Building Basses vs. Building Guitars

[alexreinhold]

So, I have built a few guitars and I'd say I understand the craft. Lately, I've gotten more and more into bass (some of you might have seen my fret buzz newbie thread) and started to think - why not build a bass? After a bit of research, it turned out that bass and guitar are same same but kinda different. So, my question to you is: what are the main caveats to take into account when building a bass vs. a guitar?

PS: I wanted to write down all the things I had already learned but then decided against because I want to keep this open and hear your unbiased opinions.

 

[stratamania]

Captain Obvious: You will need a bigger space to work on the bass.

Commander Detail: What kind of bass do you want to build?

Agony Aunt: Don't worry, fret less.

A lot of them are similar but different considerations to guitars regarding active versus passive, neck widths, number of strings, frets or no frets, lined or unlined, string through the body or top loaded. Graphite versus steel reinforcement rods.

 

[alexreinhold]

I love Captain Obvious. Here's my response to Commander Detail:

• neck: speed neck would be nice; i.e. something unfinished and slim/standard. From what I gathered, nut width seems to play a bigger role with basses. My question: any advice given my requirements?
• wood: am thinking of a bright/punchy sound (neck=maple, body=alder). Aesthetically, I'd like to experiment with Black Korina. My question: does wood affect tone as much/little as on guitar?
• pickups: since I haven't found my identity as a bass player yet, I'd like to keep it versatile and therefore thought about a PJ setup with SD quarter pounders or similar (fully active or incl. a passive switch). Reference tone would be NOT vintage BUT punchy/bright/clean a la Tool, Dug Pinnick (clean), Mike Inez and some of the funk guys. My question: any advice?
• lined/frets: 100% yes on frets. Am wondering though which size I'd prefer: My question: is my guitar go-to a good reference?
• strings: 4, roundwound stainless steal
• string-through/top-loader: on guitars, I definitely prefer sting-through. My question: any reason that should be different with bass?
• rod: graphite rod - just because it seems worth the money

Am I missing anything else? Also, I have a bonus question:

• what makes Wal basses so damn expensive?

 

[mayfly]

The only thing I needed was bigger nut files. I ended up MacGyvering a solution using needle files.

 

[Rick]

I'd like build a six string like the beatles used in Get Back.

 

[TBurst Std]

Hello there.

Keep in mind, weight!
That would keep me away from Blk Korina.

I find either Jazz or P neck widths OK. It seems most prefer Jazz width.
All my necks are maple backed. go with graphite rods.
All my basses are top load. That does offer the flexibility to try tape would or flat wound strings.
Go fretted for now. Get SS frets. Those SS Round Wounds will wear on std frets.
PJ is a fine setup with active/passive switch (keep in mind this is for the preamp, not the pups).
Selecting a preamp - spend some time researching the makes and how many bands you want control of.

So initial thoughts. Feel free to ask more Qs. (I have 7 electric basses, each different)

 

[alexreinhold]

Ah yeah, weight is a factor - any advice to keep it low?

Any reason why you keep your necks maple backed?

Any advice on preamps (I am a complete newbie when it comes to this)? Also wrt to preamp/pickup combinations.?

 

[TBurst Std]

maple backed? Because they are LOL. It’s a lightweight stable wood. All my basses are also store bought.

2 Squire P basses both with maple fretboards. The difference one is sporting flats the other rounds. (I bought 1 with the purpose of flats, but liked it so much with wounds I got another). The flatwound P Bass is one of my gig workhorses

2 Squire J basses. One is Fretless with tape wounds.

A Dingwall 5 string with 3 band active/passive EQ.

A Ric 4003, cause nothing sounds like a Ric ( closest is a J bass)

A Stingray with 2 band active EQ.

This covers almost everything needed. Only things needed are: hollow body and an active short scale. Looking at Hofner and a Chowny SWB Pro to fill those spots.

I’d like to build a 8 string bass, but there are no bridges readily made anymore.

PS: I gig on bass basically weekly.

 

[stratamania]

I prefer the Jazz Bass 1 1/2" nut width for a four-string bass if that helps.

For Black Korina, to address weight concerns as mentioned by @TBurst Std you could go for chambered. Though that of course increases the cost.

On frets, I would say if anything on the basses I have the frets are smaller than on my guitars. I am fine with that, as I am not bending bass strings like I would on a guitar. Though I would probably be okay with various size frets on bass. Unless it was fretless and then unlined but that's me.

You could also take a look at EMGs PJ sets or the TW soap bars and preamp sets.

String through / versus top loader in the end it is preference. Probably debated on bass forums.

Wal basses, reputation, well known players past and present, a waiting list etc. All of those will drive up what the market will pay. And bass players seem to be less shy about shelling out for a good instrument in general, I think.

 

[stratamania]

Actually, a Squier bass is not a bad starting point to experiment and find a voice and preferences. You could mod it and gradually replace parts, or play it as is.

 

[TBurst Std]

I got Squire Classic Vibe series basses and they are gigable out of the case/box

 

[bagman67]

Peavey entry-level basses and guitars are also great platforms for you to start on, cheap and reasonably well built. If your adventures lead to tragedy, it's only $125 to replace the instrument on craigslist or the like.

 

[bagman67]

On frets, I would say if anything on the basses I have the frets are smaller than on my guitars. I am fine with that, as I am not bending bass strings like I would on a guitar.

boom, this - lower, wider frets will give you less obvious-sounding fret-clatter when you change positions or slide. If that's your style, anyway. But if you're a slappin' and poppin' dude, the bigger stainless frets will tend to make that technique ring out more clearly.

 

[stratamania]

I got Squire Classic Vibe series basses and they are gigable out of the case/box

I am sure they are. I have had a Squire bass for years and have done nothing to it other than set up stuff.

My suggestion was for Alex if he wanted to start exploring something as a potential modding platform rather than going full custom from the start, a Squier is also a good starting point for that per the topic of the thread.

 

[NedRyerson]

I like this topic. Despite having been a bass player for decades, I haven't built one yet. My friend wants me to build him a 5-string (I sold him on the virtues and versatility of a 5er ), so before I do that, I want to build a 5 for myself (after I convert one of my existing 5s to an 8, that is).

 

[mayfly]

Chiming in with more thoughts: Regarding fret size, my bass player has used rotosound rounds (swing bass set) for decades. Her two basses (Fender Jazz, and Warmoth Jazz) both have small frets. I just checked - there is no discernible fret wear on either instrument.

 

[TBurst Std]

I like this topic. Despite having been a bass player for decades, I haven't built one yet. My friend wants me to build him a 5-string (I sold him on the virtues and versatility of a 5er ), so before I do that, I want to build a 5 for myself (after I convert one of my existing 5s to an 8, that is).

Let me know what 8 string bridge you find

 

[Spud]

I like this topic. Despite having been a bass player for decades, I haven't built one yet. My friend wants me to build him a 5-string (I sold him on the virtues and versatility of a 5er ), so before I do that, I want to build a 5 for myself (after I convert one of my existing 5s to an 8, that is).

Are you still running everything through a Fender Champion SS amp?

 

[mayfly]

Ah yeah, weight is a factor - any advice to keep it low?

Any reason why you keep your necks maple backed?

Any advice on preamps (I am a complete newbie when it comes to this)? Also wrt to preamp/pickup combinations.?

Regarding weight:
For the Warmoth Jazz bass that I built for my bass player, I pulled a super-lightweight body from the showcase. I also used HipShot ultralight tuning machines, which saved something like a pound. Back when this bass was made, Warmoth did not have carbon fibre bass neck stiffening rods - they were all steel. Doing that would have saved more weight; you should probably do it.

Reasons to keep Maple backed:
Well, the main reason is cost I guess. That and weight of some of the exotics can be, well, weighty

Preamps:
Sorry - no advice here. I used passive pickups (Lollar) with stock wiring. She gets a great tone with the pure passive setup; we never felt any reason to change.

 

[TBurst Std]

For preamps, look at the site Best Bass gear.
When I was considering a 5 string Gecko build, I was considering Aguilar, John East and Nordstrand preamps