely compatible with the F-Logo B5. See posts further down for details. The arm is however a perfect fit with standard B5 and B7.

CB5%2012.jpeg


And here is one hot rodded F Logo B5.
CB5%2013.jpeg


CB5%2014.jpeg


Frustration-free re-stringing? Check!
CB5%2015.jpeg


No roller gaps and properly spaced strings? Check!
CB5%2016.jpeg


A happy Tele? Check!
CB5%2017.jpeg


So now for the "After" clips. All settings and recording parameters are identical to the first clips, the strings were brand new in both cases, so any and all differences not attributable to variations in my playing are, presumably, the new parts.

Bridge Pickup - Hot Rod B5
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5jv1gog7e6eyxnu/Bridge%20-%20Hot%20Rod%20B5.mp3?dl=0

Neck Pickup - Hot Rod B5
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qaelgbegj4fxg3b/Neck%20-%20Hot%20Rod%20B5.mp3?dl=0

I think the clips capture it pretty well. My head exploded. I expected at most a bit more clarity in the top end, but it's really just more of absolutely everything. The sound has way more body. The biggest (and most overwhelmingly giggle-like-a-school-girl exciting) change was in the attack, the spank is back in full! My Tele sounds more like a Tele than it has in a decade! I wish that I had done some single note stuff in the before/after, because it's really evident there. It really screams in a dirty amp too, so much more attitude! More everything!

I made a couple of sound files which are the "Before" clip followed directly by the "After" clip, I found them useful.

Bridge Pickup - Stock B5 -> Hot Rod B5
https://www.dropbox.com/s/an7u5iy0258v6x8/Bridge%20-%20Stock%20-%3E%20Hot%20Rod.mp3?dl=0

Neck Pickup - Stock B5 -> Hot Rod B5
https://www.dropbox.com/s/soz11dn0e6viy9y/Neck%20-%20Stock%20-%3E%20Hot%20Rod.mp3?dl=0

I bought three sets of these parts, one for this guitar, one for my Tele Special, and one for my Standard Tele (which has yet to receive it's Bigsby, although the Bigsby is sitting on my bench...). Also ordered a Callaham Bigsby Tele bridge for that one. Can't wait to get to those! I've also got an ES-137 with a B5, a Les Paul with a B7, and another Les Paul that will soon be receiving a B7. (I rather like Bigsbys...). I'll be ordering these parts for those as well. As far as I'm concerned, these parts are an absolute no-brainer for every Bigsby. Not necessarily cheap at $130 for all 3 parts, but it's so worth it.
 
That's invaluable information for any Bigsby fan.
The soundclips tell their story loud and clear. Why, you can even see the difference on the soundclip waveshapes. The "after"-clips are louder and ring much longer.

Well done!
 
Nice upgrade. You would think Bigsby would have done those things themselves years ago, as the issues the upgrade addresses resolve complaints from day one of that unit.
 
Logrinn said:
Why, you can even see the difference on the soundclip waveshapes. The "after"-clips are louder and ring much longer.

Well done!

Thanks! I noticed that distinctly as well, I had to go back and re-check my levels to make sure I hadn't accidentally bumped something. There's just "more"!

Cagey said:
Nice upgrade. You would think Bigsby would have done those things themselves years ago, as the issues the upgrade addresses resolve complaints from day one of that unit.

It really is a nice upgrade; it's not all that often in this industry that an after-market part really lives up to its sales pitch. Fun project, too. As for Bigsby tackling this stuff themselves, that was my thought too. I'm sure it's all about the $$$$$$$....
 
Very nice, Verne. A tip of the hat to you, sir!

(Makes me want to get back to my (minor refurb) Tele project.
 
Glimmer said:
Very nice, Verne. A tip of the hat to you, sir!

(Makes me want to get back to my (minor refurb) Tele project.

Why thank you, sir!

I have a great love for many guitars, but my first electric guitar was a Tele and it will always hold a special spot for me. Actually my first two electric guitars were Teles, this one here was number two. Number one was a black 90s MIM Tele Special with the single coil bridge and humbucker in the neck (seen presently in my avatar). I've got some projects planned for it too. I've been very caught up with new guitar projects of late and my old guitars have been a bit neglected. I'm planning to remedy that.
 
Performed these mods on the (non- F-Logo) B5 on my ES-137 tonight, results were just as impressive. "Clarity" was the word on this one. These parts are killer!

The front roller axle went in pretty easily without having to drill the holes out on this one. Not sure if that is a manufacturing tolerance difference between the F-Logo and non-F-Logo B5s? The stock roller assemblies were the same. I'll be doing more of these, so time will tell.
 
In the interest of being thorough, I thought I'd add one last update here. I just installed these parts in the B7 on my GoldTop R7: easy install, big gains. Love it! I hadn't intended it as such, but each of the sets I ordered went into a different model Bigsby: F-Logo B5, Standard B5, B7 (All USA), success all around.
:icon_thumright:
 
Following up with the discovery of an incompatibility with the Callaham arm bracket on an F-Logo Bigsby. It wasn't immediately evident, but I've been fighting tuning stability in the two F-Logo B5 equipped Tele's that I've installed these upgraded parts in. What I've discovered is that the arm bracket on an F-Logo B5 is slightly longer between the shaft hole and the arm mounting hole, to the tune of about 1/8". Doesn't sound like much, but it causes the two faces that compress the spring to be offset which means that the spring travel is crooked. And return-to-zero is compromised.

B5 on the left (Callaham part), F-Logo B5 on the right. Arms attached.
Bigsby%20Arm1.jpeg


Same arrangement, arms removed.
Bigsby%20Arm%202.jpeg


I've done my best to align them so that the difference is visible and accurately portrayed. I've returned these two to the stock arm bracket and all is well. I'm going send them an e-mail with these pictures and make sure they're aware of it.
 
Hm. Wonder what their excuse is gonna be? I wouldn't expect them to make a mistake like that. Machining is their whole thing.
 
It looks like it's almost a 20% increase in length. That would make a significant difference in feel, too. They may not be aware of it yet. I'll bet if you asked them, they'd modify your old arm(s) if you don't have the sander and polisher to do it yourself.
 
Cagey said:
Hm. Wonder what their excuse is gonna be? I wouldn't expect them to make a mistake like that. Machining is their whole thing.

I don't know that it's a mistake so much as an oversight. The Callaham part is spot-on for a standard B5, but the F-Logo B5 (the one with the Fender "F" in place of the Bigsby logo) evidently has a slightly longer arm bracket. Callaham states that their parts are not compatible with "Licensed By" or import models, but the F Logo B5 is official and made in the USA, on the Kalamazoo line. I suspect it's just a variant that wasn't considered. I'll report back when I hear from them.

Rgand said:
It looks like it's almost a 20% increase in length. That would make a significant difference in feel, too. They may not be aware of it yet. I'll bet if you asked them, they'd modify your old arm(s) if you don't have the sander and polisher to do it yourself.

I went as far as putting one of my brackets in the vice and getting out the Dremel, then I thought better of it. I don't want to end up with a hack job that looks like some guy with little-to-no metal working experience (that'd be me) just stuck it in a vice and took the Dremel to it. I've got enough stuff around here that looks like that. I hadn't considered seeing if they would modify my parts. Unfortunately one of the originals has already been disposed of... (I know, I know, never throw away anything, ever...). I happen to have another F-Logo B5 on my shelf waiting to be installed on another Tele so I robbed the arm bracket off of it, but that still leaves me one arm bracket in the hole in the big picture. I had considered consulting with one of our metallurgical wizards here on the forum about the feasibility of making a few....
 
Verne Bunsen said:
I went as far as putting one of my brackets in the vice and getting out the Dremel, then I thought better of it. I don't want to end up with a hack job that looks like some guy with little-to-no metal working experience (that'd be me) just stuck it in a vice and took the Dremel to it. I've got enough stuff around here that looks like that. I hadn't considered seeing if they would modify my parts. Unfortunately one of the originals has already been disposed of... (I know, I know, never throw away anything, ever...). I happen to have another F-Logo B5 on my shelf waiting to be installed on another Tele so I robbed the arm bracket off of it, but that still leaves me one arm bracket in the hole in the big picture. I had considered consulting with one of our metallurgical wizards here on the forum about the feasibility of making a few....
Wise decision. A dremel will get the job done but it may not look as finished as you'd like. Better to let them give it a try. If they aren't aware of the difference, they may appreciate having one of yours on hand to measure dimensions.
 
I heard back from Bill Callaham. He did offer to make the desired modifications to the factory arm brackets, but as  I said I'm short one due to my own short-sightedness so that won't do. I sent him the same pictures that I posted above and he said he suspects that there is enough meat on his bracket to move the shaft hole back as required to achieve proper spacing without having to completely redesign it, so I'm sending him one of my factory arm brackets to take measurements. Then we'll see what it would cost for him to crank a few out for me.

Unlike the standard arm bracket, a factory replacement part for the odd-ball F-Logo bracket just doesn't seem to exist. Which means that for me to replace the one I tossed I'd really have to replace the whole unit to the tune of $175 or so. And I'd still have a Bigsby without an arm. So I'm factoring that into my definition of "affordable" if/when he quotes me a price...

I'll report back as things develop.
 
It's nice if he can simply drill the shaft hole offset in his existing arm design. I expected he would be able to modify the original "F" arms since that can't be more than a half hour job with the right equipment. He'll probably quote you minimum shop rate for it, whatever that happens to be.

This brings up two questions. 1) Did you go with stock B5 springs or get longer ones? 2) Could you help the return-to-zero with an additional nylon washer so you have one both at the top of the spring and underneath it?
 
Rgand said:
It's nice if he can simply drill the shaft hole offset in his existing arm design. I expected he would be able to modify the original "F" arms since that can't be more than a half hour job with the right equipment. He'll probably quote you minimum shop rate for it, whatever that happens to be.

This brings up two questions. 1) Did you go with stock B5 springs or get longer ones? 2) Could you help the return-to-zero with an additional nylon washer so you have one both at the top of the spring and underneath it?

Indeed I'd love to have him just mill my brackets down, but I threw one of them away and replacements don't seem to exist so unfortunately it's not a fix for me. I need at least one new arm, and if he's fabbing one, might as well make it a batch.

As for the other questions, I've done much fiddling with the springs and washers. As a rule, I like the standard 7/8" spring on Gibson 24.75" scale guitars, but I like the 1" spring on Fender 25.5" scale guitars as it makes up for the increased string tension and puts the arm and the action back where I like them. Which is to say, this Tele already had a longer 1" spring. As I was troubleshooting I actually did put the 7/8" spring back in and really didn't find any appreciable change in the geometry or stability. But the arm was back down where I don't like it. I also tried moving the washer to the bottom and found that, given the crooked geometry of the mechanism, raising it up out of the cup only caused the spring to move around more when using the trem.

I think some visual aides are in order. I didn't want to disassemble the one that's currently mounted and strung, so I did a couple of mockups with the one thats off of the body to show whats going on. In these pictures I'm using the 7/8" spring and a washer in the top cup.

This is the original arm. Notice that the spring sits flat in the bottom cup and the arm shaft is generally centered in the top of the spring.
Bigsby%20Arm%203%20Orig.jpeg


This is the aftermarket arm. Notice that the spring is up on its edge in the bottom cup. Not stable at all under use.
Bigsby%20Arm%204%20Cal.jpeg


In order to get the spring sitting flat in the bottom cup, it's basically out of the top cup.
Bigsby%20Arm%204b%20Cal.jpeg
 
I see what you mean, Verne. That shorter arm is definitely a snag. I'll remember that if I go for an 'F' logo B5 at some time in the future. looking forward to hearing what Callaham comes up with.
 
Heard back from Bill Callaham, his conclusion is that the shaft hole would have to be moved back 0.050" to provide proper alignment. He also said he wouldn't be able to look at fabbing anything up until March at the soonest and to check back. For now I reckon I'll stick with the stock arms that I've got and see what develops.
 
I must have missed something here. Are you the first person to buy one of these things? How is he selling them if they don't fit? Didn't the design get tested?
 
From reviews I have read, they work with orig Bigsbys.  There is a disclaimer that they don't work with import (licensed) Bigsbys.  It appears they didn't check it against the 3rd variant of Fender branded Bigsbys.
 
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