Best Frets For 80's / Sunset Strip / Shred

[Freakoftheweek75]

Hi everyone!

My Strat build is going to be geared towards the 80's portion of my band's sets. It's basically going to be a Wizard Neck profile, 24 fret, low string action, built for speed, etc.

I'm not really a hardware guru so my question is, it seems in my mind smaller frets (I have pretty average sized hands) seem in theory the way to go, as it seems there would be more speed that way and less resistance. However, all of the specs that I've read from past 80's guitar guys all seemed to prefer jumbo frets.

Again, mind you, I don't have freakishly long alien fingers like Vai, Gilbert, or DeMartini.

Any advice would be much appreciated. Tone comes before comfort, obviously but just wanting some input.

Thanks!

 

[Rick]

Whatever you pick I recommend stainless.

 

[Vulpez]

I like smaller frets myself.

Not sure why extra jumbo is the go-to on so many shred guitars, but I never liked it. You ideally want something tall to make bending easier, but I'm like you, my hands aren't super big.

If I'm making a shred instrument, ideally I'd choose the 6105 wire. And yes, if you've got a choice, go stainless steel. Basically, what Eddie puts on his Wolfgangs, which is one of the better shred necks I've ever played.

 

[TBurst Std]

Why would taller or wider frets require longer fingers ask yourself.
Larger frets allow a for a lighter touch, which when accomplished should be quicker.

Remember you are only pressing the string to the fret, not the fretboard.  If the fretboard is encountered, that’s just extra friction.

Once that lighter touch is accomplished also bends etc will be more fluid.

Choose what you want but hand size or finger length should not be a consideration in fret size.

 

[Freakoftheweek75]

Excellent points.

I guess in my mind, I was thinking of some of the stretchier chords or scale runs... where my pinky is almost just not quite hitting the note hard enough, or not pressing down solidly causing a little bit of the note to "fret out" I was worried that taller frets would make me have to press down harder. Sounds to me like I had that completely backwards.

Some days you wouldn't know that I've been doing this for 30 years.  :icon_scratch:

Why would taller or wider frets require longer fingers ask yourself.
Larger frets allow a for a lighter touch, which when accomplished should be quicker.

Remember you are only pressing the string to the fret, not the fretboard.  If the fretboard is encountered, that’s just extra friction.

Once that lighter touch is accomplished also bends etc will be more fluid.

Choose what you want but hand size or finger length should not be a consideration in fret size.

 

[TheGreatRedDragon]

For my 80s-style Strat I went with 6100SS frets and I was not disappointed. Bending, hammer-ons/pull-offs and tapping are all much easier on that guitar than they are on guitars with small frets. It just feels natural.

 

[Cagey]

Some guys even scallop the fretboard between frets to make them seem taller than they actually are. Tall frets are made for speed and a light touch. Make the frets stainless and they'll play even faster. Finally, don't scrimp on the setup. Get those things properly leveled, crowned, dressed and polished, even on a new guitar/neck.

The only downside, if you can even call it that, is if you have a tendency to manhandle the neck when chording. You can throw one or two notes sharp, which of course always sounds bad. But, it takes no time at all to learn to lighten up.

 

[jay4321]

A lighter touch is key to the larger frets (and the shred approach in general). I use a mix of standard and 6100s and they all work fine though. I did have an aftermarket neck with tiny frets once and it was just not for me. I could play it like I can any guitar but it didn’t feel right I pulled them less then a month later.

All that said, you have try stuff. There’s definitely a lot of “bigger is better” chatter when it comes to frets (and string gauges, and neck profiles) but you really just have to get your hands on.

And 30 years isn’t enough time. I’m in that long and only just became familiar with the Wolfgang neck profile.

 

[MikeW]

I build and set up all my necks just the way you're describing, and I've found that I like SS6105 frets (narrow and tall wire) the best rather than the extra-wide jumbos. With the caveat that I do have just those types of hands (wide palms, long and narrow fingers), I find that the narrower fret allows me to get my fingers in between the frets a little better up high.

As Rick and others have suggested, once you've gone stainless, you'll never go back. They're a far superior fretwire, even if not totally leveled and polished.

One last recommendation, I'd also look into Roasted Maple as the neck shaft. The shred covers we do seem to like the bridge JB and Maple or Roasted Maple to really nail that 80's/shred tone.

 

[rauchman]

I built a Warmoth Tele last summer using their roasted maple, 10-16" compound radius, Wolfgang profile and SS6115 frets.  First time using any of these variables.

For shred type stuff, I find the 6115's ideal.  A little narrower than the 6100's, but have the height, almost scalloped'ish in feel.  The peak of the fret is almost like a pyramid.  Especially on the higher frets, I've experienced the 6100's to almost feel like the room between frets is really small.  With the 6115's, I don't experience this.  I can pull a note sharp if I press too hard, definitely requires a little touch, or at least, not mashing the frets.  The only downside I've experienced with these, is when running / sliding up a/down a string, I can feel the bumping of the frets, vs on my Les Paul which uses much lower flatter frets, I don't notice the frets....feels very bumpy vs smooth.  Not a huge deal, but worth mentioning.

As a side note, the Wolfgang profile is nice.  Meatier on the thumb side (I guess this is in the range of the 59 Roundback?) and thinner on the finger side (standard thin?).  Makes placing the thumb in the center behind the neck feel intuitive.  I haven't tried any other profiles from Warmoth, but I would get this profile again.